DC power routing question. (1 Viewer)

[BackroadTrail]

I added a circuit-breaker (passenger side, rear engine-bay) to the auxiliary battery and a weather-proof connector in the grill. I want to add a connector in the cargo area for miscellaneous and an identical weatherproof connector near the trailer connector. I am curious if anyone who has wired to those locations might have some cable routing suggestions.

 

[CharlieS]

Yes. I ran them through the rubber grommet in the firewall into the passenger cabin, inside the sill trim, and behind the interior trim panels to the back where I had a fuse panel/distribution box. From the cargo area, there is a grommet in the floor you can route out to the bumper. Some people run large gauge wires underneath along the frame rails, I never got around to that.

 

[619TOY]

The kick panel and front/rear door sills are really easy to remove, but the “B” pillar trim is a little more difficult and the rear cargo area trim is substantially more work than that. You can get by just tucking and poking the wire under the “B” pillar trim and cargo area trim if you prefer. I know from experience you can fit at least a 6AWG cable following that path if you prefer the easier route.

 

[BackroadTrail]

The kick panel and front/rear door sills are really easy to remove, but the “B” pillar trim is a little more difficult and the rear cargo area trim is substantially more work than that. You can get by just tucking and poking the wire under the “B” pillar trim and cargo area trim if you prefer. I know from experience you can fit at least a 6AWG cable following that path if you prefer the easier route.

I’ll give that a try, 6AWG is what I was thinking.

 

[BackroadTrail]

Thank you for the replies; you were a huge help! Here is how it turned out. I'll hang a weatherproof pigtail from the loose connector and out the bottom tailgate gap to connect the trailer.

 

[CharlieS]

What make/brand of cargo barrier is that?

 

[BackroadTrail]

What make/brand of cargo barrier is that?

It is the ARB barrier that goes with their drawer system.

 

[cboyd]

Any reason you didn’t use the negative ground points inside of the fuse block, instead tapping the buss bar?

Edit: disregard, that looks like the shunt for the meter... sorry