Dash Knobs...who's got them?

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Updates! We have in the cooker, all 3 different styler knobs getting made right now that are designed to replace a mid 70's -79dash.
the Headlight style
the heater style
and the hazzard style.
these come with new switch to dash holding screws as well


Sarge the laser etching is lifetime. Its burned into the anodizing!


We will start selling these in 3-4 weeks

Pricing is 38$ per knob, finished with etching and holding screws


Justin

Good stuff! Can you also make a version of the headlight style knob with yellow graphics? That way you'll have the much sought after fog light knob also (see below).
One more thing that would be really nice to have is the nut that goes behind the headlight knob. These are getting pretty hard to find even though it's not been discontinued.

fog-switch0010-jpg.1044535
 
Those bottom items are the bezel "nuts" used to attach the switches to the dash.
I wonder if that's included also?
 
Alex,

Last time I checked those aluminum bezel nuts were $11 each at the dealers.
The OEM ones have a plastic bushing insert that snaps into an internal groove in the nut, to guide the switch shaft--harder than the dickens to get that insert out without damaging it. Earlier style switches use a more typical very thin notched round nut on an externally threaded switch shaft housing, and the earliest switches use a very cool larger diameter knurled nut.

So, depending upon the style of switch, the above bezel nuts may not be needed in all applications as long as the tapped knobs accept the threaded switch shafts.

I'm waiting to hear from the first buyers of these to hear their feedback and see them installed. Certainly is a nice upgrade for folks like me who despise plastics. I wish the suggested laser etching were much deeper so that the etched lettering or symbols could be filled with paint or be enamelled--probably would need some machining to do that, don't know the process.
 
Alex,

Last time I checked those aluminum bezel nuts were $11 each at the dealers.
The OEM ones have a plastic bushing insert that snaps into an internal groove in the nut, to guide the switch shaft--harder than the dickens to get that insert out without damaging it. Earlier style switches use a more typical very thin notched round nut on an externally threaded switch shaft housing, and the earliest switches use a very cool larger diameter knurled nut.

So, depending upon the style of switch, the above bezel nuts may not be needed in all applications as long as the tapped knobs accept the threaded switch shafts.

That's very keenly observant of you. I never noticed the plastic insert until you mentioned it. However, I don't quite get why it may not be needed. Without this nut, there is nothing for the knob to latch onto. I'd like to know whether the repro will have the plastic insert or not.

I recently bought a couple of these nuts for exactly $11 each. I wanted a few more to keep, but the dealer said that's all they've got. I have a feeling there aren't a whole lot of these left in inventory, so I hope the above vendor would make these.

Picture2.webp
 
Racer
When you peer into the bezel nut, you can see that some effort was made by the Japanese engineers to have a plastic bushing in there--would be much simpler to not have done that. So, I believe there must be a sound reason, but they never called and told me their reasoning.

Looks like they wanted it to rotate in there rather than be fixed, so.................

You know, they don't HAVE to be made of aluminum; steel, brass, or even plastic would work to cinch down the switch--plastic cast would accomplish both purposes, and not have to be $11--but I'm no fabricator, so just talking out my........well, you know.
 
Alright gents, we have our first batch out of the oven!

So I am going to do a Mud sale on our web site for what you need. There are different billet switch to dash nuts (sheet metal dash/ aluminum dash) Knobs are based off the mid 70's era. They are slightly different for a reason. With that said you can choose the backing nut style and knob of choice. We will be able to do custom etching soon. First I want to get these going before we get out of hand so…The MUD discount code will be ILVMYKNOBS

I should be able to get all the knobs up on the site and ready to go here today.

We are already working on early 70's, late 60's and 80's era stuff

http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/...knobs/20150416_111256_resized_zps51lufir8.jpg
 
@RLMS If you post the photbucket IMG link , the pictures will show up here.

 
I don's see the cowl vent pull knob in the redline set. Anyone know where to source one of those?
 
I'd call them. I have had them on my 40 for 3 years at least and still very happy with them. This reminds me I need to clean up the dash pad where I cut it for the light. I didnt get the yellow light switch from him, bout the whole assembly elsewhere to run my fog lights. The Ball is for a RAM mount for my GPS
DSC01700.webp
 
That's very keenly observant of you. I never noticed the plastic insert until you mentioned it. However, I don't quite get why it may not be needed. Without this nut, there is nothing for the knob to latch onto. I'd like to know whether the repro will have the plastic insert or not.

I recently bought a couple of these nuts for exactly $11 each. I wanted a few more to keep, but the dealer said that's all they've got. I have a feeling there aren't a whole lot of these left in inventory, so I hope the above vendor would make these.

View attachment 1047865
 
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