Dangerous brake lockup on highway

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Joined
Jul 1, 2007
Threads
84
Messages
899
Location
Erie, Co
Going up the mountain this week our trusted 100 locked up one or both of the right wheels and cut the acceleration making it very hard to control. Did this same thing coming back down the mountain on the highway. During the lockup there is a lot of beeping and what looks like a traction control light for a few seconds. There was no inclement weather and I wasn't even turning either time, just straight on 80 mph driving.

I've done a little research and it sounds like this is possibly due to a bad steering rack. I have an appointment to get that checked out next week, but is there anything I can do in the meantime to help it? Pull a fuse so it doesn't happen again? Are there other culprits that could be causing this that I should look into in the meantime, or any recalls regarding this issue?
 
I had to replace the rack (and more than one set of underwear) to get it to stop doing that. It happened to me when I was in SW Colorado a few years ago. The roads had patchy ice and I let loose with some colorful words when it happened to me the first time (in a corner at the turnoff to Silverton. Down here in warm weather the worst thing that would happen is it would kick the cruise control off.
 
Ha, I completely understand the colorful language. I'm certain it would not have remained on the road if it were slick and did what it did this weekend. As it is, the truck wants to dart over to the right three lanes in about a second, so I'm a little wary of it happening again, especially being this is my wife's daily. I'll update this post once I get it solved. Anyone aware of a fuse that could be pulled until I can get it fixed to keep this from happening?
 
Interesting there is no fail-safe for this condition- it sounds flipping dangerous.

If you can get a proper diagnosis from the dealer, I would report to the NTSB- definitely sounds like Toyota needs a software update.
 
Could this an ATRAC related problem?
 
Have not seen it show here as an ATRAC issue. The causes of this type of behavior have been, steering rack, wheel speed sensors, yaw sensor.
 
Wheel bearing adjustment fixed mine, lockup was really bad before sometimes just beeping with light. Will still do it once in a blue moon now but next is sway bar bushings as mine are sloppy an the truck rolls around a lot.
Also make sure your zero point calibration and yaw sensor clearing is done so it knows straight is straight!
 
I'd not drive over ~15 MPH unless ABS deactivated, until issue corrected.

In old 100's if a wheel speed sensors goes bad (no single) ABS systems shuts down. Brakes work fine just no ABS. Newer systems may put engine into limp mode and set off brake alarms IDK. You could try pulling, say, the 50AMP ABS #1 fuse, see what happens. Or just disconnect one wheel speed sensor, like the front PS would be easy speed sensor to get to. Then if brakes works, it will be fine to drive until issue found and fixed.

Good luck and be safe.
 
Unplug the abs module on the side of the pump. Dash lights up, kills atrac and abs.
 
From my reading here on Mud I'm with @2001LC. Seems like bad speed sensors tend to cause this type of scenario.
 
A 'bad' wheel speed sensor can be due to an increase in reluctor ring gap from worn/out of adjustment wheel bearings. As you turn and load is shifted, the wheel will shift in or out opening or closing the sensor gap and wreaking havoc on the signal if the bearings are sloppy. Check the entire front end carefully for play.
 
To be clear I was only offering possible way to disable system, I was not speaking as to cause.
 
Sorry was referring to OG 91 LC post.
 
Def let us know.
 
I almost pooped my pants the first time my wheel locked up on a banked curve in the truck.

I spent the next three weeks trying to get the #$$@ dongle talking to #@$#@$ windows 9 on my lady's #@$@# laptop before finding out that:

1) Holy crap these cars put out a lot of data. Just graphing wheel speeds vs vehicle speeds on two gyro's is pretty insane for 2000.
2) ABS Wheel sensors, unless you're in a climate with severe corrosion, are a good place to look but won't lock the wheel that way - they'd show a fail on the system diagnostics first (in most cases)
3) A very specific S-curve where you go through an entire motion was enough to engage the alarm any time, and at over 45MPH get a wheel lock
4) if your vehicle thinks it's going to crash, it will engage the wheel it thinks will keep you from crashing.
5) this may feel like it's trying to kill you, but in most cases, would only decelerate you and get you off the road.
6) It's still scary as #@$@#.
7) Used car dealers lie through their teeth. This issue was being masked by the dip**** dropping the torsion bars to the bump stops, which also hid the tears in the CV boots, the alignment issues, etc as the car had 90% of its weight on the front end.
8) How's your cruise control? I'd get intermittent disengagements of the Cruise on the highway (at odd times) without triggering an alarm
9) TO the best of my knowledge, these issues are NEVEr recorded in Codes for a dealer, etc, and unless you find the S-Curve that will trigger, almost impossible to replicate


To Diagnose:
Get proper tires, or at least properly inflated tires on all 4 corners. Preferably the same tire.
Get it aligned. Trying to diagnose something with the steering without an alignment is silly.
Put front end up in the air (isn't it cool that there's a cup for a floor jack in between the front axles?)
Put jacks under the frame and lock it in the air. Don't ever crawl under your rig while it's on a floor pump jack!

Shake those wheels. If it's moving up and down, think bearing etc.. If it's moving left and right, think tie rods.
My steering rack bushings probably need replaced, but the tie rod ends were horrible.
Climb under (after blocking the front end up in the air, not just with the jack)
Inspect.
Took a lot of diagnosing, but in the end it's usually simple things.

I Replaced Tie Rod Ends (inner and outer) problem was gone.
Next time it happened (beeping warning) I was getting on a highway. No lockup, but 3 miles later, the front passenger tire blew. Even in 2000, this truck knew when something wasn't right with the wheel balance and gyro.

New CV's, New BFG K02 285's on the factory 16's, a 4-year alignment special at Pep boys that I do every time I rotate the tires and it drives like this:
 

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