DanBL's FJ60 Repair Journey. (11 Viewers)

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Joined
Sep 17, 2025
Threads
3
Messages
16
Location
Ferndale, WA
9-14-2025



I drove my FJ60 back home after purchase. In hindsight, I should have brought a trailer. Things started well even if I had to pump the clutch a little. Leaving my foot in the right position alleviated this. I wanted to see what would happen during the 100 mile drive.



The first observations were at the gas station. We were on a slight incline and the FJ didn’t roll. I’d noticed earlier that the hand brake was not working. Turns out, the bell cranks were frozen. Anyhow, with a slight nudge, the rig began to roll on it’s own. Also, the brake lights didn’t work but we had a chase vehicle. We kept going.
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We made It to the next town and stopped to eat and buy a fire extinguisher. A P.O. had replaced the carb. with a Weber 36 and poorly installed an electric fuel pump and regulator. I figured the fire extinguisher was prudent.



A little further on, the temperature gauge began to creep up and we stopped at a park to let her cool down. I shut her down and she dieseled for a while before gasping and expiring. After a while, I removed the goose neck thinking I would run her wide open. The thermostat was already gone. She was running rusty water but didn’t loose much. I added straight coolant and we resumed. We took it easy on secondary roads.



The next problem was the charging system. We pulled into the next town on reserve power. By this time we were 20 minutes from home and I inquired about an alternator. No luck. I purchased a battery and we drove home on reserve power. Turns out, the alternator may be OK.



We pulled onto our street and I noticed the brakes had gone soft but still worked. I got it parked and climbed out, chuckling and relieved to have gotten away with it.

More to follow.
 
9-14-2025



I drove my FJ60 back home after purchase. In hindsight, I should have brought a trailer. Things started well even if I had to pump the clutch a little. Leaving my foot in the right position alleviated this. I wanted to see what would happen during the 100 mile drive.



The first observations were at the gas station. We were on a slight incline and the FJ didn’t roll. I’d noticed earlier that the hand brake was not working. Turns out, the bell cranks were frozen. Anyhow, with a slight nudge, the rig began to roll on it’s own. Also, the brake lights didn’t work but we had a chase vehicle. We kept going.
View attachment 3997662


We made It to the next town and stopped to eat and buy a fire extinguisher. A P.O. had replaced the carb. with a Weber 36 and poorly installed an electric fuel pump and regulator. I figured the fire extinguisher was prudent.



A little further on, the temperature gauge began to creep up and we stopped at a park to let her cool down. I shut her down and she dieseled for a while before gasping and expiring. After a while, I removed the goose neck thinking I would run her wide open. The thermostat was already gone. She was running rusty water but didn’t loose much. I added straight coolant and we resumed. We took it easy on secondary roads.



The next problem was the charging system. We pulled into the next town on reserve power. By this time we were 20 minutes from home and I inquired about an alternator. No luck. I purchased a battery and we drove home on reserve power. Turns out, the alternator may be OK.



We pulled onto our street and I noticed the brakes had gone soft but still worked. I got it parked and climbed out, chuckling and relieved to have gotten away with it.

More to follow.
I’d call that a success!
 
9-20-2025



A brief survey of the FJ60:



-The alternator and power steering pump have been poorly modified to run in different positions off the fan pulley after a poorly executed smog delete. Also, the P/S pump is a Saginaw thrown in with a bracket machined by hack saw, hand drill, side grinder, hammer and vise.
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-She’s not charging



-The hand brake had been applied and the bell cranks froze that way.



- She heats up at highway speed.



-No thermostat.



-Diesels after warm-up when shut down.



-No muffler.



-No lift except what’s afforded by an Old Man Emu suspension. Running 35’s at purchase and they’re much too big and rubbing in the back when flexed.



-No spare.



-Bottom of tailgate rusted out. The rest of body and frame is mostly clean (why I bought it).



The plan is to get the rear brakes repaired and to order a used Toyota P/S pump and hardware as well as a smog pump delete pulley. As my driveway is sloped, a hand brake is necessary for positioning to remove the engine. I also ordered a used Toyota distributor and battery tray.
 
9-22-2025



Completed the rear brakes and freed the the bell cranks. I used an ultra-sonic cleaner and strait SuperClean solution on the bell cranks. They were still frozen afterwards so I let them soak for a day in penetrating oil. I then had to tap them with a hammer and delrin drift. Eventually, I freed them up. I applied some chain and bushing lube, then an overcoat of fluid film.
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The dieseling is because of the Weber; it has no idle-stop solenoid like the OE carb. An aftermarket 61012 clone will solve the issue, or a rebuilt stock carb is best if you want to retain the High Altitude Compensator function.

What year FJ60 is this? Is there a brake booster?

Anti-seize the bell cranks and the self-adjusters for longevity.

Nice start and Good luck!
 
The dieseling is because of the Weber; it has no idle-stop solenoid like the OE carb. An aftermarket 61012 clone will solve the issue, or a rebuilt stock carb is best if you want to retain the High Altitude Compensator function.

What year FJ60 is this? Is there a brake booster?

Anti-seize the bell cranks and the self-adjusters for longevity.

Nice start and Good luck!
Hey, Spike Strip thanks for the carb info. This is why I'm sharing this stuff with y'all. The year is 1984. It does have a brake booster and I wasn't aware that the master cylinder was incorrect. I'll look into it.
 
And it begins, the endless sojourn in caverns of the toyotally insane, don't know if you've already got the official welcome so here's one for ya :flipoff2:
60 don't look too bad. Re: your e-brake stuff, @cruiseroutfit can hook you up for i believe any parts you might need , did for me anyway. My bell cranks were frozen opposite yours, popped em off, tossed them into atf for about a week. Then gently started to work them forth n back with an 8oz hammer n a little bit of heat.
May the mechanical deities smile upon your project
 
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And it begins, the endless sojourn in caverns of the toyotally insane, don't know if you've already got the official welcome so here's one for ya :flipoff2:
60 don't look too bad. Re: your e-brake stuff, @cruiserout can hook you up for i believe any parts you might need , did for me anyway. My bell cranks were frozen opposite yours, popped em off, tossed them into atf for about a week. Then gently started to work them forth n back with an 8oz hammer n a little bit of heat.
May the mechanical deities smile upon your project
Annd, i was late
 
The Master may just be an aftermarket equivalent, but it looks like off an early 4Runner or pickup, to me. Not sure.

Anyway, the OEM Advics is still available (rockauto) BMT022 Same as in a Toyota box, if you find you need to replace.
 
9-23-2025



Regarding the charging situation:



The alternator may or may not be inoperable. I decided to start with the wiring harness.



I inspected the wiring harness and zeroed in on the fusible link. The red wire had been replaced with 18AWG automotive wiring and all the pins and crimps were very dirty and somewhat corroded. The green wires appear to be original.



The subbed red wire is not plated and has standard insulation. The insulator emitted lots of smoke at 400C. The original green wires have thick insulation and emit very little smoke and remain relatively intact when exposed to 400C. I’ve ordered pins, sockets, seals, fusible link wire (18 and 20AWG) and PET expandable shielding. I’ll share stock numbers and suppliers when I get my hands on the parts. I want to make sure they’re correct.
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And it begins, the endless sojourn in caverns of the toyotally insane, don't know if you've already got the official welcome so here's one for ya :flipoff2:
60 don't look too bad. Re: your e-brake stuff, @cruiseroutfit can hook you up for i believe any parts you might need , did for me anyway. My bell cranks were frozen opposite yours, popped em off, tossed them into atf for about a week. Then gently started to work them forth n back with an 8oz hammer n a little bit of heat.
May the mechanical deities smile upon your project
Thanks, kirvesmies. For the welcome and the advice. Everything helps. I've been doing mechanic stuff all my life but learn something new every day. Posting and conversing here is like having advisers in my pocket and I'm grateful.
 
The Master may just be an aftermarket equivalent, but it looks like off an early 4Runner or pickup, to me. Not sure.

Anyway, the OEM Advics is still available (rockauto) BMT022 Same as in a Toyota box, if you find you need to replace.
Thanks for the info. I use rockauto a lot. One thing I learned about them is to order a long list of things and try to make sure its all coming from the same warehouse because of shipping charges. Thanks for the part number.
 
Ooh nooo, don't let the smoke out!!! Yeah, for the biggest part it's a good group. Good analogy, advisers in your pocket. Wait till the voices in your head start arguing with them:slap:
 
9-23-2025

I think the next step is to pull the engine. She runs but I need to have a look at the internals so that I can get the crying over with and move on. Besides, she puking oil from the rear main.

More to follow (in a few days?).
 
Or just pop the clutch.

Did you happen to get the stock carb with the truck? There are also cheap clones on Amazon for $100 that are hit and miss, but when they work, they work well as they're designed for this exact engine.

But if you don't have the throttle linkage either, it can be difficult and expensive to find..at that point, webah is path of least resistance
 

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