Dana 60 for an 80...

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Ok, so I'm lazy... I'm looking a passenger side diff Dana 60 axle for my 80 series... what year, make, model, etc... should I be looking for? And I know NOTHING about Dana series axles... so talk to me like I'm uneducated. ( but not stupid )
 
I KEEP BREAKING BIRFS...

I'm going UP in tire size (read 39's) and I KNOW I'm gonna break more birfs. (just ask Christo).

So... I'm looking something stronger, and although All-Pro has that pretty axle w/ an 80 3rd in it, it's not wide enough... hence the origin of my post!
 
Phil, perhaps the "Hardcore Corner" is not for you....





Chevy or dodge front Dana 60.
Ford will be Driver side drop

Pretty much 78ish through like 92 (I believe) for chevy
Dodge still uses D60's

1 ton or some Heavy duty 3/4 ton axles.

Mid 80'sish chevy are best. linkpins and larger axle shafts. Additionally you will want to upgrade the stub shafts to 35 spline.


There is info on the board (tech links) that will help you a lot

Are you planning on using the stock suspension or creating a much different lift?
 
WolfpackTLC said:
I KEEP BREAKING BIRFS...

I'm going UP in tire size (read 39's) and I KNOW I'm gonna break more birfs. (just ask Christo).

So... I'm looking something stronger, and although All-Pro has that pretty axle w/ an 80 3rd in it, it's not wide enough... hence the origin of my post!

My bad I was thinking rear axle :confused:
 
Last edited:
I dunno... I have another axle on the ground already that I can use to just duplicate mounting points, links, etc... but I was thinking a three link instead. Depends on the weight difference of the D60 vs. my 80 series front axle.

Thanks for the info on the axles! That just accelerated my curve tremendously! So the stub shafts = birfs, but I'm not sure what kingpins are.. unless you mean the guy from Spiderman. Hah!
 
93 last yr for dodge d60 with kingpins and pass drop, after that they go drivers side unit bearings, funny center disconnect, CRAP.

strongly suggest kingpin style.
 
Have you thought about sending a set of your birfs to bobby long for his treatment? Also how are you breaking so many 80 birfs, shock loading them, turning and backing up, steering stops not set out far enough? The 80 birf dwarfs ours but I know your truck weighs a LOT more. Just wondering how you are breaking so many. I only wheel with one 80 guy and he has only broken his original and that was probably due to wear more than anything else.

A D60 is just going to move your failure point somewhere else. The question is where will that be on an 80, the transfer case output? If so, ouch.
 
True a D60 should move the failure point somewhere else, but that's the point, to have a front axle that is bullet-proof, so you can concentrate on something else, hopefully a driveshaft instead of a t/c output shaft, which I think is what would happen, the t/c shafts on an 80 are not small.

However I wouldn't consider a D60 bulletproof, I have seen several break on vehicles weighing less than an 80 and with around 38-40" tires, and not 'on it', just churning away with lots of traction on rocks. For a real bulletproof setup I think you'd have to have DynaTrack build something but then you have probably $6K in just that axle, but it'll be bulletproof.

The mini-truck birfs are freakishly strong for their size! Either that or the 80 is freakishly heavy for it's size... :flipoff2: :)
 
I've heard GREAT things about Bobby Long's new min-truck axles, including the fact that they're breaking chromo inners... WOW.

He's treated the birfs that are currently in my rig, and they're fine.

My steering stops are set correctly. TRUST ME. I went round and round with a zillion people about correct setup.

I'm killing the BELL in the CV Unlimited's, and I'm killing the inner cage in the OEM's.

Not a lot of shock loading, mainly just locked front turned going up a rock w/ LOT's of traction... And my 80 is 1500 lbs or so heavier than a " normal " 80.

I'm guessing w/ good shafts, good u-joints, and a strong r&p setup, that my failure point will be my d-shaft. I'm good w/ that. I'd rather have my d-shaft be my fusible link.. I can change one of those in 10 minutes...
 
mabrodis said:
True a D60 should move the failure point somewhere else, but that's the point, to have a front axle that is bullet-proof, so you can concentrate on something else, hopefully a driveshaft instead of a t/c output shaft, which I think is what would happen, the t/c shafts on an 80 are not small.

However I wouldn't consider a D60 bulletproof, I have seen several break on vehicles weighing less than an 80 and with around 38-40" tires, and not 'on it', just churning away with lots of traction on rocks. For a real bulletproof setup I think you'd have to have DynaTrack build something but then you have probably $6K in just that axle, but it'll be bulletproof.

The mini-truck birfs are freakishly strong for their size! Either that or the 80 is freakishly heavy for it's size... :flipoff2: :)

You can have a very nice D60 front axle built without using any of the dynarape parts. Plenty of aftermarket parts for axles, knuckles, inner C, bearing hubs and center sections.
 
If you think Dynarape makes great axles, just read this post. I don't see anything special of a Dynarape axle compared to other axles you can build using custom parts.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=279819

Disclaimer: not affliated with any vendor or Dynarape
 

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