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I'm starting to think I could install this contraption in the next week or two. Oil drain is the last hangup...
You will probably be tweaking your nipples before me then!

That trotac piece in the first pic looks an awful lot like what they use on marine diesel stoves for chimneys...

Which I guess is pretty much the same thing 🤣

Could be I’m sure they use this stuff for all kinds of exhaust applications.

This is the type I believe will hold up the longest, this piece pictured here has been on the cruiser for 7 years, approximately 45,000k. It’s spiral wrapped and linked so it doesn’t leak but still has good flex.
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And this is the cheeper type that doesn’t flex as well. I have only run this type for two years so I can’t say if it’s good or not yet.
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Take the oil pan off and do it right. I believe 0.125" should do the oil feed line just right.
 
Its always super exciting building your own hybrid turbo setup. Now I want to do my Bj40 but reluctant to turbo a B engine.
 
Take the oil pan off and do it right. I believe 0.125" should do the oil feed line just right.
I could do that and I still might, when I go out today I'll be grabbing some hose etc, and getting enough to reach the pan. Just cuz.

But when there's dozens driving around with the drain in the side cover that seems pretty easy by comparison.

And hell some get away with using the banjo drain for the alt, but I'm guessing their oil supply is very restricted.
 
As I have.
But when there's dozens driving around with the drain in the side cover that seems pretty easy by comparison.

And hell some get away with using the banjo drain for the alt, but I'm guessing their oil supply is very restricted.

That banjo drain I used for the alternator vacuum pump return is a strait shot into the block right above the open oil pan. Also that banjo is directly below the turbo drain so your short strait vertical pipe should drain well.
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If you still don’t like that banjo idea definitely go side cover over the oil pan. Oil pan is down low so you will have longer pipe with more bends to drain also if you try to keep it somewhat vertical it will be right in the way for oil filter changes but more importantly it’s low! Where it could and has happened to me a flicked up stick can cause damage there and strand you in the woods.

I just didn’t like the side cover idea because it’s so thin to weld and with all the stamped ripples to strengthen that tin it doesn’t have a decent flat section for a bulkhead fitting. Plus you start messing with those side covers and they will drip forever after.
 
As I have.


That banjo drain I used for the alternator vacuum pump return is a strait shot into the block right above the open oil pan. Also that banjo is directly below the turbo drain so your short strait vertical pipe should drain well. View attachment 3350572View attachment 3350573

If you still don’t like that banjo idea definitely go side cover over the oil pan. Oil pan is down low so you will have longer pipe with more bends to drain also if you try to keep it somewhat vertical it will be right in the way for oil filter changes but more importantly it’s low! Where it could and has happened to me a flicked up stick can cause damage there and strand you in the woods.

I just didn’t like the side cover idea because it’s so thin to weld and with all the stamped ripples to strengthen that tin it doesn’t have a decent flat section for a bulkhead fitting. Plus you start messing with those side covers and they will drip forever after.
Side cover or drain pan, there's really only one bend.
Both are thin tin that sucks to mess with, but having poured oil down funnels with much larger openings than that banjo and having it back up, that option is a distant 3rd for me.

Plus finding a fitting to use isn't easy.
 
I had to laugh this morning, at any one moment for the past 25+ years, you know someone somewhere was putting a turbo on a 3b. 🤣
And also at any moment over the past 25 years, dudes are arguing over where to put the oil drain...🤣

(But only the ones who've bought a premade kit are in favour of using the banjo fitting. :flipoff2: )
 
Yeah a kit designed for the 3b by a diesel business, used by thousands without issue, used by myself for years without issue. :hmm: Doesn’t the 13bt also dump into the block in same way and almost the same spot although beside the filter housing and they don’t share the dump.

Most of the times I try to be helpful on mud it was a mistake. :lol:
 
Yeah a kit designed for the 3b by a diesel business, used by thousands without issue, used by myself for years without issue. :hmm: Doesn’t the 13bt also dump into the block in same way and almost the same spot although beside the filter housing and they don’t share the dump.

Most of the times I try to be helpful on mud it was a mistake. :lol:
🤣

Damn dude, you wearing the tight knickers today?

The key with major shops making kits,is they can design and make their own drain fittings to double up on the banjo, AND can r&d the supply enough to know exactly how much they can get away with restricting it to make the banjo work.

When you're doing a homebrew setup you don't have those luxuries and want to err on the side of too much oil flow.

Doubling up on the banjo is great, but I don't have the right fitting, (and can't find one to buy) and making one is a lot harder than popping in an oversized drain to the pan or side panel.
 
I was curious exactly where the 13bt turbo oil return exactly was so we now have discussed a fourth! and all different drain configurations, I think.. not that this one is an option for us.
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I hate that thin side cover plate and its thick cork gasket with the maximum 10 inch pounds of torque you could apply to those bolts and nuts, if you go over that it permanently deforms and leaks oil everywhere. Must have tried to seal my bj42 three times before it stopped leaking, the last time I had to shape the areas around the bolts because it was deformed probably from me over torquing it. I wonder if the plate needs to be convex like that for clearance or if you could use it as a stencil and cut a 1/8 flat replacement steel plate, weld in your smoke tube and if you prefer turbo drain.
 
I was curious exactly where the 13bt turbo oil return exactly was so we now have discussed a fourth! and all different drain configurations, I think.. not that this one is an option for us.
View attachment 3350815

I hate that thin side cover plate and its thick cork gasket with the maximum 10 inch pounds of torque you could apply to those bolts and nuts, if you go over that it permanently deforms and leaks oil everywhere. Must have tried to seal my bj42 three times before it stopped leaking, the last time I had to shape the areas around the bolts because it was deformed probably from me over torquing it. I wonder if the plate needs to be convex like that for clearance or if you could use it as a stencil and cut a 1/8 flat replacement steel plate, weld in your smoke tube and if you prefer turbo drain.

Well, I hate to tell you but...🤣
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Decided ****it, not feeling oil pan.

That side plate is the same gauge as the pan I think, so I was in the same boat either way.
This side plate with it's bracing actually feels stiffer. I'll goop the ****ing **** out of it when it goes back on:lol:

I put thu pipe through the splash guard so the return oil didn't try to come back out the smoke pipe ... Cuz that'd be bad haha



Interesting about the 13bt.

Actually the same as the 12ht, back to the pan essentially but without putting fittings in flimsy tin.

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A mighty short distance from the turbo drain?
 
I'd forgotten I'd picked up a replacement egt probe a few years ago. Found it in a box of random s***. I have too many of those.

The yellow one I remember thinking was a dud, but just for s***s and giggles I tried it. Seems to read low... maybe bad connection under all that tape? Or maybe it's calibrated for a different gauge. Who knows.
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And replacement is pretty close to the temp they say a candle flame burns at.

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I'm undecided on what to do with gauges, I don't want a ton of gauges all over the dash, but this should be good enough for a temp install so I have some idea what's going on.

I'll get something proper before I start messing with the fuel too much.

Thinking about hiding an auber pyro inside the dash box, and putting a warning led somewhere visible.

But that'd mean giving the Auber dickhead money, which I'm not too keen on.
 

haha, scary thing is everyone kinda takes for granted that the pyros they have installed are even remotely accurate.

I'm only planning to use it until a new one shows. Maybe not even then. Having maximum on the face screams crappy tire. 🤮

Now that it I can show it functions I can sell it to a dodge guy.


I'm starting to lean towards ordering an Auber, if only to see what reaction I get when they see my name.


I quite sure Suyi will remember me :lol:


****it. Ordered an Auber pyro. I don't like this Stewart Warner one I'm playing with. Too much like Autometer crap.


I'll hide it in the dash box and put in a small LED where I can see it and set it to blink at 1100 or so.

IF they send it to me...:lol:
 
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Not sure if the yellow pyro wire coiled up to make a magnetic field would cause any resistance problems??? Good dam science.
 
Not sure if the yellow pyro wire coiled up to make a magnetic field would cause any resistance problems??? Good dam science.
That's actually quite possible. :hmm:

I remember one pyro I had it was quite emphatic that the wiring not be shortened because it was calibrated.

Maybe they're all like that, and that was the only time I read the instructions... :lol:

I'm not going to use it either way, but it's nice to know it's ballpark accurate.
 

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