LSUfj
SILVER Star
I found the nasty grease spray resulting from a torn boot over the weekend. There were no mechanical issues, so i decided to just replace the boots. The kit from toyota cost $40 and included two boots, 4 clamps, and two tubes of grease. Here are a couple notes from the job.
- there has been discussion here of which clamps to use. The kit from the toyota dealer included two kinds. The outer boot uses the kind that you crimp, while the inner boot uses the kind you find on the original boots. I had the tool to install the crimp style clamp, but did not have the tool to install the "OEM" style. I went to 6 auto parts stores to find either another set of crimp on clamps or the tool to install the OEM style. Well, I finally found the tool, but when I got home I realized that the part that you fold over and trim was already trimmed on the clamps from toyota. So....after about 4 hours of searching for the tool/clamps, I figured out that the OEM replacement clamps can be installed just by folding them over and pushing the tabs down to keep it in place. Lesson learned - OEM boot kit requires only a CV clamp crimping tool, and basic hand tools to install.
-there are two tubes of grease included. The larger tube is for the outboard boot. Same grease in both tubes.
-Rent a pitman arm puller to free the spindle from the ball joints and tie-rod end. Very easy.
-I removed the hub assembly just as you would for a brake job/bearing repack. I dont think this is necessary. You can just remove the outer snap ring that holds the CV shaft to the hub. Once you pull the spindle off of both ball joints and the tie-rod end, I think it will slide out the back side. Not sure on this, but it might save a little time.
-I also didnt remove the inner tulip from the differential. There is a large snap ring that retains the ball/cage inside of the tulip. Once you take this out with a flat head screw driver, the ball/cage will slide out. The balls will fall out at this point too, so keep track of them.
-The outer boot can be reassembled on the work bench. The inner boot should only be partially installed. I clamped the small end of the boot and installed the ball/cage with a bit of grease. It helps to put a lot of grease in the cage because gravity will work against you.
-Installing the assembly can be a bit tricky. It may have been easier to pull the inner tulip, but I didnt and it was still pretty simple. You just have to slide the ball/cage into the tulip being sure that everything stays together. Once it is in, I slid it all the way in just to get the grease to spread around. Then, install the large snap ring and give it a tug to be sure it stays.
-Install the last boot clamp and reassemble everything. I would guess that this could all be done in around 2 hours. Heres a list of the tools I got out for the job, i think I used them all...?:
Bret
- there has been discussion here of which clamps to use. The kit from the toyota dealer included two kinds. The outer boot uses the kind that you crimp, while the inner boot uses the kind you find on the original boots. I had the tool to install the crimp style clamp, but did not have the tool to install the "OEM" style. I went to 6 auto parts stores to find either another set of crimp on clamps or the tool to install the OEM style. Well, I finally found the tool, but when I got home I realized that the part that you fold over and trim was already trimmed on the clamps from toyota. So....after about 4 hours of searching for the tool/clamps, I figured out that the OEM replacement clamps can be installed just by folding them over and pushing the tabs down to keep it in place. Lesson learned - OEM boot kit requires only a CV clamp crimping tool, and basic hand tools to install.
-there are two tubes of grease included. The larger tube is for the outboard boot. Same grease in both tubes.
-Rent a pitman arm puller to free the spindle from the ball joints and tie-rod end. Very easy.
-I removed the hub assembly just as you would for a brake job/bearing repack. I dont think this is necessary. You can just remove the outer snap ring that holds the CV shaft to the hub. Once you pull the spindle off of both ball joints and the tie-rod end, I think it will slide out the back side. Not sure on this, but it might save a little time.
-I also didnt remove the inner tulip from the differential. There is a large snap ring that retains the ball/cage inside of the tulip. Once you take this out with a flat head screw driver, the ball/cage will slide out. The balls will fall out at this point too, so keep track of them.
-The outer boot can be reassembled on the work bench. The inner boot should only be partially installed. I clamped the small end of the boot and installed the ball/cage with a bit of grease. It helps to put a lot of grease in the cage because gravity will work against you.
-Installing the assembly can be a bit tricky. It may have been easier to pull the inner tulip, but I didnt and it was still pretty simple. You just have to slide the ball/cage into the tulip being sure that everything stays together. Once it is in, I slid it all the way in just to get the grease to spread around. Then, install the large snap ring and give it a tug to be sure it stays.
-Install the last boot clamp and reassemble everything. I would guess that this could all be done in around 2 hours. Heres a list of the tools I got out for the job, i think I used them all...?:
- 12, 14, 17, 19, 22, 24mm ratchets
- torque wrench
- fish scale to check wheel bearing preload (might not be needed if you dont remove hub from spindle)
- pitman arm puller and correct wrench
- a few flat head screw drivers
- clamp crimping tool
- lots of towels, latex glove are great too
- jack, jack stands
Bret
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