CV Joint HELP (1 Viewer)

[Rolocado]

I have been diagnosing a seriously annoying pop in my steering wheel for the past couple of weeks. I only feel it when I am going over uneven surfaces slowly. I crawled under the truck today and was trying to wiggle different components to see if they would move and sure enough both of my CVs have play in them. I don't imagine this is normal, the drivers side has more going forward, back than up and down. Also, is there supposed to be a gap between the CV and the shaft? Could this be my problem and if so how on earth do I tighten it?

Thanks all!

 

[jemsec]

Don't think your axle shafts are the issue unless there is evidence of loss of grease. Evidence would be grease everywhere and your pictures don;t show that. There is supposed to be some play. Suggest you check your front drive shaft and universal joints. I'm sure others will give their opinions. Don't think its a serious problem.

 

[LBridges]

I think the gap is ok. I'm not sure where you are seeing play, but with dry axles *no grease slinging) I suggest you get a wheel up into the air and see if the tire will spin a bot without the axle moving. Offered as I had a case with the splines on the axle, and mating splines in the corresponding hub flange wearing - allowing some play (and a clunk sound).

 

[Rolocado]

I think the gap is ok. I'm not sure where you are seeing play, but with dry axles *no grease slinging) I suggest you get a wheel up into the air and see if the tire will spin a bot without the axle moving. Offered as I had a case with the splines on the axle, and mating splines in the corresponding hub flange wearing - allowing some play (and a clunk sound).

I am feeling play where the CV meets the tube that goes into the differential. Where the pink circle is. I haven't ruled out axle splines yet though. If that were the case would I just need to get new flanges?

 

[ewrk1989]

Some gap you IS normal. It's approximately 3/16" or so. Not only that, the CV can move in the inboard-outboard direction another 1/8" or so. The picture with the pink oval looks like your driver side CV. Looks normal. The next picture of your PS CV-diff interface looks like more gap than I have seen in my limited experience. But if the CV is locked in, that's about all you can say about it.


Edit: The inboard-outboard movement is normal, but if you are having rotational play that will take some diagnosing. You could raise the front end and rotate one tire, hopefully the opposite side engages with minimal play (I think there is at least some gear backlash perhaps? My knowledge drops off here).

 

[ewrk1989]

Flanges are a good start. Not too difficult to pull and inspect. Pull the wheel, remove the grease cap, remove the snap ring, remove the 6 nuts and cone washers. @2001LC has several posts and pictures of what a bad flange looks like for comparison to yours.

 

[Rolocado]

Flanges are a good start. Not too difficult to pull and inspect. Pull the wheel, remove the grease cap, remove the snap ring, remove the 6 nuts and cone washers. @2001LC has several posts and pictures of what a bad flange looks like for comparison to yours.

Hahah I was just in there today tightening the wheel bearings after I was certain that was the issue. Oops.

 

[Rolocado]

Some gap you IS normal. It's approximately 3/16" or so. Not only that, the CV can move in the inboard-outboard direction another 1/8" or so. The picture with the pink oval looks like your driver side CV. Looks normal. The next picture of your PS CV-diff interface looks like more gap than I have seen in my limited experience. But if the CV is locked in, that's about all you can say about it.


Edit: The inboard-outboard movement is normal, but if you are having rotational play that will take some diagnosing. You could raise the front end and rotate one tire, hopefully the opposite side engages with minimal play (I think there is at least some gear backlash perhaps? My knowledge drops off here).

If I grab the circled part and move it in different directions to feel for play I feel it more moving forward and back. A little bit up and down. I know the gap is normal and I know I'm not slinging grease anywhere. The play I have inboard outboard within the CV is completely normal, but the forward backward at that piece is what I am wondering.

 

[2001LC]

Your front differential to front drive shaft plays sounds normal.

You apparently found you hub flange teeth worn. Something like this I imagine:

Worn hub flange teeth are most common associated with a N to D, N to R clunk (not pop). The front driver shafts axle teeth are probable worn as well in cases where hub flange teeth are worn. But most likely not very noticeable, as the metal of axle is much harder. If the CV(s) of the front drive shaft are shot (click while spinning/turning, remarkable twisting play) replace along with front hub flange makes sense. Replacing both hub flange and front drive shaft with new OEM yields the absolute best results. If CVs are serviceable an axle teeth are not noticeable worn you can just replace hub flange, then just live with some minor clunk (N to D). Keep in mind if you go with rebuilt front drive shaft(s) the axle teeth will be worn.

Neither the front drive shaft nor the hub flange generally yields a "pop" you've noted. Although front end is a complete system multiple issue can be going on, yield some unusual pop, clunk, pulls, wondering, etc..

At this point I'd be looking at ball joints, TRE, UCA & LCA bushings, stabilizer system and steering system for "pop".

 

[Rolocado]

Your front differential to front drive shaft plays sounds normal.

You apparently found you hub flange teeth worn. Something like this I imagine:
View attachment 1454907
Worn hub flange teeth are most common associated with a N to D, N to R clunk (not pop). The front driver shafts axle teeth are probable worn as well in cases where hub flange teeth are worn. But most likely not very noticeable, as the metal of axle is much harder. If the CV(s) of the front drive shaft are shot (click while spinning/turning, remarkable twisting play) replace along with front hub flange makes sense. Replacing both hub flange and front drive shaft with new OEM yields the absolute best results. If CVs are serviceable an axle teeth are not noticeable worn you can just replace hub flange, then just live with some minor clunk (N to D). Keep in mind if you go with rebuilt front drive shaft(s) the axle teeth will be worn.

Neither the front drive shaft nor the hub flange generally yields a "pop" you've noted. Although front end is a complete system multiple issue can be going on, yield some unusual pop, clunk, pulls, wondering, etc..

At this point I'd be looking at ball joints, TRE, UCA & LCA bushings, stabilizer system and steering system for "pop".

So my pop isn't the driveshaft clunk, and it only happens at low speeds and uneven surfaces. I'm going to check all the suspension linkages but they are all new within 10,000 miles so I don't know why they would be the problem? I'm going to crawl under tomorrow and keep trying to move parts to see what is making the horrible sound and feeling.