CV boot leak after lift

[Campfire]

Well for all those out there that crank up the front torsion bars and then have a leak start I've done a long term test. Mine did the normal spitting after I re-indexed the bars and cranked them up. My boots started leaking from the inner boot slightly, then a little more after time. I found that I could twist the boot on the axle at the small end of the boot, and the clamp was not tight anymore.

The search was on for a better clamp that I have used in the past on different vehicles. The OEM clamps are "fold over" type that has one closed diameter, and cannot be tightened any more than designed. I found some "crimp style" clamps in the 38-40MM size that I have the tool for. This is where the cost can creep up for the DIY guy, unless you like buying tools and can use them later.

So far I'm at 12K miles after re-clamping the boots, and they are nice and dry now. Hope this can help those fighting grease spots all the inner fenders.
Here is the type of clamp I used.

And here are the crimping pliers yuo will need to tighten this type of clamp.

 

[jbub3]

Jeff, I just noticed some leaking after my lift. Did you replace the boots also? Are you able to replace without removing boots? Where are you getting clamps? Thanks for the heads up.

 

[SWUtah]

Wonder how the AHC affects the boots on the LX's with the lifting from low to high?

 

[Campfire]

Jeff, I just noticed some leaking after my lift. Did you replace the boots also? Are you able to replace without removing boots? Where are you getting clamps? Thanks for the heads up.

I found these clamps at a NAPA Auto Parts store and clamped them right over the old boots. That is one HUGE advantage for them as they open up and you don't have to disassemble the axle. Just have some good side cutters to get the old clamp off.

Wonder how the AHC affects the boots on the LX's with the lifting from low to high?

I would like to look at a LX to see if they changed the clamp design, but I don't know if they are different.

 

[e9999]

do they have the tool at NAPA too?

what is best way to handle addition of grease if you lost some? probably would want to use same grease as OEM, but how much? I guess one should be able to add some easily with a needle...

 

[Jim_Chow]

Wonder how the AHC affects the boots on the LX's with the lifting from low to high?

I got a hint of seepage w/ the AHC in high, but keep in mind that you're not drivin w/ the AHC In high all the time...only when offroad and going slow. If you crank up the t-bars, the CV is bent at that angle all the time, so you'd expect to lose a lot more grease.

Some time back, someone re-banded his CV's w/ band-it clamps. I'm not sure if he banded the small end or large end (I'd guess the small end?). IIRC, KD Tools makes a tool to band those clamps.

 

[ZJ2UZJ100]

Campfire:

How fast does your toolbox go with that V6 Twin cam 24valve engine inside?

Is it 4WD? Gotta git me one of those.

 

[e9999]

no lift here, but leakage.

Dealer quoted us $500 per side...

Fortunately, we still have the extended warranty... Dang, that thing paid for itself already... (that good or a bad sign...?)

They will do a full repack...



I did check at NAPA and they did have some clamps ($2 or so) -only 2 sizes but lots of adjustment room- and pliers ($30).
Not too sure you can get the grease from Toy outside of the boot kit though (but that's "only" $47).
I would for sure do it myself if we didn't have the warranty...

 

[Ghost]

Jeff, does that crimping tool ALSO tighten the clamps? It seems that it'd be important to get a tighter seal than stock to really 'solve' the leakage problem. Ghost

 

[FirstToy]

Campfire, german cars use that style clamp on everything. kinda like a one-time-use constant tension clamp.

The stress on the boot is from the angle of the cv shaft forcing the boot to rotate at an extreme angle correct?

Just an idea, how about cinching up the shaft-side of the boot (small opening) closer to the joint (effectively lessening the angle stress on the boot) and then tightening it up.

Just tightening the boot ends maybe will lead to an early tear in the accordians of the boot... b/c all that stress that is pulling the end open has to go somewhere. just some ideas... good luck


Eric,
If your CV's only leaked a little than it's no big deal, esp if the boot is not torn. Inner or outer joint?

 

[Snook]

Both of my CV boots is leaking so I went ahead and replace it over the weekend, also replace roller bearings and brake rotors. I used this crimp tool (provided by Amando) and it works pretty well.

Regards,

 

[e9999]

well, Snook, I can say that your clamping looks 100% better than that the Toy tech did at the dealer on ours. Looks like it was tightened by a drunk monkey... I was annoyed, especially since the FSM was stating precise gap figures at the crimp...


(eh, you didn't use Mayo as lube for that thing, didja? )

 

[Snook]

http://toyota.spx.com/detail.aspx?id=329&g=20

I googled the part number 09521-24010 as seen in this photo and I came across this link. Not sure why those professional won't use this one.

Cheers,

 

[Tinkerer]

.02:

1. Evidently, 100 Series CV Boots have a tendency to start leaking after about 50-60k in any case, whether lifted or not. (Mine leaked, no lift; have read of others' also leaking without lift.) (This has been discussed before in Mud.)

2. The other common type of CV Boot Clamp - the OEM style - can also work fine as replacement clamp, and may be tightened more than OEM as desired to resolve the leakage problem. From

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=27678&highlight=boot+clamp

"...stainless BAND-IT clamps and special tool made by KD Tools (#3191). Total cost about $30 for 2 clamp replacements ($5 each for clamps, $20 for tool)."

See Pix, attached.

The point is to stop the leaks BEFORE you lose much grease. If you do that, it doesn't cost $500 per side! Only about $5 per clamp and a little time underneath the vehicle; no re-greasing etc. necessary in that case.

3. Dealer shop personnel competency/workmanship complaints: I'd say this is one of those repairs that requires a wee bit of feel, to tighten a wee bit more than OEM without damaging Boot. Definitely something I would not allow a Dealer Service Technician to touch.

(Other than that, y'all have heard me rant enough already about Dealers and their Service Technicians...)

 

[Campfire]

.02:

1. Evidently, 100 Series CV Boots have a tendency to start leaking after about 50-60k in any case, whether lifted or not. (Mine leaked, no lift; have read of others' also leaking without lift.) (This has been discussed before in Mud.)

2. The other common type of CV Boot Clamp - the OEM style - can also work fine as replacement clamp, and may be tightened more than OEM as desired to resolve the leakage problem. From

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=27678&highlight=boot+clamp

"...stainless BAND-IT clamps and special tool made by KD Tools (#3191). Total cost about $30 for 2 clamp replacements ($5 each for clamps, $20 for tool)."

See Pix, attached.

The point is to stop the leaks BEFORE you lose much grease. If you do that, it doesn't cost $500 per side! Only about $5 per clamp and a little time underneath the vehicle; no re-greasing etc. necessary in that case.

3. Dealer shop personnel competency/workmanship complaints: I'd say this is one of those repairs that requires a wee bit of feel, to tighten a wee bit more than OEM without damaging Boot. Definitely something I would not allow a Dealer Service Technician to touch.

(Other than that, y'all have heard me rant enough already about Dealers and their Service Technicians...)

I've used the BAND-IT clamps also, but you need room to use that tool and get them tight. They work great if you have the axle on the bench replacing the boots. If you're doing them in the rig, you have to wind them through themselves.
I wonder how much that Toyota tool is? Don't have one of those...

 

[Tinkerer]

I've used the BAND-IT clamps also, but you need room to use that tool and get them tight. They work great if you have the axle on the bench replacing the boots. If you're doing them in the rig, you have to wind them through themselves.
I wonder how much that Toyota tool is? Don't have one of those...

Hmmm, the BAND-IT clamps and tool worked fine for me when used on the Boots in-vehicle. No problems. Results look like factory clamps (that don't leak).



But as they say, there's more than one way to skin a cat.

 

[Landpimp]

my boots leaked a bit after the lift, but then added the Slee diff drop and no more leakin

our LX470 has 130K+ on it, no leakin

 

[rusty_tlc]

I was looking for part numbers for the clamps and the tool.