CV boot issues on lifted trucks?

[linuxgod]

Dropped the truck at the dealer for 90k fluid service and new brakes (went with StopTech cryo discs and Centric HD fleet pads) and asked them to do a full inspection of the truck. I would've done this myself but my weekends are packed so I had to decide between truck maintenance or installing a new battery monitoring system in the camper. The latter is more rewarding than brakes so it won out. Anyway most everything checked out fine but the passenger side outer CV boot was torn at the clamp. Driver's side is apparently fine. The dealer is re-booting the CV. I have about 25k on these. Not sure if the tear is due to:

• 2" TD lift (mechanic strongly thinks it's the CV angle, though I know many of you guys have not had issues)
• The prior CV boot might not be a Toyota factory boot (mine were re-booted when they were accidentally punctured doing the lift install at ~66k and I don't know if the guy who did the work used factory or aftermarket boots)
• Road debris or something tearing the boot (I do have a TT bull bar, so the CVs are more exposed, though again the mechanic said the tear was at the clamp).
• Alignment caster set beyond Toyota factory spec (PS side was at 4.3 degrees, factory spec has a max of 3.7 degrees) stretching the boot more than designed.
• Towing 5000-6000 miles per year with a lift and heavy trailer - the latter which reduces weight on the front axle and ultimately "lifts" it an additional 1/2 to 1" while cruising at 70+ on the highway.
• Some combination of the above

I do have a diff drop kit that I never got around to installing, and after a year without issues I decided to wait and see. Technically a DD reduces the normal operating angle of a CV but it also stretches the angle at full compression... which might be fine but as I don't know how far you can extend a CV without causing binding or worse I was a bit hesitant to try it.

Ultimately if I install the DD I won't know if this is a fluke or an actual problem. As a methodical engineer I kinda want to wait a few years to see if:

• The DS boot tears but the new PS boot is fine (which would indicate cheap boots)
• The PS boot tears again but not the DS boot (which would indicate the alignment might be the cause)
• Both boots give out (which would indicate a DD is in order)

But as a real person who has to spend either $ or time to re-boot, I'm inclined to just install the DD kit. So my questions to the masses with more experience than me are:

1. How much lift do you have on the front? How long have you had your lift (miles)? Do you have a diff drop? Have you had any CV issues?
2. If you were in my shoes, would you install the DD (which gives up 1" of clearance and changes the CV angles at both normal and extreme operating limits)?

 

[Willy beamin]

1) I have around 4.5" - 5" of lift +/- ..... lift has been on for 5 years and or 90,000 miles....I have had a diff drop in play since day one of lift being installed.....No CV issues
2) 2" lift is really common. I've watched your build progress over the years and adventures. From what I can gather, from what you share on MUD, is the trails you post about conquering are mild in regards to difficulty - that's not a bash. If you are at all concerned which it appears like you are, then just install the diff drop, its easy and takes less than an hour.
3) I'd make sure the CV boot clamps are OE. I had an after market CV boot clamp put on before and it was nothing but a redo / mess. GO OE or go home!
hope that was the kind of reply you were seeking

 

[linuxgod]

Thanks @Willy beamin. Yeah that's helpful. And you're correct, my build is mild in comparison to many folks as are the trails - no offense taken there, it's absolutely a function of having one vehicle, living in Chicago, fitting my wife+3kids+dog into the truck, etc.

 

[afgman786]

To piggy back off OP's questions, are you actually losing clearance from a diff drop if you're running aftermarket skids (BudBuilt/ARB)? Does there need to be modifications made to the skids or does all that remain the same?

 

[Willy beamin]

To piggy back off OP's questions, are you actually losing clearance from a diff drop if you're running aftermarket skids (BudBuilt/ARB)? Does there need to be modifications made to the skids or does all that remain the same?

YES - when i ordered my skids through bud built he made my very front skid plate with some adjustments to work with the diff drop.
you have to let bud or whomever know what the amount of drop the diff drop provides. Great question! @afgman786

 

[blatant]

I have ome 2" and even with Marks DD, angles are way worse then my non DD 100, with 866's ome, but better than if there was no dd at all ( on 200 ) Nothing more to add but figured having DD and angles closest to OEM, can't be bad. Plus local dealer is wizard and happy to do all the mods and knows what's what.

It's been on for almost 50k and have no issues, boot problems, etc.

 

[Markuson]

No diff drop on my 11+ year old 200...
Original CVs/boots still going strong.

 

[linuxgod]

(also posted in "What did you do to your 200 this week" but I thought it would be good to record it here for posterity)

I put the diff drop on this weekend. Sorry no pics my hands were too greasy to muck with my phone, but the photos in the diff drop group buy instructions are better than I would've taken anyway. I've gone back and forth on losing 1" of clearance vs the potential for CV issues. Ultimately what swayed me was that when I tow the trailer weight ends up lifting the front suspension, so even though my normally lift might be 2" in the front I realized that when towing (which is about half my annual mileage) I'm definitely exceeding 2.5" and might be closer to 3.

I bought a kit off ebay 2 years ago, which looks very similar to the current Dobinson's kit (which I don't think that was available 2 years ago), so that's what I used.

Diff Drop Kit 4WD For Toyota Landcruiser 200 Series Suit 2 " - 5" Inch Lift Kit | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Diff Drop Kit 4WD For Toyota Landcruiser 200 Series Suit 2 " - 5" Inch Lift Kit at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Dobinsons Front IFS Diff Drop Kit for Toyota Tundra, 200 Series Land Cruiser and Sequoia - Dobinsons Direct

Keeps CV angles at a good working angle Allows for lifts over 2.0" Includes all necessary hardware, including machined spacers and nuts/bolts Compliments Dobinsons 3" lifts for IFS Toyota vehicles

www.dobinsonsdirect.com

It didn't come with instructions so I ended up combining the ones from Low Range Offroad, Marks 4WD, and the ones from the diff drop group buy from a few years back at Diff Drop Kit Group Buy.

• I ended up using 2 of the large spacers (1" tall, 2.5" wide) for the front diff arms. I used the new 150mm long grade 8.8 bolts but reused the old Toyota flanged nuts rather than the supplied nylock nuts.
• The 3rd large spacer was used to drop the center skid plate mount. I missed that at first as I think only the group buy kit shows that being installed, and my skid plates wouldn't mount up cleanly. With that spacer installed they fit perfectly. FYI note that the spacer hole is larger than the 8mm bolt so either you'll have some play in the spacer or you can order a sleeve from https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product-13696
• The 6 bash plate screws and spacers went on fine, no issues.
• In the rear arm I just used the smaller washer/spacer (it's maybe 6mm tall) as my kit didn't come with an 18mm tall spacer like the group buy kit. Not sure if that is "correct". Doing it this way, the 14mm grade 8.8 bolt which is 80mm long isn't needed as there's plenty of thread on the factory bolt. Also no need to grind the top of the arm like the group buy kit suggests. If anyone has done this differently I would be interested.

Total cost was about $70. If anyone does this in the future with the Dobinson's or ebay kits, I suggest following the forum group buy instructions through step 5. When you get to step 6, simply loosen the bolt that is marked "NUT" in the second step a few turns, then remove bolt B, slip the 6mm tall washer/spacer in, reinsert bolt B and tighten B and NUT to 89 ft/lbs.

FYI the instructions say 1 hour but it took me more like 2-3. (Actually closer to 4 but part of that was grinding out the lip of my steep bumper which was resting against the front skid plate bolts and making it extremely difficult to remove them). I could probably do it in an hour now with power tools and a lift.

 

[ToyTruckGuy]

Need help pls. New to forum. Had mechanic installed aftermarket Cardone axles recently on 100 series with I think 2-3 inch lift after putting in Old Man Emu suspension but boots torn and leaking grease. Is there a boot available to compensate for the increased angle? Will diff drop kit help? If so , any recommendation of a good one? Thanks a lot .

 

[bloc]

Need help pls. New to forum. Had mechanic installed aftermarket Cardone axles recently on 100 series with I think 2-3 inch lift after putting in Old Man Emu suspension but boots torn and leaking grease. Is there a boot available to compensate for the increased angle? Will diff drop kit help? If so , any recommendation of a good one? Thanks a lot .

FYI Not much about 200-series lifts/axles/diff drops will apply to 100-series.