I have to lose the crossmember to clearance the Toybox, any final words of wisdom before I get the torch out?
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2badfjs said:astalavista baby!!!!!!
are you gonna re-weld another x-member in
oh there goes your pretty frame....![]()
IanB said:Yeah I need a mounting point for the anti-wrap. I am not sure how to figure the location for the new one yet, I still haven't got the stock springs to flew fully, not enough weight. I may need to drop the tub on it to get everything figured out.
Man with the Toybox, SOA and spring reversal my front driveshaft is gonna be looooong. May be able to use the rear DS from a 60 lol. The rear will be close to stock length.
woody said:stock miniToy bushing under the minicase combined with spring-eye-type bushings at the frame....outta be designable - treeroot's design for his Orion is also excellent
Mace said:If you run links the frame does not twist![]()
woody said:IMO, don't overmount...your frame WILL twist, and having too many varied points will eventually force one of them to loosen....common problem with adapters too....
Personally, my preference is a simple triangulation mounting system, since it will minimize the stress on any one mount due to twist. My 350 is mounted with two spring-eye-type bushings and the trans/case with one center bushing under the end of the tranny...the frame-side bushings make the rear crossmember removable for maint/repair, but could be optional
bkfj40 said:brings up a good point about mounting...I've always wondered that if people with the rear transfercase mount have more chance of splitting open their transfercases.
This mount is the one that attaches to the rear cone of the transfercase and then attaches to the frame - I think that a single mount like woody is mentioning might be a better way to go...
bk
bandy rooster said:what exactly does a triangulation mounting system mean? i'm just wondering for future reference...
bustanutley said:Exactly how he discribes. Two mounts to the engine, one to the tranny or t-case.
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