I have to lose the crossmember to clearance the Toybox, any final words of wisdom before I get the torch out?
Cutting the crossmember out. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Ullr
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astalavista baby!!!!!!
are you gonna re-weld another x-member in
oh there goes your pretty frame....
are you gonna re-weld another x-member in
oh there goes your pretty frame....
- Thread starter
- #4
2badfjs said:astalavista baby!!!!!!
are you gonna re-weld another x-member in
oh there goes your pretty frame....
Yeah I need a mounting point for the anti-wrap. I am not sure how to figure the location for the new one yet, I still haven't got the stock springs to flew fully, not enough weight. I may need to drop the tub on it to get everything figured out.
Man with the Toybox, SOA and spring reversal my front driveshaft is gonna be looooong. May be able to use the rear DS from a 60 lol. The rear will be close to stock length.
IanB said:
build a skid plate https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=58284&highlight=skid+plates
incorporate your anti wrap into it
have you done anything to the body?
or is it still on its side out back?
skip the torch, use the sawzall....
leave an inch+ of tube on the frame sides, and you may be able to have a smaller diameter/creatively bent/better design one made to replace it and get that welded in, even one that could double as a cross-support for the t-case (tho, I prefer a triple-bushing design for those mounts, versus solid on the frame)
stock miniToy bushing under the minicase combined with spring-eye-type bushings at the frame....outta be designable - treeroot's design for his Orion is also excellent
leave an inch+ of tube on the frame sides, and you may be able to have a smaller diameter/creatively bent/better design one made to replace it and get that welded in, even one that could double as a cross-support for the t-case (tho, I prefer a triple-bushing design for those mounts, versus solid on the frame)
stock miniToy bushing under the minicase combined with spring-eye-type bushings at the frame....outta be designable - treeroot's design for his Orion is also excellent
- Thread starter
- #7
woody said:
That is what I am thinking. I was actually going to use both though, the mounting point on the H42 and the one on the Toybox, with bushings at the frame rail mount points too. With all that i don't think i will need another support for the split case too and so the rear replacement xmember can be welded in solid and used as a mount point for the anti wrap.
IMO, don't overmount...your frame WILL twist, and having too many varied points will eventually force one of them to loosen....common problem with adapters too....
Personally, my preference is a simple triangulation mounting system, since it will minimize the stress on any one mount due to twist. My 350 is mounted with two spring-eye-type bushings and the trans/case with one center bushing under the end of the tranny...the frame-side bushings make the rear crossmember removable for maint/repair, but could be optional
Personally, my preference is a simple triangulation mounting system, since it will minimize the stress on any one mount due to twist. My 350 is mounted with two spring-eye-type bushings and the trans/case with one center bushing under the end of the tranny...the frame-side bushings make the rear crossmember removable for maint/repair, but could be optional
brings up a good point about mounting...I've always wondered that if people with the rear transfercase mount have more chance of splitting open their transfercases.
This mount is the one that attaches to the rear cone of the transfercase and then attaches to the frame - I think that a single mount like woody is mentioning might be a better way to go...
bk
This mount is the one that attaches to the rear cone of the transfercase and then attaches to the frame - I think that a single mount like woody is mentioning might be a better way to go...
bk
Dont Scuff The Piant!.... Haha... Have Fun Doing It, Looks Like A Sweet Build
Mace said:If you run links the frame does not twist
It will if you find big enough Rocks!
woody said:
what exactly does a triangulation mounting system mean? i'm just wondering for future reference...
Cube Dweller
Moderator
bkfj40 said:
Hijack: For my 4runner I've got the 3/8" steel Marlin skidplate that's drilled and countersunk to use both tranfer case mounts. Is it common for someone to split a case running both?
Front case is a standard, Marlin built gear drive reduction box with an adaptor to use the stock chain drive case. I picked up a 4cyl case mount from a recycler and was planning on using the chain drive case mount as well. Is this a bad idea?
bandy rooster said:
Exactly how he discribes. Two mounts to the engine, one to the tranny or t-case.
bustanutley said:Exactly how he discribes. Two mounts to the engine, one to the tranny or t-case.
Connect the dots and you have an iscoceles triangle.
uh oh... bailey dropped the isosceles, ha ha.
ian, lookin good man, i like how you're takin your time and making sure that it looks good.
having never replaced a crossmember or anything like that, my opinion doesn't matter, but i like the ones with the frame mounted bushings...i was lookin at some of those brackets/kits on ruffstuff or some other fabshop website the other day and just really liked em.
ian, lookin good man, i like how you're takin your time and making sure that it looks good.
having never replaced a crossmember or anything like that, my opinion doesn't matter, but i like the ones with the frame mounted bushings...i was lookin at some of those brackets/kits on ruffstuff or some other fabshop website the other day and just really liked em.
