Cut ans Turn and Axle Re-Centering Questions

[Discyota]

So I finally threw my new driveshaft into my truck, the LR D2 with FZJ80 axles. I had a CV shaft and it vibed so bad I had a multiple CV shaft made, but it still vibes above 60mph and my rear end is good up until 80mph, so this is no good. My problem is that my pinion is only pointed upwards at 10* and my t-case output is up at 5* too. So ive got two bad angles and only 23" to work with in drivshaft length ( a disco has a shorter front shaft than an 80). I also have a compound angle of 1". The 80 pinion is 1" more to the pass side compared to the rover t-case. So basically my front driveline hates itself.

I am going to have the axle cut and turned by a local fab shop, not the one who originally did my swap. I will have it cut and turned so I have 5* of positive castor, and a pinion pointed directly at the t-case (rather than far below it, like it is now). Has anyone cut and turned a FZJ80 axle, is it any different to cut and turn compared to an older toy axle?

Now here is the difficult part. I want to re-center the pinion, so I can eliminate my compound angle. Im not too sure how to go about this, so please give me some feedback on my ideas. The pinion needs to be moved over 1" towards the drivers side. I have two ideas on doing this. One easier, one harder. Tell me if one or both will work. With both swaps the radius arm and spring mounts will be moved over 1" to accomidate the new axle location with the centered pinion. Steering and panhard rods will be shortened accordingly. Those are the basics, they are easy, getting the wheels re-centered is where im unsure of what to do.

Recentering plan 1: after cutting and turning leave the axle housing stock as is. Place a 1" wheel spacer on just the pass side. This will leave my wheels centered under the truck, and make it track down the road straight. A bit ghetto, but if it works, im happy. My worry is this: will having a 1" spacer on just one side fxxx with my steering and braking bad? I know my car will turn farther to the right than the left while turning in a circle and that doesnt bother me. My concern is while at speed will it turn funny? Also will the braking forces be different due to the extra inch of space on the hub? im thinking it wont since the tires will be centered on the road.

Recenterign Plan 2 : when the axle is being cut and turned, modify the housing. While the swivels are cut, pull the entire swivel with its tube out of the axle, and then add a 1" tube spacer on it and then weld it back on. This would make the housing 1" wider, and centered. I'd then have a custom shaft made 1" longer to accomidate the extra 1" of housing. My only concern as to why this wouldnt work would be the length of the tube attached to the swivel would not be long enough to be structurally sound if welded back in with a 1" spacer in place. Is there enough length on that tube connected to the swivel to do this?

Any help would be great. If option 1 will work without braking and steering issues i'll go for that. If not, what do you think of option 2. Thanks.

 

[numtel]

A fabrication shop can retube your axle. This is what you are looking for. They will be able to align the pinion and knuckles at the same time. If you're looking for something really fancy, you may want to look in to a diamond axle from front range off road fabrication. They make custom housings to whatever widths you want.

 

[Discyota]

A fabrication shop can retube your axle. This is what you are looking for. They will be able to align the pinion and knuckles at the same time. If you're looking for something really fancy, you may want to look in to a diamond axle from front range off road fabrication. They make custom housings to whatever widths you want.

im looking to spend the least amount of money possible as of right now. Between axles and I have gone broke :whoops:

I know re-tubing is the way to go. but a spacer on one side would save me alot of cash. Which is why I wonder if that will work

 

[Isotel]

i think your issue is the fact that the t-case is pointed up at 5 Degrees, and it has nothing to do with the 1" offset

My Rear CV is offset by 2-3" and i have no vibrations up to 70mph take a look at the photo.. My driveline is almost flat, and my Pinnion Points Straight at the t-case..

Id say you should start by raising the t-case/lowering the engine.

Then if you still have issues maybe cut and turn the 80 housing.. If your running a hi-pinnion you shouldint need to

Is the Rover T-case Full time 4WD?? If not, Slap Some Hubs on the Axle in place of the drive flanges.. ( you should not need 4wd at 60mph)

 

[Isotel]

opton 1 would not work.. research scrub radius and Akerman Angles (sp ) it will steer like crap with 1" spacer on only one side.. and you will burn up tires.. especialy at those speeds in AWD..

 

[Discyota]

opton 1 would not work.. research scrub radius and Akerman Angles (sp ) it will steer like crap with 1" spacer on only one side.. and you will burn up tires.. especialy at those speeds in AWD..

Looking up scrub radius answered it all. Thanks. Looks like if i need to re-center option 2 is my only option.

LR LT230 is full time. No luck there.

Pinion pointed upwards shouldnt matter, to change that all i'd need to do would be to lift the rear of the truck another 1" to get rid of that 5*. I think its a matter of the pinion not pointing directly at the t-case thats causing vibes.

 

[Fromage]

You can convert the LT230 to part-time operation as a last resort. Talk to Ashcroft transmissions for more information. A 1" misalignment from diff to T case is negligible. It will probably not cause a noticeable vibration.

I would have a shop cut and turn the front end to align the diff with the T case output flange and get a proper double cardan driveshaft. This should solve your issues.

 

["N8"]

Is that dryer ducting I see?

 

[bustanutley]

The one inch offset should not be the problem, as long as the compound angle on your u-joint end does not exceed around 2 deg, but it sounds like it may, this leaves you 3 options I can think of: 1 shorten housing and have need axle shaft made. 2 Install unlocking hubs on your front axle if your t-case comes out of 4 wheel drive so nothing upfront truns on the road. Option 3 pull your front d-shaft when you are not wheeling

I personally would look into option 2

 

[bustanutley]

Is that dryer ducting I see?

That would be the vato zone special flexy pipe You will see the same sweet setup exiting my ride, its great cause it moves out of the way when I hit it on rocks

 

[pygpen]

If I'm understanding this correctly, you're worried about a 1" horizontal offset?
If so, disregard it. The u-joints/CV's do not know if the angle they are running at is verticle, horizontal, or somwhere inbetween (as long as they do not exceed their max working angle).
Factoid: Early LC's came from the factory with a centered rear and offset xfer case.....
PMK

 

[Isotel]

Is that dryer ducting I see?

autozone's exhaust section is cheeper than a real exhaust shop!



I dont know what you have found out yet on your issue, but i would first put on some hubs.. This will take all the stress out of the driveline.. may fix the vibration issue.. Next, i would look into making that Rover T-case part time..

Or Junk the Rover t-case and buy something with some beef, and some upgradablity.. I love my Dana 300, and it would cost less than custom axleshafts, and having the axle housing modified.. plus you can do twin sticks, Front Digs, 32 spline, 4:1 Ect..

 

[Discyota]

autozone's exhaust section is cheeper than a real exhaust shop!



I dont know what you have found out yet on your issue, but i would first put on some hubs.. This will take all the stress out of the driveline.. may fix the vibration issue.. Next, i would look into making that Rover T-case part time..

Or Junk the Rover t-case and buy something with some beef, and some upgradablity.. I love my Dana 300, and it would cost less than custom axleshafts, and having the axle housing modified.. plus you can do twin sticks, Front Digs, 32 spline, 4:1 Ect..

Im going to cut and turn it, that will hopefully solve my problem. Im still trying to find someone in AZ to do it.

The rover LT230 is full gear driven and strong as s***, a dana 300 would not be an upgrade. I dont want to convert to part time.

 

[ridgerunner]

There was a thread on Pirate a few years ago where a 40 owner widened his front axle by adding a 3"? spacer on the right hand side. Option number 2 is available, if you have the right shop do it (since it sould like you're not up to it).

I'd search for you, but I don't have a star there anymore, and it's not worth the money.

 

[Discyota]

There was a thread on Pirate a few years ago where a 40 owner widened his front axle by adding a 3"? spacer on the right hand side. Option number 2 is available, if you have the right shop do it (since it sould like you're not up to it).

I'd search for you, but I don't have a star there anymore, and it's not worth the money.

Very bad idea, as i was told, search up on ackerman angles and the turning center radius and whatnot. It would drive like hell.

 

[ridgerunner]

People do it all the time though, as a lot of Dana axles are narrowed. Plus- it's not that big of a deal as you think. Is there any noticable difference between 60 knuckles and 40 knuckles, even though the axle is about 3" wider? Nope. There does seem to be a variation in steering arms, but most hysteer kits ignore it.

It's only an inch.