Custom Fuse Block Bracket (1 Viewer)

[mr2m1]

I'm looking at making a few Blue Sea fuse block mounts/brackets. These will mount to the passenger side fender near the battery. They will be CNC cut and powder coated a black wrinkle.

My question to other owners is, which is better 1 inch grommets to pass wires thru or a slot? I do have some concern about the slot damaging wires, but that could be remedied by using shrink tube.

Thanks for your input.

 

[LA Z]

I would go with the grommet, larger contact area between the wire and the bracket.
If you go with the slot and heat shrink tubing the contact area remains the same, witch will become an issue
somewhere down the road. You could use edge protector molding on the slot to remedy the issue.

Quick question: Are you using that block in place of the fusible links?

If yes, remember ATC fuses only come in 40A Max. Might not be enough current.

 

[mr2m1]

I would go with the grommet, larger contact area between the wire and the bracket.
If you go with the slot and heat shrink tubing the contact area remains the same, witch will become an issue
somewhere down the road. You could use edge protector molding on the slot to remedy the issue.

Agreed, thanks for the suggestion.

Quick question: Are you using that block in place of the fusible links?

If yes, remember ATC fuses only come in 40A Max. Might not be enough current.

No, the fuse block is for items like a CB radio, off road lights, back up lights or ???

 

[CruiserTrash]

I designed and sell a fuse block bracket made out of laser cut stainless steel and it uses slots. So far no adverse rubbing on any wires, though grommets ain’t a half bad idea. The problem I ran into is that there are multiple variations of the 60 Series engine bay and the location you’re suggesting - I think it’s the same one my bracket uses based on the mounting holes you’re showing - is inevitably in the way of something for somebody. There’s AC and non-AC 2Fs. The 3FE air cleaner ends up being in the way of the bracket, and some 2F folks who use a snorkel run that air cleaner. It’s a popular location for n board air for lockers. Then there’s non-USA trucks which have totally different interferences. I went back to the drawing board until I can find a sneaky location that works for more trucks because I was not seeing demand. I run it and love the location and utility, but obviously enough people disagree.

Not trying to butt into your thread with my product … just letting you know about some of the issues I ran into going down this same path. Good luck.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Quick question: Are you using that block in place of the fusible links?

If yes, remember ATC fuses only come in 40A Max. Might not be enough current.

I run an 80A MIDI fuse in place of one of the fusible link legs - between the battery positive and alternator positive lugs. I do that in conjunction with 4awg wiring so the alternator recharging the battery isn’t choked by the existing 14awg wiring. MIDI is a great standard for incorporating larger current fuses in a small package, and there are fuse blocks out there that can hold both MIDI and ATC blade fuses. That gives you flexibility in incorporating a lot of different fusing needs. Just one way to skin the cat, so to speak.

 

[LA Z]

I’ve installed this on my 62.
It holds 5 mini ANL fuses and 3 ATCs
Lot of choices in mini ANL up to 250A