Cummins and Isuzu 80 series kits

[69rambler]

This may be a stupid question, but I am seriously contemplating dropping a 5.9L Cummins 24v Turbo Diesel in my 80 series.

My questions are:

Will any 5.9L Cummins 24v Turbo Diesel work? I have been looking at some 98-04 Dodge Ram 2500 on craigslist the 98 go for around 5500, obviously coming from a clean running truck.

So the parts we need to this conversion as a take out and put in new engine is really:

Diesel Engine
Cummins Adapter to our tranny
Motor mounts that you guys fabricate
Computech controller for transmission
redo the torque converter stall ratios

Is this basically it, or will there be more fabbing and welding etc? or is it just drop in and then integrate AC, and Power steering and getting electrical to work with the engine?

Will we need anything else from the donor vehicle other than the engine and its components?

Thanks in advance for your response.

If you buy a good running engine from a Dodge it's going to have all the accessories on it you need. We did a couple swaps using the landcruiser accesories on Cummins engines, but the cost/benefit is bad compared to using the Dodge AC (Sanden), Alternator (Denso) and steering/vacuum pump (Wabco/Saginaw).

With the adapter kit and mounts we sell you will have the engine in place with wiring and lines to connect. An 80 series with a six cylinder Cummins will have very little room for an intercooler. A factory intercooled Cummins engine will need it's intercooler removed.

PS, AC and coolant connections are pretty straightforward. The lower radiator connection is the only one that won't work with a factory hose, you need to use a couple formed silicone elbows and a piece of tubing.

The throttle and cruise control cables are a little work depending on the engine model you use.

The Landcruiser engines are not light, 1HD-T 750, 2F 700, 3FE 675, 1FZ 650 VS 1050 For complete six cylinder Cummins. The factory frame will handle the load just fine.

The 2003+ Commonrail Cummins Dodge valvecover won't clear the 80 series hood in the very front. Cummins industrial engines used a lower profile valve cover (better looking too) that will work. Something to factor in if you choose one of these engines.

 

[adventr]

Regarding my previous statements on A442f transmission control... After reviewing the diagrams in the FSM, I believe it will be quite easy to control standalone.

I'll be starting a separate thread on this today.

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[AMMO]

Awesome thanks Tim!


-A

 

[raynyc]

there isnt a diesel swap i can do without lifting my rig right?

 

[Bjohnston115]

there isnt a diesel swap i can do without lifting my rig right?

You can put a 4bt in without a lift, but you'll have to cut the oilpan.

 

[raynyc]

so i can get away with a 3 inch lift and a little cutting in the pan? i only ask because 95% of the time this truck will be on the street then the rest of the time on the beach , no heavy wheeling probably ever.

 

[69rambler]

The only interference with a Cummins engine in an unlifted 80 series using these adapters is the oil pan sump to the factory steering tie rod behind the axle.

I'm considering making some HD offset tie rods for those that would like to avoid the pan notch or suspension lift. The tie rod would offset forward appx 1.5" from where it sits normally.

If you've seen what I've seen you might think the Toyota engineers had the 5.9 Cummins in mind when they designed the 80 series. The fit is surprisingly good, there's even a bump in the hood insulation giving the perfect clearance for the intake plumbing with the grid heater installed.

 

[adventr]

The only interference with a Cummins engine in an unlifted 80 series using these adapters is the oil pan sump to the factory steering tie rod behind the axle.

I'm considering making some HD offset tie rods for those that would like to avoid the pan notch or suspension lift. The tie rod would offset forward appx 1.5" from where it sits normally.

If you've seen what I've seen you might think the Toyota engineers had the 5.9 Cummins in mind when they designed the 80 series. The fit is surprisingly good, there's even a bump in the hood insulation giving the perfect clearance for the intake plumbing with the grid heater installed.

Nice. I've always thought that the 6bt would be a good fit in the 80 series. The suburban I built, the fit was OK, but could have been better. However, the suburban frame was designed for a big ol v8 (mine had a 454), not an inline 6 like the 80 was.

How is the fitment with the cummins a/c compressor in place? That was a big problem on the suburban, as it sits right where the frame rail was.

And I may have missed it, but do you already have motor mounts built for one of these?

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[69rambler]

Nice. I've always thought that the 6bt would be a good fit in the 80 series. The suburban I built, the fit was OK, but could have been better. However, the suburban frame was designed for a big ol v8 (mine had a 454), not an inline 6 like the 80 was.

How is the fitment with the cummins a/c compressor in place? That was a big problem on the suburban, as it sits right where the frame rail was.

And I may have missed it, but do you already have motor mounts built for one of these?

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The Dodge Cummins AC compressor has 1.25" of clearance to the frame rail.

Mounts are $200. They are fixture welded from 1/4" and 3/16" steel to fit the stock Landcruiser rubber isolators.

 

[adventr]

The Dodge Cummins AC compressor has 1.25" of clearance to the frame rail.

Mounts are $200. They are fixture welded from 1/4" and 3/16" steel to fit the stock Landcruiser rubber isolators.

Perfect. That seals the deal.


Do you happen to have any close-up pics of all these parts installed in a 80?
Any chance of running the mechanical fan with this setup, or just go electric?

 

[69rambler]

Perfect. That seals the deal.


Do you happen to have any close-up pics of all these parts installed in a 80?
Any chance of running the mechanical fan with this setup, or just go electric?

Pics very soon. The Dodge Cummins fan fits fine lengthwise, but it's larger diameter than the height of the radiator and hits the hood. The Cummins fan clutch uses a standard 4 bolt fan pattern so with some looking or a call to flexalite I'm sure we can find an off the shelf application that will work with the 80 radiator.

The lower radiator connection with a 5.9 Cummins is going to take a special piece to make all this stuff bolt in. It's too tight for a tight radius silicone 90 so we're going to machine up some aluminum/stainless pieces with some overkill seals to make sure this stuff is a complete bolt in affair with the factory radiator.

 

[adventr]

Yeah, the cummins fan drive sits higher on the engine compared to the 1FZ. I was mainly curious if the motor would set back far enough to squeeze in a mechanical fan.
I've still got a Horton electric fan clutch that I acquired for my suburban, but never got around to installing. It allows a mechanical fan to be engaged (100%) and disengaged (100%) when needed. Much like an a/c compressor clutch works. I plan to use it on my build.


Almost forgot I still had some models laying around for the 12/24v 6BTs (I used to be a licensed upfitter). A few things are different in these models (industrial engines - so no a/c compressor), but they're close enough for me to play around with. I've also got the models for the Cummins Air Compressors (used for applications with air brakes). These mount just under the injection pump, and are BEEFY. Somewhere around 13-15cfm, and are supplied oil from the block and are cooled from the cooling system. If it won't interfere with the frame rail, it will make an excellent OBA setup.

I'll start another thread for my engine build/install.

 

[69rambler]

I can absolutely guarantee you none of the Cummins PTO driven compressors will fit in an 80 series. The smallest single cylinder pumps are huge and interfere with the side engine mount on a 6BT and the mechanical lift pump on a 4BT. The twin cylinder air brake pumps found on many medium trucks are even more over the top. I used one in a mid 90's F-350 4x4 with 5.9 Cummins and the fab to make it all fit was daunting.

 

[69rambler]

This is a 1993 5.9 Cummins engine in a 1994 FJZ80 using the mounts and adapters mentioned above. I apologize for the lighting and clutter.

 

[69rambler]

Hopefully some of the details and clearances present with the engine installed can be discerned from these pictures. I'm better at making things than taking pictures

Some of the pictures show things closer than they actually are. The driver's side of the engine with PS and vacuum pump to the steering box and brake lines has enough room to put your hand between. The entire cylinder head or exhaust manifold can easily be removed in the vehicle, the rear valve cover can come right off for adjusting valves.

Some of the heater coolant hose plumbing will need to be routed differently, but there is room for it to stay on the firewall close to where it was.

Lots of room for whatever size turbo downpipe you want.

 

[69rambler]

The oil pan has 3/4" to the front differential pinion at the closest point and moves further away with suspension compression.

In the last picture the forward edge of the oil pan is in contact with the steering tie rod. There's room to offset the tie rod for pan clearance. This is a 100% factory height 94, no lift, nothing cut. Just the 1FZ removed and 5.9 Cummins dropped in.

 

[adventr]

Excellent! Thanks for the pics, that helps a lot. Looks like there is plenty of clearance around the turbo. Looks like you're running the H1C turbo in the pics. Does it look like there is room for a 4" downpipe?
I'll be running the HE351ve (VGT) turbo on mine, and it has a 4" outlet on it.

 

[adventr]

And yeah, I didn't figure the compressor idea had a snowball's chance of fitting, but you never know...


Anyone else that's reading this, I've attached a couple pics of what I was talking about. Everything shown in "BLUE" is related to the compressor.

 

[69rambler]

Excellent! Thanks for the pics, that helps a lot. Looks like there is plenty of clearance around the turbo. Looks like you're running the H1C turbo in the pics. Does it look like there is room for a 4" downpipe?
I'll be running the HE351ve (VGT) turbo on mine, and it has a 4" outlet on it.

The turbo in the pictures is the original 1993 H1C turbo.

I think 4" is doable with some dimpling here and there if you go between the bellhousing and frame or the sky's the limit if you aren't concerned with ground clearance and run the exhaust outside the frame as the factory did.

Personally I think 3.5" would be the largest I would want to assemble from turbo to the rear bump and keep everything tucked up neat with proper clearance and mounts. I think 4" would be a real bear to squeak through the rear suspension and around the spare tire.

 

[FloridaFJ80]

69rambler - You are making this so tempting. Great pics, so pretty much you are making all the accessories needed to making this a complete bolt-on conversion. While utilizing factory radiator and using your motor mounts, as well as your adapter to our tranny.

I am sure if you take out the guess work form doing this conversion and develop a kit for the conversion, you will have a lot of work on your hands. Only thing missing is the electrical.

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