Does anyone have any specs that could be listed for cruiser driveshaft u-joints and cv joints of all vintages? Also, what about flanges for pigs and t'cases including spline counts?
cruiser u-joint/cv specs (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter BALDYLOX
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DS bolt pattern info is here;
http://www.cruiseroutfitters.com/tech.html
I just got a companion flange from him yesterday that is very cool.
What are ya needing on u-joints?
http://www.cruiseroutfitters.com/tech.html
I just got a companion flange from him yesterday that is very cool.
What are ya needing on u-joints?
- Thread starter
- #3
I'm trying to design a reliable drivetrain for extended excursions. I want a stronger than spicer or saginaw cv at the tcase and decent slip yokes. I'll be doing a SOA w/out a SR. I know the mini/4rnnr drive shafts are decent, but if I remember correctly, the fj60 u-joints and cvs make them look little. I want to over build.
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You'll want a pre-'83 FJ60 front shaft and a pre-'84 (IIRC) Mini front shaft. I've got one of each and have a companion flange from Cruiser Outfitters.
I got mine to the fit the 60 DS and drilled it fit the mini as well. I've drilling my park brake drum to the the CV (3 spd t-case). The 60 and the Mini CV's are the same the bolt pattern but the Mini uses a smaller bolt so I have drilled them out to fit.
Everything I have heard about u-joints for the Toyota stuff is to stay with OEM parts. Not sure if someone is making a HD u-joint to fit the Toy stuff, I just haven't had to look into u-joints yet (thankfully!)
I got mine to the fit the 60 DS and drilled it fit the mini as well. I've drilling my park brake drum to the the CV (3 spd t-case). The 60 and the Mini CV's are the same the bolt pattern but the Mini uses a smaller bolt so I have drilled them out to fit.
Everything I have heard about u-joints for the Toyota stuff is to stay with OEM parts. Not sure if someone is making a HD u-joint to fit the Toy stuff, I just haven't had to look into u-joints yet (thankfully!)
- Thread starter
- #6
Oh how I'd love to, but I'm a full time student.
isint that what student loans are for? 
Toy Stuff is Pretty strong, Plus a u-joint is a not so bad thing to Break (Compared to others i can think of)
Toy Stuff is Pretty strong, Plus a u-joint is a not so bad thing to Break (Compared to others i can think of)
isotel said:
I find this statement and notion rather funny, considering the number of rear axles, front axles, pinions, transfer case output shafts, lockers, and other things that I have seen break, long before the u-joint fails like the fuse it has been insinuated in many posts out here to be. I have yet to see a u-joint that was in good working order up and fail, instead of one of these other components. The torque on a u-joint, compared to that on an axle shaft is considerably less.
Eskimo
SILVER Star
Poser said:
If you follow that link and ask Jesse, he'll tell you Toy stuff, because of their metallurgy, is within a stone's throw of 1350 strength. If you're building a Toyota-based expedition vehicle, IMO, the driveline u-joints are one of the last things to consider, provided they are OEM.
That said, for minitruck CV's, you want the '84-'85 units, not the pre-'84. They user larger bolts for attachment, and are notably stronger according to Jesse. '86+ (also called IFS CV's) can be used as they are the same size, but their angle of operation is very limited, though they can be clearanced.
If your drivetrain includes Dana/GM/etc parts, then by all means, 1350. My t-case is minitruck, and my axles are Toyota, therefore, my driveshafts are Toyota end-to-end. DO have them re-tubed with thicker wall tubing, however.
- Thread starter
- #10
I'm actually building a 9-inch center section. I found driveshaft flanges came from the factory on Lincoln Versales rears. Remachine the center and bolt pattern for toy stuff.
