Cruiser cranks, won't start!

[DMX84]

I've searched and tried just about everything.
It has never not started before, and in fact since I put the Odyssey battery in it has started on the first revolution.

I drove it yesterday, filled up with gas and drove another 12 miles home. Pulled it in the garage. The next morning it only cranks.

I called the dealer to see if they knew any common problems and one said T belt could do it.
I called another dealer and talked to a guy I always use and he confirmed that a broken T belt would allow it to crank without starting. I cranked it while he was on the phone, he said it sounded like it was spinning faster than normal, but not to me?

I'm having a hard time thinking the belt broke over night. I also have a hard time thinking it could crank like nothing is wrong, I mean, wouldn't it have an audible noise in the air intake since one of the intake valves out be opened and the piston would be sucking air in and out of the intake?

Anyone have any suggestions on what to check?
DMX

 

[Rambrush]

Well you have to have spark and fuel plus compression. Do the lights or any accessories light up? puzzling because it does crank but no fire. Have you carefully spritzed some carb cleaner to see if would fire off of that? are the sparkplug wires coil wire in place?

 

[100 TD]

A quick guess at a fuel pump, search here, something fairly recent IIRC, also the immobilizer will stop it.

 

[hoser]

On many overhead cam engines, you can open the oil cap and peek inside while somebody cranks the starter. If anything is moving, then your T-belt is fine. Not sure what you can see on the 2UZ-FE though. I've never looked that closely.

 

[spressomon]

If you think its the t-belt just pull one of the top inspection caps for a relatively quick t-belt inspection.

No codes I assume? Using the same key right? Check spark? Check fuel pumping at filter?

 

[NMuzj100]

Sounds like a key issue to me. Have you added a new key to your ring ? (Other Toyota keys are known to cause interference because the reader detects the wrong key and rejects it)

Troubleshoot the transponder system. Have you tried your back up keys ? or the ignition key by itself.

 

[DMX84]

Well you have to have spark and fuel plus compression. Do the lights or any accessories light up? puzzling because it does crank but no fire. Have you carefully spritzed some carb cleaner to see if would fire off of that? are the sparkplug wires coil wire in place?

All my lights are working, and seem normal. I just put new spark plugs in 2 weeks ago, there is no coil wire per se. I would like to know if there's a ignition
module that could be the problem. As of yet I haven't verified spark, but will the afternoon.

A quick guess at a fuel pump, search here, something fairly recent IIRC, also the immobilizer will stop it.

I checked the symptoms that indicate the immobilizer and I ruled that out.
The fuel pump is an area I have yet to rule out, I'm thinking of using a stethoscope to listen for it running.
If someone knows where a simple hose clamp connection is on the fuel return side, it would be better to check there for flow. This would rule out a pump that spins (sound with no flow) and would rule out a clogged fuel filter too.

If you think its the t-belt just pull one of the top inspection caps for a relatively quick t-belt inspection.

No codes I assume? Using the same key right? Check spark? Check fuel pumping at filter?

On many overhead cam engines, you can open the oil cap and peek inside while somebody cranks the starter. If anything is moving, then your T-belt is fine. Not sure what you can see on the 2UZ-FE though. I've never looked that closely.

Correct no codes, perfectly clean performance record too. Same key.
I'm going to have to verify spark & fuel/filter.
Good idea on the over head cam hoser, but we have that huge snorkel for an oil fill. I'll try to look down is and look for the cam.
If not I'll look for the T belt inspection cover Dan mentioned.

Sounds like a key issue to me. Have you added a new key to your ring ? (Other Toyota keys are known to cause interference because the reader detects the wrong key and rejects it)

Troubleshoot the transponder system. Have you tried your back up keys ? or the ignition key by itself.

The same key and the only key on the key ring, in fact I rarely remove it when I park for the night, as in this case.
My security light does not blink with the key in, and I also tried my other key in hopes that would work.

In my search on here I found a connector for the fuel pump that sometimes get oxidized, mine was fine.

Keep any ideas coming, I'll check the fuel, spark & T belt this afternoon and report back.
Dean

 

[Skidoo]

If you pull the top plastic engine cover a fuel return tube come across the back of the intake manifold. Has a hose clamped there on driver side. Pull hose and put a hose on tube to a container.

 

[DMX84]

I've checked everything that was mentioned and determined it's the fuel pump. I confirmed the EFI relay is working (that is the only one right?). Checked for fuel at the filter and nothing!
I need to make sure there isn't anything else that can control the pump before I dig in.
If anyone has ideas on other stuff like fuses or relays that control the pump let me know. I'm going to do some searching on here and see what joy I can look forward to. I'll call C-Dan and get a price on the pump.
DMX

 

[hoser]

Also check for fuel, as in don't rely on fuel gauge. Shake the LC back and forth and listen for it. Check power at fuel pump. I believe there is also an emergency fuel cut-off switch in the center console. I doubt it tripped but just know it can also be a possibility.

 

[DMX84]

Also check for fuel, as in don't rely on fuel gauge. Shake the LC back and forth and listen for it. Check power at fuel pump. I believe there is also an emergency fuel cut-off switch in the center console. I doubt it tripped but just know it can also be a possibility.

Thanks hoser, it better have gas I just filled it before it died!
But it’s good to know about the fuel cut off switch. I check for power at the connector under the passenger door, (street side) that provides power to the pump.

Can someone give me a diagram for this connector?
IIRC there’s like 4 wires. I’m sure two are probably fuel gage, the + & - for the pump.

 

[spressomon]

Dean: Your PM box is full.

 

[DMX84]

I pulled the connector for the fuel pump and it has power. Only thing I can try at this point is to check for a ground fault that is preventing the pump from pumping.
I'm grabbing at anything at this point.
But, turns out the tank does not need to be removed to do the fuel pump. It's under the middle seat.
I'll keep this posted until it's fixed, I hate searching to find similar postings describing what your looking for to find they never reported back on what they found or how they fixed it.

DMX

 

[DMX84]

It looks like my pump is the problem. I've got power to the pump, and when I try to apply power to the +/- on the pump nothing happens....not even a spark! I do measure some resistance across the leads on the pump.
So at this point I've ruled out everything.
I called c-Dan's part counter guy Jim E. (a fellow Trials rider w/ NMTA) and he's got the part on order.

I'll pull the pump in the mean time to further dig in.......
DMX

 

[DMX84]

Checking the round on the plug side reveals that the round is not working.....
Either I have the wrong ground, or there are two grounds, and one is not working.
Can someone give me a pin call out on this connecter?

 

[100 TD]

Terminals 4 & 5 resistance should be 0.2 - 3.0 ohms @ 20 degrees C /68F

Connect + 12v to terminal 4 & -12v to terminal 5 to test pump function
This must be done for a maximum of 10 seconds. Do all switching at the battery, keep battery away from pump as far as possible, usual safety precautions when possibility of sparks and fuel.

 

[100 TD]

PM me your email if you want some pdf's sent

 

[DMX84]

Terminals 4 & 5 resistance should be 0.2 - 3.0 ohms @ 20 degrees C /68F

Connect + 12v to terminal 4 & -12v to terminal 5 to test pump function
This must be done for a maximum of 10 seconds. Do all switching at the battery, keep battery away from pump as far as possible, usual safety precautions when possibility of sparks and fuel.

PM me your email if you want some pdf's sent

Can you or anyone confirm this is the same as our Land Cruisers?
http://gordosoft.com/echo/How-to-check-fuel-pump.pdf

 

[100 TD]

The info I gave you is for a 100 series petrol 2003, the info you have linked is for a 100 series petrol, same stuff.
I doubt any difference between years. I have some other stuff, but looks like you are set.

 

[DMX84]

The info I posted is actually for a camry....
Just trying to make sure it's the same as a LC.