Crank pulley torque spec?

[Lor]

I'm in the middle of changing the front seal on my '95 LC. I did a quick search and 304 ft-lbs was mentioned. Can someone with a manual (or experienced) confirm this number? Going to have fun taking this bolt of and torque it back on. Know where I can find a torque tool to this spec? Thanks for any help/suggestion.

 

[landtank]

Oh Ya that's the number. A feelow member helped me get it off by placing a socket with a long breakerkar on it againt the frame and hitting the starter to break that bastid loose. Tightening it will require the proper torque wrench and a tool to bolt onto the pulley and rest against the frame to stop it from turning. Short changing this spec might loose you some oil pressire and PS assist.

 

[cruiserdan]

.... Short changing this spec might loose you some oil pressire and PS assist.

Fact...........

The crankshaft drive gear for the oil pump/PS pump is clamped in place by the balancer. There is no keyway.

Loose pulley= no-drivey oil pump....:whoops:

 

[cruiserman]

Find you an 80 lbs person and a 4' long breaker bar . . .

 

[landtoy80]

I used one from work. Its long.
I tried to find one to buy but failed. At least I can use the one at work when ever I need it and I needed it twice.
There is a pic of it and me somewhere out there.

 

[Lor]

Well, thanks for all your help. I busted my wrench trying to loosen the nut/bolt. I just put everything back and drive for now. I will attempt this in the near future with new tools.

 

[clownmidget]

Lor, check out George Scolaro's s/c write up as he gives good advice on how to tackle this. Go get a really good 6-pt socket (32 or 34-mm, can't remember right now) and a 2-ft breaker bar, both in 1/2" drive. For removal, slip the breaker bar in a 4-ft section of black steel pipe (or galvanized if you're spendy). I believe 1" ID will work with most breaker bars - this works on my Craftsman. Remember the engine cranks clockwise, so adjust the breaker/pipe to rest on the bottom of the PS frame rail. I also strap it there with some webbing so it stays put. Pull the lead on the distributor and hit the starter and it's over.

 

[Rich]

3/4 inch drive is a good size to use for this kind of torque.

 

[cruiserdan]

Do not use 1/2 inch stuff if you are going to utilize the starter. I broke a 1/2 inch breaker and so did a friend of mine. This is at least the second one I have heard of breaking other than the two I have personally seen. Eventually I used 3/4 inch stuff.

 

[landtoy80]

Get a 3/4" socket set (the one made in china works fine) if you can't find the metric a standard/inch set works fine, thats what I have.
Get a long pipe and use it as a braker bar. A big crow bar works fine to hold the pulley. There are groves in the pulley where you can stick the crowbar. I fit the crowbar between the frame and pulley. After it pops off several times you will find the sweet spot and the bolt will come off.
I have done it twice.

 

[Lars]

Get a 3/4" socket set (the one made in china works fine) if you can't find the metric a standard/inch set works fine, thats what I have.
Get a long pipe and use it as a braker bar. A big crow bar works fine to hold the pulley. There are groves in the pulley where you can stick the crowbar. I fit the crowbar between the frame and pulley. After it pops off several times you will find the sweet spot and the bolt will come off.
I have done it twice.

I used a crowbar (snap-on pry bar) to hold mine and then zapped it off with an impact... a strong one.

 

[landtoy80]

I used a crowbar (snap-on pry bar) to hold mine and then zapped it off with an impact... a strong one.

You must of removed the radiator.

 

[cruiserdan]

He was doing a head gasket.

 

[landtoy80]

I was just going to pull the rad. There is nothing JUST about pulling the rad.
What a PITA it is trying to pull the rad. I gave up and used crowbar.

 

[clownmidget]

Well I agree 3/4" is better, safer and the way to go. But I used the same 1/2" Craftsman stuff the three times I have removed and retorqued the crank shaft pulley bolt (using a big-ass torque wrench for the last part of course).
Mike

 

[scottm]

There are groves in the pulley where you can stick the crowbar.

I don't see grooves in mine, where are they exactly? I bought a couple hardened shoulder bolts to put in the holes in the pulley and pry against, but I'm not sure they'll hold that kind of force.

How hard does the pulley come off the crank once the bolt is off? I think my pullers are too big to fit with the radiator in place.

 

[cruiserdan]

Mine slid right off the crank, no problem. Rotate the crank so the keyway faces upward so the key doesn't fall into the pan. Be prepared for the weight when in comes off, it will surprise you.

 

[Lars]

He was doing a head gasket.

Thanks a lot! I had, up until this point, successfully supressed that nightmare from memory.

You must of removed the radiator.

Thats right, front engine accessories and radiator were removed.

 

[cruiserdan]

Well,


Sorry.



I did OK though.........