Cracked plastic oil filter housing

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From whatever I understood, the problem with aftermarket is that there is no warranty that bypass valve spring is able to maintain the same pressure as in oem housing. That could potentially allow oil by pass all the time or oil starvation if the spring is too strong.

Aluminum housing from Toyota should have been fine overall as long as the tube is the same length.
I was asking about the Aluminum Toyota (Venza) not aftermarket. Has your research found problems experienced like the Toyota plastic version?
 

bloc

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Car care nut just did a video on this. He did some teardowns answering all this.
I can't wrap my head around how the bypass function works when the force exerted by incoming oil against a clogged filter is inwards (this is why they collapse, and why there is a support tube), not downwards (which is what is needed to compress the spring, moving the filter downwards and creating a bypass circuit)..

 

CharlieS

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From whatever I understood, the problem with aftermarket is that there is no warranty that bypass valve spring is able to maintain the same pressure as in oem housing. That could potentially allow oil by pass all the time or oil starvation if the spring is too strong.

Aluminum housing from Toyota should have been fine overall as long as the tube is the same length.
The aluminum part is from a Toyota Venza, and is not aftermarket. It works fine in my personal experience. Not as refined as the BJowett, but good enough, and certainly better than the stock plastic housing.
 

AnyMal

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I can't wrap my head around how the bypass function works when the force exerted by incoming oil against a clogged filter is inwards (this is why they collapse, and why there is a support tube), not downwards (which is what is needed to compress the spring, moving the filter downwards and creating a bypass circuit)..



My guess would be static pressure, and by that time the design fail mode fails “safe” and doesn’t care about also collapsing the filter, and the tube keeps it from clogging the inside return path at the same time?

Still debating what to do with filter housing long term but i don’t have issues with mine.

A pan drain valve though to be able to actually use the drain door? That i need yesterday.

That new fangled topside filter mod makes me a bit nervous too. Thats not an area i feel comfortable playing in. 10W-40 though idk yet maybe lol. Truck sounds like a diesel.
 

AnyMal

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He makes a really big deal about swapping over the center stand in the caps. As a business owner, I get it, there's liability there for him and his shop and it's simply not worth it. However it's not hard to do and really easy to make sure everything is properly attached. If done properly, it's not a big deal at all.
 

bloc

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He makes a really big deal about swapping over the center stand in the caps. As a business owner, I get it, there's liability there for him and his shop and it's simply not worth it. However it's not hard to do and really easy to make sure everything is properly attached. If done properly, it's not a big deal at all.
I think he's assuming many people watching his videos can't be trusted to bend the tabs correctly.. and he may be right.
 
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With the engine lubrication system being one if not the most important system on your engine, my thought all along has been not to mess with it. From putting in an adaptor and using screw on filters to relocating the filter using some aftermarket deal to changing the housing from plastic to aluminum.

Happy AMD aka The Car Care Nut is shining some light on this.

You indeed have to think for a moment why Toyota Japan would deliver the Land Cruiser with the plastic cartridge as it is, given reliability is priority. Beside the points mentioned by AMD, the plastic housing has an advantage over the aluminum part. It prevents any thread or seal damage to the female receiving part on the engine.

The only thing I will look for once I start changing my own oil (for now doing at Toyota being in the initial warranty period, just for simplicity in case an infant issue arises) is a tool like this to prevent damage removing and installing the filter housing. And not screw it on with excessive torque (25Nm or 18ftlbs).


1668798968045.png



In addition:
- Buy OEM filter cartridges at the local Toyota dealer ship
- Probably get 0W-30 or 5W-30 full synthetic, since the 0W-20 seems a US regulatory thing instead of what is used globally on the 3UR-FE

From non US manuals:
1668800803604.png
 
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I'm likely going to go with 5w30 on my next change. My daughters Xterra uses that and it's just easier to have more of the same weights of oil on the garage shelf
 

AnyMal

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I'm likely going to go with 5w30 on my next change. My daughters Xterra uses that and it's just easier to have more of the same weights of oil on the garage shelf

highly recommend
 
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I thought about it for my last oil change but I had some 0w20 still and wanted to use it all
 

bloc

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With the engine lubrication system being one if not the most important system on your engine, my thought all along has been not to mess with it. From putting in an adaptor and using screw on filters to relocating the filter using some aftermarket deal to changing the housing from plastic to aluminum.

Happy AMD aka The Car Care Nut is shining some light on this.

You indeed have to think for a moment why Toyota Japan would deliver the Land Cruiser with the plastic cartridge as it is, given reliability is priority. Beside the points mentioned by AMD, the plastic housing has an advantage over the aluminum part. It prevents any thread or seal damage to the female receiving part on the engine.

The only thing I will look for once I start changing my own oil (for now doing at Toyota being in the initial warranty period, just for simplicity in case an infant issue arises) is a tool like this to prevent damage removing and installing the filter housing. And not screw it on with excessive torque (25Nm or 18ftlbs).


View attachment 3171702


In addition:
- Buy OEM filter cartridges at the local Toyota dealer ship
- Probably get 0W-30 or 5W-30 full synthetic, since the 0W-20 seems a US regulatory thing instead of what is used globally on the 3UR-FE

From non US manuals:
View attachment 3171731
If fear of damage to the female portion of the filter stand were an issue they wouldn’t have used aluminum on the Venza.

My gut is Toyota figured between the splash shields and the recessed position they didn’t think physical damage was much of a concern so went with the plastic since it’s cheaper and already so prevalent in their supply chain.

But yeah as long as it’s not over-torqued I don’t see any problem sticking with the original plastic part.

And yes 5-30 is a good move.. it does a great job of reducing the valvetrain noise these engines produce, even if it clearly isn’t harmful. But another change or two with 0-20 will be perfectly fine as well.
 

AnyMal

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One of these days on a new filter im going to try some lucas or 10w-40.
 

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