Cracked plastic oil filter housing

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Went to do a first oil change and the plastic oil filter housing cracked straight through, the dealer must have put it on way too tight, so in a pinch oriley has a dorman aluminum filter housing, anyone use this? I need this back on the road today and can’t wait to order parts. Thanks

6CDC750B-DB57-4B00-A307-891751B7A350.jpeg
 
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I've never run into this, but the plastic housing is a source of many complaints. Several other Toyota models use an aluminium version that fits directly, if you remove the tube that the filter slides onto and replace with your original one. @bjowett sells a slick kit that's billet aluminum. In the pinch you are in, the Dorman product will work fine. Although I've never used that one specifically, I've had good results with Dorman aftermarket products on many vehicles.
 

grinchy

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That’s fine. You can also get the venza housing from Toyota and move over the perforated metal core. Takes 2 min
 
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I've never run into this, but the plastic housing is a source of many complaints. Several other Toyota models use an aluminium version that fits directly, if you remove the tube that the filter slides onto and replace with your original one. @bjowett sells a slick kit that's billet aluminum. In the pinch you are in, the Dorman product will work fine. Although I've never used that one specifically, I've had good results with Dorman aftermarket products on many vehicles.
Certainly a source of complaint from me. Thanks for the info. I’ll try this thing out. Can’t believe this thing cracked straight through
 

turbo8

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I think another member here used the dorman housing. The housing worked fine but the drain plug cracked. You can use your original drain plug instead.

I'll try to find the thread.
 
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I think another member here used the dorman housing. The housing worked fine but the drain plug cracked. You can use your original drain plug instead.

I'll try to find the thread.
Great intel, thank you. I’ll stick with the factory drain plug
 
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Replaced with Dorman metal
Housing, used the factory drain plug, seemed to fit good and no leaks, tightened up and threaded fine.
 

bloc

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Replaced with Dorman metal
Housing, used the factory drain plug, seemed to fit good and no leaks, tightened up and threaded fine.
Was the filter support tube the same length as your stock one?

The OE metal part isn’t very expensive if you’d like to upgrade to something a little more reliable. As I remember it the drain valve on the above linked one was leaky… though that doesn’t matter when everything is buttoned up.
 
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Was the filter support tube the same length as your stock one?

The OE metal part isn’t very expensive if you’d like to upgrade to something a little more reliable. As I remember it the drain valve on the above linked one was leaky… though that doesn’t matter when everything is buttoned up.
There were a couple different size filter tubes and one was the same as stock. Yea, I’ll be me up grabbing a factory one at some point I just needed the car back on the road today.
 
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After the second oil change, I ended up ordering a metal Venza based filter housing. Swapped out the filter tube over and have not had any worries since. If you do replace it with another plastic one, I would recommend a metal Venza official one. Amazon delivered mine the very next day.
 
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If someone needs the Venza cap, let me know. I bought one and never put it on, then scored a Jowett cap I'm going to use instead...
 
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Same thing happened to me during the first oil change after a purchase of the cruiser. This happens because retards less intelligent technicians at the dealer ship over tighten it by a lot.

Had to buy a replacement, after some research didn’t find metal one to be any better the plastic and just went with original OEM part. After 5 oil changes and using a torque wrench every time never had an issue.
 
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Same thing happened to me during the first oil change after a purchase of the cruiser. This happens because retards less intelligent technicians at the dealer ship over tighten it by a lot.

Had to buy a replacement, after some research didn’t find metal one to be any better the plastic and just went with original OEM part. After 5 oil changes and using a torque wrench every time never had an issue.
Tell me what your research found around the metal (Venza) replacement. Why was this not any better? I think the assumption is these metal replacement is created with better tolerances than plastic.
 

bloc

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I always interpreted it as the plastic works fine as long as it isn't over tightened. But if it is, the aluminum gives more strength and resiliancy to get things loose.

Personally I also dislike the idea of the integrity of my oiling system depend on plastic parts for a few hundred thousand miles.
 
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Tell me what your research found around the metal (Venza) replacement. Why was this not any better? I think the assumption is these metal replacement is created with better tolerances than plastic.
From whatever I understood, the problem with aftermarket is that there is no warranty that bypass valve spring is able to maintain the same pressure as in oem housing. That could potentially allow oil by pass all the time or oil starvation if the spring is too strong.

Aluminum housing from Toyota should have been fine overall as long as the tube is the same length.
 

bloc

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From whatever I understood, the problem with aftermarket is that there is no warranty that bypass valve spring is able to maintain the same pressure as in oem housing. That could potentially allow oil by pass all the time or oil starvation if the spring is too strong.

Aluminum housing from Toyota should have been fine overall as long as the tube is the same length.
I don’t have a filter cap here to inspect but was pretty sure all the spring does is hold the filter snug against the intended spot so it actually filters, and if there is a bypass it was further up inside the housing.
 

AnyMal

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Car care nut just did a video on this. He did some teardowns answering all this.
 

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