How much am i expectiating to pay for a rusted and leaking oil pan on a 88 FJ-62. Including labor if it has to be replaced or if they can patch it up.
thanks in advance
thanks in advance
Cracked Oil Pan
- Thread starter WayOutWest
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There is one on ebay right now for $25. Or you can get a new one off of spector off road (SOR) for $50. It is also going to cost 5-10 bucks for a gasket. I have no idea how much it will cost to have it done for you. If i were you I would just do it myself. It isn't that hard. 
- Thread starter
- #3
well im sixteen and dont have any tools. but i would if i did. i would like to do as much as i possiably can.
but what tools would i need to be able to do it my self
but what tools would i need to be able to do it my self
As far as I know you'll only need a 12mm socket, a rachet, and a good size rachet extension, possiably a scraper to get old gasket material off.
Toyota will charge you $200 in labor for this, not including the new oil pan. I know, I had them try to sell me on this the last time I was in.
You should take that $200 and go buy some good tools at sears, get craftsman- they have a lifetime warranty!
Toyota will charge you $200 in labor for this, not including the new oil pan. I know, I had them try to sell me on this the last time I was in.
You should take that $200 and go buy some good tools at sears, get craftsman- they have a lifetime warranty!
Yeah, now is the best time to invest in some good tools. I'm with Doc on Craftsman, though Snap On is very good too. I like good quality tools.
The oil pan will not be hard to do. In fact, it would be a good first time wrenching project. Drain the oil, unscrew all the bolts, clean up any mess including old gasket material, and slap you new one on. Make sure your vehicle is properly supported when you jack it up.
Good luck.
ben
The oil pan will not be hard to do. In fact, it would be a good first time wrenching project. Drain the oil, unscrew all the bolts, clean up any mess including old gasket material, and slap you new one on. Make sure your vehicle is properly supported when you jack it up.
Good luck.
ben
I just had to replace my oil pan gasket. So if you end up doing it your self just drain the oil, unscrew all the bolts. Here is were I ran into a problem, the gasket was glued onto the oil pan and it took about 2 hours of chiseling away at the cork gasket. After that it is smooth sailing. I am with you. I am only 17 and i didn't have any tools. I just bought some though. I got a great set of craftsman tools for $150 and it has everything I need. It is well worth it. Good luck.
Don't bother trying to fix the old pan. A new pan from the dealer will cost around $100. Before you install it, give it a quick sanding with some 150-grit sand paper, then spray a couple of coats of Rustoleum satin black paint on it. Then fill the gap between that silly "skidplate" and the bottom of the pan with black RTV, this will keep mud from creeping in there and rusting out the bottom of the pan where the spot welds are. Ask me how I know this can happen:
The worst part of the job is getting the old pan off. The old hardened cork gasket will act like concrete keeping that pan on. Put the stock screw jack between the old pan and the frame rail, crank on it and it will bust the gasket free. Since you're putting a new pan on anyway, it won't matter if you bend the old one.
You will also need a tube of RTV sealant, put a dab of it at the sharp corners of the gasket where it wraps around the crank bearings. Be very careful on torquing the bolts with the new cork gasket. I don't remember what the torque spec is, but it isn't much.
The worst part of the job is getting the old pan off. The old hardened cork gasket will act like concrete keeping that pan on. Put the stock screw jack between the old pan and the frame rail, crank on it and it will bust the gasket free. Since you're putting a new pan on anyway, it won't matter if you bend the old one.
You will also need a tube of RTV sealant, put a dab of it at the sharp corners of the gasket where it wraps around the crank bearings. Be very careful on torquing the bolts with the new cork gasket. I don't remember what the torque spec is, but it isn't much.
i just got oil pan for mine at dealer for $120
Toyota sells their parts to dealer by region. For example: I buy parts in both the Mid-Atlantic region and the South-East region. For some reason the South-East has some sort of price fixing going on because without fail ... parts are bunches cheaper in the Mid-Atlantic region. Even if I go to different Toyota Dealers the above is true ... most of the time, I'm sure there is an exception.
Some sorta rumor that the Toyota Parts for South-East has a private ownership choke point ... or should I say gouge point ???
Go figure ...
Cahil
Some sorta rumor that the Toyota Parts for South-East has a private ownership choke point ... or should I say gouge point ???
Go figure ...
Cahil
I had the sevice manager of one of my local Toyota dealerships (south east) tell me the same story.
dd113 said:
OK, this is odd. I went and dug out the receipt from 2 summers ago. Part #12101-61030, bought 7/18/02. List is $170.99, I paid $113.08, which is a 33% discount?!?! I usually get 20%. Not sure what I did to get that deal, but I'm not gonna argue.
Anyway, that's my story, and I'm sticking to it.
southeast toyota (SET) is the distributor for both vehicles and parts in the southeast - and they buy their stuff from toyota motor sales, usa and get to mark stuff up. mid-south dealers have their own private distributor, also, gulf-states toyota (GST), same deal, but they mark stuff up a little less. in the west, mid-west, and east you can buy vehicles and parts cheaper since they don't have a middle-man taking their cut.
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- #14
well im getting the whole thing done at the local toyota dealership for 350. Local mechanic said 800 so im saving quit a bit.
