Couldn't take it any longer, it was time to take a look under my windshield trim (1 Viewer)

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I just had my windshield replaced by a highly rated place. I could tell the guy really cared about his work product, fully understood rivets v screws, had the low profile rivet gun, etc.

Well, now I have wind noise from the top edge of the glass - even going as slow as 30 MPH. He's coming back tomorrow to take a look. I guess these windshields really are tricky to get right, especially when OEM glass isn't used.
 
I took my truck for a spin this morning after having 2 of 4 PS rivets in and wind noise greatly reduced. I was able to get the other 2 rivets in today so PS side completed. I took the plastic sheathing off the toyota rivet and put it on the new rivets which were a little larger. I am not sure if it held but I'd imagine so. I coated it with windshield adhesive as well. Drilling out one broken rivet on the DS tomorrow before a trip to death valley this w/e.
 
The key to all these problems removing the 'outside moulding' is to not use a drill bigger than 4mm (0.16 in.) to remove the OEM rivets.

I had the same problem, some numbskull windsheild fitter had done a bodge job in the past removing and refitting my windsheild, I simply filled the over size holes in the 'A' pillar and drilled the new holes slightly further up when refitting the moulding, no probs since.

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Just recently did a windshield replacement/rust remediation. Was able to use Toyota rivets on about five of the holes but the other three were too large. I sourced some aluminum rivets and used a heat shrink sleeve and installed with care.

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Also forgot to say, wind noise is the least of your problems with poorly fitted outside mouldings, as the holes for the pop rivets are open all the way down inside the 'A' pillar to the inside of the kick panles where the fuse boxes are, water ingress at this point not only will cause rust but will cause probs with said fuse boxes, and is one of the causes of water in your front foot wells.

So this is why Toyota used pop rivets with plastic covers over the ends, A) to seal the holes, and prob, B) to stop rust caused from metal on metal contact.

Here in the UK we have an annual stringent check of most motor vehicles, commonly known a an MOT, one of the things checked is the windshield for chips and cracks, if any are found then you can't use your car on the public highway until you windshield is repaired or replaced.

Thankfully, I had done some reserch prior to having my last screen fitted, and removed the outside molding before the fitter arrived, and refitted them after he had fitted the new screen.

In effect, the used outside mouldings should not be reused IMO.

Wind noise is usually as a result of the part of the outside moulding that is stuck down with good quality double-sided tape, onto the roof gutter, not fitted properly, see picture above entitled 'protective tape'
 
I struggled with additional water leaks even after replacing the windshield and ensuring the side moldings were properly secured with rivets. Ended up having the windshield pulled and took the opportunity to do a mod that another forum member had mentioned but never ended up doing to my knowledge. I installed rivet nuts in the oversized holes. To ensure a water tight seal I used some 3M marine sealant around the rivet nuts when installing, then used thread sealant on the bolts and made a butyl "o-ring" between the trim and body. No more leaks and no wind noise! The best part is it will make removing and installing future windshields much easier, which unfortunately I have to do again since I just got a large crack.
Fantastic idea and hoping to do this too. Can you give any details as to size of rivet nuts, bolts, and what you used to put it together? Was there enough clearance for a rivnut tool or did you do the bolt/nut trick?
 
Fantastic idea and hoping to do this too. Can you give any details as to size of rivet nuts, bolts, and what you used to put it together? Was there enough clearance for a rivnut tool or did you do the bolt/nut trick?
I used 4mm rivnuts for all but one of the holes. That one required a 5mm rivnut due to the size of the existing hole from oversized screws. I had ordered some super low profile rivnuts from McMaster because I though the flange head might cause issues with the trim sitting flush against the windshield frame. The 5mm rivnut was a standard flange style and it ended up working fine. I installed all mine with a special rivet tool but you will need to do so when the windshield is out so you have clearance for the tool.
 
I used 4mm rivnuts for all but one of the holes. That one required a 5mm rivnut due to the size of the existing hole from oversized screws. I had ordered some super low profile rivnuts from McMaster because I though the flange head might cause issues with the trim sitting flush against the windshield frame. The 5mm rivnut was a standard flange style and it ended up working fine. I installed all mine with a special rivet tool but you will need to do so when the windshield is out so you have clearance for the tool.
Thanks for the info!
 
Can someone give me a hint on this "Outer Moulding No. 2" - how does it fit? My cruiser never had these pieces (windshield was replaced). I bought these trim pieces and they are a flat piece of rubber with a small groove on one side. Does this flat strip simply wedge into the U-shaped outer trim and lay flat against the rivets?
 
Can someone give me a hint on this "Outer Moulding No. 2" - how does it fit? My cruiser never had these pieces (windshield was replaced). I bought these trim pieces and they are a flat piece of rubber with a small groove on one side. Does this flat strip simply wedge into the U-shaped outer trim and lay flat against the rivets?
Yes. It wedges into the u shaped trim and covers up the rivet heads

If I recall correctly, the orientation will be self evident once you go to install it.
 
Went through this thread and I think I know the part numbers. Just need some help confirming before I drop money on them. I just bought this 100 series and noticed the passenger side moulding (weather stripping) was lifting up where it meets the roof rack end cap/cover.

It looks like the strip that sits in the inside of the channel is not fitting into the channel of the moulding (garnish?) that is riveted to the A pillar. This is the piece that seems to have gotten bent upward and no longer follows the natural curve of the roof line.

Trying to determine if I need to replace or if I can pry it out a bit more, apply some heat and bend/curve it back.

Thoughts?

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Went through this thread and I think I know the part numbers. Just need some help confirming before I drop money on them. I just bought this 100 series and noticed the passenger side moulding (weather stripping) was lifting up where it meets the roof rack end cap/cover.

It looks like the strip that sits in the inside of the channel is not fitting into the channel of the moulding (garnish?) that is riveted to the A pillar. This is the piece that seems to have gotten bent upward and no longer follows the natural curve of the roof line.

Trying to determine if I need to replace or if I can pry it out a bit more, apply some heat and bend/curve it back.

Thoughts?

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You can definitely try that. I've had mixed success with a good cleaning and 3M Trim tape. Previous window installs had left a bunch of crap in the track, old tape, old silicone, old black rtv. Eventually got new window trim and the proper rivets and even the new trim had trouble staying down on one side.
 
You can definitely try that. I've had mixed success with a good cleaning and 3M Trim tape. Previous window installs had left a bunch of crap in the track, old tape, old silicone, old black rtv. Eventually got new window trim and the proper rivets and even the new trim had trouble staying down on one side.
Thanks. Does anyone know if water ingress will happen if I’m driving in rain with the weather strip like this? I read that the only point of ingress is the bolt holes for the roof racks. Curious if this is true or not.
 
After reading this thread I'm going to do a replacement of the moulding, about to place a parts order. Here's what I have...
  • 1x Toyota 75533-60060 Garnish/Moulding, Windshield, Outside RH​

  • 1x Toyota 75543-60020 Moulding, Windshield, Outside RH​

  • 4x Toyota 90269-04053 Rivet​

  • Arrow RH200 rivet gun​

  • 3M Super Strength Molding Tape​

I think this covers it, what am I missing? The only question I have is whether the riveted 775533 Garnish/Moulding also covers the channel just in front of the roof rack covers. There's a wider strip there and it looks like might be a separate third piece that compliments the 75533 and 75543. I don't have a P/N for it though.

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For anyone tackling this job and ordering moulding from Toyota Parts Deal, this is how they packed and shipped the $160 outer moulding (that rivets to the A pillar). Don’t have the right box? Just bend it in half and stuff it in. Make sure to bend it too. Awesome!

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parts souk was the best place to order those metal side trims. They put them in a wooden box.
I'd order from them again or directly from a dealer. No other way.

I have windshield replacement # two in the on deck circle.
I'm contemplating that one thread from a while ago talking about the tacoma windshield trim method install.
 
parts souk was the best place to order those metal side trims. They put them in a wooden box.
I'd order from them again or directly from a dealer. No other way.

I have windshield replacement # two in the on deck circle.
I'm contemplating that one thread from a while ago talking about the tacoma windshield trim method install.

I almost went with PartSouk, but figured I’d be waiting longer for shipping from UAE. I’m still surprised anyone would bend a part to make it fit the shipping box.

I’m not familiar with the Tacoma method. The way in which these are held on with rivets seems suboptimal
 


not that I endorse that thread, but there it is.
 

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