Costa Fabrications intro and offerings. (6 Viewers)

[RDC76]

285/75/16 or nearly a 33". I think slightly larger can still fit in the factory location. Mine comes back to just at the round bar that is just ahead of the rear crossmember. I'm kind of surprised you went this direction, for a tighter fit/departure?

If you mean by direction cutting the crossmember , I know. Originally I was thinking I wouldn't. But after looking at it i decided it would let me have more design options with less interference. And it's quite easy to remove. I did it with the most basic tools to see what people would have to deal with when removing it. No plasma. Lol. I only used a Sawzall, large adjustable wrench and a grinder to take down what was left. So after doing so I'm fine with removing it.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Thanks Jason! I'll let you know if I need anything. I think what jeffro109 said is what I needed. Just wanted to know how far I can come under or into the truck with the receiver stuff and not interfere with the spare.

Just let me know, glad to help you in anyway I can.

J

 

[RDC76]

Just let me know, glad to help you in anyway I can.

J

Thanks Jason, much appreciated

 

[lcwizard]

The thing is..as the builder if you are going to advertise it as able to tow, you don't want to compromise the towing integrity for a spare position
if the carrier already carries the spare. If the tire interferes with the tow structure, you're better leaving the hitch out and letting the liability
rest with the makers of the under frame hitch that dealers provide. They've got better lawyers. You can attempt disclaimers all day long but at the end of the day compromising a hitch and thinking you can call it a class 1 and assume your safe won't protect you. You're better building a class 5 rated and calling it a 3

 

[RDC76]

The thing is..as the builder if you are going to advertise it as able to tow, you don't want to compromise the towing integrity for a spare position
if the carrier already carries the spare. If the tire interferes with the tow structure, you're better leaving the hitch out and letting the liability
rest with the makers of the under frame hitch that dealers provide. They've got better lawyers. You can attempt disclaimers all day long but at the end of the day compromising a hitch and thinking you can call it a class 1 and assume your safe won't protect you. You're better building a class 5 rated and calling it a 3

I just pulled all the original spare tire stuff off and said forget building around it. Lol
Good timing. I'm drawing plates to cut now.
And thanks again Dave for all the sound advice!

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

I just had my attorney go through this with my PLI carrier... Per my PLI "The Toyota Land Cruiser 80 series doesn't meet the safety criteria even for a class 1 towing attachment per our safety parameter guidelines and underwriting procedures." They base this off the original OEM factory specs for HP, torque and tow capacity and then run a deterioration % factor pending the age of the vehicle. This is why it is getting almost impossible to find an aftermarket Valley, Reese, Draw-Tite, U-Haul, etc bolt on receiver for the 40, 55 and 60 series. The 80 is trending shortly behind.

They would not approve my 80 bumper design with an incorporated "towing" hitch no matter how I beefed it up. But, approved it as an accessory receiver rated for 3750#. So, a DISCLAIMER will be posted on all 80 rear bumper sales that the attachment is for accessories only. NOT SUITABLE FOR VEHICLE/TRAILER TOWING per my attorney and PLI carrier.

Yes, my attorney is good and not some guy that just has the title like most out there. He and his firm have been our family, company and trust attorney for over 40 years.

J

 

[RDC76]

I just had my attorney go through this with my PLI carrier... Per my PLI "The Toyota Land Cruiser 80 series doesn't meet the safety criteria even for a class 1 towing attachment per our safety parameter guidelines and underwriting procedures." They base this off the original OEM factory specs for HP, torque and tow capacity and then run a deterioration % factor pending the age of the vehicle. This is why it is getting almost impossible to find an aftermarket Valley, Reese, Draw-Tite, U-Haul, etc bolt on receiver for the 40, 55 and 60 series. The 80 is trending shortly behind.

They would not approve my 80 bumper design with an incorporated "towing" hitch no matter how I beefed it up. But, approved it as an accessory receiver rated for 3750#. So, a DISCLAIMER will be posted on all 80 rear bumper sales that the attachment is for accessories only. NOT SUITABLE FOR VEHICLE/TRAILER TOWING per my attorney and PLI carrier.

Yes, my attorney is good and not some guy that just has the title like most out there. He and his firm have been our family, company and trust attorney for over 40 years.

J

Thanks Jason,
That's good enough for me. I'm in the process of looking into insurance now even though i was told it is not required for llc's in my state so I'm told??

 

[RDC76]

Also I would like to say..... NEVER have I seen or experienced such respect,common courtesy,welcoming and willingness to help someone in the same craft than on here and from Jason and Dave . It is much appreciated and respected....
I type this as I'm lying on the ground under my truck tacking things up under my big tent in the rain. As I watch a huge puddle grow closer . My truck does not fit in my two car workshop. But I'm close to being able to bring the bumper in for more welding. Then I need to make a fixture for this guy.
And thank you again to everyone else for the continued support and kind words of my work.. puddles getting closer I gotta go. Lol

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Thanks Jason,
That's good enough for me. I'm in the process of looking into insurance now even though i was told it is not required for llc's in my state so I'm told??

I use Colonial Penn for my PLI. They are pretty easy to work with and I can roll my other insurances in with them as well.

Also I would like to say..... NEVER have I seen or experienced such respect,common courtesy,welcoming and willingness to help someone in the same craft than on here and from Jason and Dave . It is much appreciated and respected....
I type this as I'm lying on the ground under my truck tacking things up under my big tent in the rain. As I watch a huge puddle grow closer . My truck does not fit in my two car workshop. But I'm close to being able to bring the bumper in for more welding. Then I need to make a fixture for this guy.
And thank you again to everyone else for the continued support and kind words of my work.. puddles getting closer I gotta go. Lol

I do all I can to help everyone when I can, if they are willing to listen. All I can do is offer my life experience as they may pertain to help you or whoever. I hate seeing failure and supportting the guys on this forum is a pleasure for me. When I'm slammed, I refer business to you, Tim @Gamiviti, Dave @4Plus, Stan @NCFJ , etc..

I had a lot of help in my earlier years when I had my vessel code shop and NEC-UL cable tray mfg business. I'm the blacksheep of my family. Great Granddad was a partner in The Norgren Co, Father is an attorney, Mother is a CPA and sister is a transplant surgeon @ Mayo. Me, I never liked the classroom, unless it was shop, drawing, architecture etc.. So, I learned business skills and spills from the front line. So, my Granddad was always talking business, my Father is forever telling me the law on MANY THINGS, my Mother is usually 10000% correct on monetary items and well my sister and I don't know what the hell the other one does so we talk about the weather and baseball... HA!

Overall great group of guys here!

J

 

[lcwizard]

Thanks Jason,
That's good enough for me. I'm in the process of looking into insurance now even though i was told it is not required for llc's in my state so I'm told??

If you stay away from roll cages or products that imply that they can save your life, you shouldn't need product liability as long as you continue to build quality stuff that you no you have cut no corners to save costs. In 27 years I've literally built over 3000 bumpers and carrier. Never once have I been suggested in a lawsuit over a failure or suggestion that my product was cause of operator injury or death. Over the years I've been interviewed by reps from, Farmers , State farm, Hartford and AAA concerning accidents that my bumpers were involved in. Every conclusion was the same. The operator was better protected with the bumper than with stock. The Farmers rep even knew my product before he arrived.
He'd come across it in previous claims. He said his company appreciated not having to pay for the extra body work that would have happened to the 60 involved had they had the stock bumper.
The day after an accident in Phoenix involving a bumper I'd built on a Bronco two guys from the responding fire department came by to set up
time for bumpers on their trucks. One was a 69 Jimmy, the other a Pathfinder. Apparently an Accord ran a light and got hit in the rear corner and spun facing traffic. the Bronco hit it head on and climbed up over the hood , peeling it back. The occupants of the accord were shaken but OK . The accord started on fire. The Bronco threw it in reverse and backed of the car. He needed new paint. The Accord was a bon fire.
Just build your product with the thought in mind that someone's children might be riding in this truck. If it's not good enough for your kids, it's not worth building.
If in the back of your mind , you have a part that you think may better built from 1/2" stock, don't substitute for 1/4 because it's easier or cheaper. Any individual component failure can lead to a cascade of successive failures . Crumple zones are for the guy who pulls out in front of you. You can show me all the videos in the world of how well a Smart car hold up in a crash but given the choice , in a head on , I'll pick the 5000 lb 60 or 80 with a set of unforgiving bumpers

 

[RDC76]

Some updates on the rear. The main bumper section is pretty much all together and i may throw a coat of paint on it tomorrow so people interested in just a bumper with no swingouts can see how it looks. Im not sure of the weight yet but i installed it myself without a jack or stands. It is held on with 14 bolts 10 of which are factory threaded holes and 4 are 1/2" bolts i added utilizing existing holes on the frame.you just need to drill through the other side of the rail. Here are some pics before i put the swingouts together next week. The anvil surround on the receiver is the my signature anvil from my logo. It may not be on the final bumpers. (Unless people want it of course) this is bare bones no tube work version. Clean and strong.

 

[RDC76]

The added frame bolts and the accessory receiver mount. The anvil is cut from 1/4" and is shown before i cleaned the spatter.

 

[RDC76]

The bumper is extremely strong. And the wings are stout. I was able to jack the truck up with a 60" high lift to the point my coil spring was loose. And the wing just touched the flare. That was with NO braces from the wings to the frame. Ill be adding braces and it will be ready for expedition and rocks!

time for coil retainers or slinky's....

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

R,

Looks good. Reminds me a lot of Sean's old bumpers, but with a little more finesse. Keep it up!

J

 

[RDC76]

R,

Looks good. Reminds me a lot of Sean's old bumpers, but with a little more finesse. Keep it up!

J

Thanks J.
With not having a press brake and having to span across this big truck tubing seemed like a good choice and brings strength. I've seen seans bumpers . I like his swing away basket design. Yours are coming along nice. I like how you made your tire mount adjustable. Im making a jig so i can slot tube on my plasma table.

Rich

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Thanks J.
With not having a press brake and having to span across this big truck tubing seemed like a good choice and brings strength. I've seen seans bumpers . I like his swing away basket design. Yours are coming along nice. I like how you made your tire mount adjustable. Im making a jig so i can slot tube on my plasma table.

Rich

R,

I bought items to make a swing out basket/accessory spindle, like my swing arm spindles. 3/4" instead of 1-1/2" but never got around to making it. The receiver style baskets, off the ladder, are strong and people like that they can move the basket to many different places when camping and trailing.

My tire mount is pretty primitive but works well. However, I plan to design a fully adjustable (vertical and horizontal) tire mount in the next few months.

J

 

[jeffro109]

So what's the plan for the spare tire when choosing the no swingout builds? Seems like the hitch brace would prevent the stock spare location, but maybe I'm not looking at it right.

 

[RDC76]

So what's the plan for the spare tire when choosing the no swingout builds? Seems like the hitch brace would prevent the stock spare location, but maybe I'm not looking at it right.

That postion of the hitch brace is back like that on mine cause i was looking at possibly adding a rear storage space in that area on the bumper . I also pulled down my stock tire carrier because i have someone that wants provisions to mount a extended range fuel cell/tank. Im also planning on setting up for a rear winch . So i need all the area open for mock up. If someone wanted to order a bumper with no swingouts i could easily bring the hitch brace back towards the rear. And you could leave your stock tire in its place. Or.... i was thinking i would look into possibly making a new cross bar that raises the stock spare tire lift. To give you a little extra clearance under the tire. I can build to suit most needs if you are interested on one with out swingouts. Im thinking for the ones with out swingouts ill put some nice aluminum checker plate down like kaymar does on the top surface as it makes a nice standing area to access the back of your roofrack. Or a texture coating. Grey would look nice on a black bumper. Its really up to the end user... thanks for the questions and input.

Rich

 

[lcwizard]

Thanks J.
With not having a press brake and having to span across this big truck tubing seemed like a good choice and brings strength. I've seen seans bumpers . I like his swing away basket design. Yours are coming along nice. I like how you made your tire mount adjustable. Im making a jig so i can slot tube on my plasma table.

Rich

I don't know whether you plan slotting one at a time or not. I usually make 10' of inserts with the 2" x .188 wall. at a time , I cut the 11/16 x 3
slots with 1 1/2" ~2" gaps then part them on the band saw. I've had a table for over 10 years now. Before that , it was the drill two holes and hand plasma between tangents method. For the receiver piece for the tire plate, I cut and drill the parts then do two cuts on the band saw to make the compression slot. I've done it with plasma but the band saw leaves no residue or slag to clean up. The tire plate slips right in.
If you do the slotting of the 2" on the table, be vigilant of the tube lifting or twisting from heat. Your slots start in the center then move about.
I can get 26 parts out of 10 ft but it's easier to control five feet. My nesting program automatically moves the torch about to control heat.
It might cut part #1 then #12, 7,20 and so on.

I like the anvil. It's classier than my simple square ring and it does reinforce the outer edge to help reduce ballooning at the end of the tube

 

[RDC76]

I don't know whether you plan slotting one at a time or not. I usually make 10' of inserts with the 2" x .188 wall. at a time , I cut the 11/16 x 3
slots with 1 1/2" ~2" gaps then part them on the band saw. I've had a table for over 10 years now. Before that , it was the drill two holes and hand plasma between tangents method. For the receiver piece for the tire plate, I cut and drill the parts then do two cuts on the band saw to make the compression slot. I've done it with plasma but the band saw leaves no residue or slag to clean up. The tire plate slips right in.
If you do the slotting of the 2" on the table, be vigilant of the tube lifting or twisting from heat. Your slots start in the center then move about.
I can get 26 parts out of 10 ft but it's easier to control five feet. My nesting program automatically moves the torch about to control heat.
It might cut part #1 then #12, 7,20 and so on.

I like the anvil. It's classier than my simple square ring and it does reinforce the outer edge to help reduce ballooning at the end of the tube

Good info and thanks Dave. My nesting program does moves around too to control heat.i also have a water table on my setup. Im still not 100% sure what im gonna do for that part yet. Been focusing on the swingout latches at the moment.

Rich