yep.. I've just replaced the whole lot.. the only thing I havent replaced is the heater core (fine for now, fingers crossed)
Coolant Level Anomaly
- Thread starter jonheld
- Start date
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You should replace the head gasket along with overhauling the head (in my opinion). With those amount of miles, it’s about time …….
Dean did this big job last year, all new cooling components too !
Dean did this big job last year, all new cooling components too !
- Thread starter
- #23
What's up Pappi. Good to hear from you.
I picked up this 450 in 2014. Since that time ALL rubber/soft parts have been replaced sequentially with OEM right down to the door gaskets and window regulator channel fillers.
New OEM radiator in 2016 along with a new modified fan clutch. Has never run hot even when pulling my 416 over the hills on RT80 through Nevada last June in 103F ambient. I think the hottest I've seen is 210F which made me uncomfortable.
I'm waiting for the snow/rain to stop around here to do some more diagnostics before jumping in. I don't have a useable garage, so I might have to find a place/person to do this for me if it comes to that. She's my daily driver so it can't be down for too long.
you dont have to pull out as much coolant as you think, unless your planning on doing a drain and fill on it. i would usually drain enough out to empty out about half of the top tank. and i kept a cheep turkey baster in my box to pull out the coolant
For sure your attention to detail as well as your ow approach makes your LX450 unique and one of a kind !
As you know, Dean bought his Lexus with a rebuilt motor. PO blew the head gasket by bursting the Pesky hose on the highway. He also told me the head was so warped that couldn’t be rebuilt so bought a Chinese one….. once we got it, that head always overheated in traffic and hot summers until we noticed the same, there was a slight coolant loss that we couldn’t figure it out until the day gasket called it quits. Luckily, it by passed the oil galley’s not affecting the internals. I had an extra Used OEM head I sent out and probably your best bet to approach it this way, get everything ready to minimise time…..
Deans truck now perform way better than ever….
I will parting out another 80 soon if you need a motor, just saying …..
just out of curiosity, was the coolant loss from the overflow or the radiator?
interesting... how quickly would it drop in the overflow? How many mm per 100km for example?
Hi.
I had a similar problem on my 1HZ. The antifreeze was overflowing into the expansion tank, but when it cooled, it didn't flow back into the radiator. The antifreeze also rusted and turned cloudy some time after replacing it. It turned out that when it heated up, exhaust gases were leaking from cylinder 5 into the cooling duct. So I replaced the cylinder head gasket. Замена прокладки ГБЦ 1 HZ. - https://www.drive2.ru/l/718362074790512782/
So FWIW I had a similar problem with my cooling system completely different vehicle but im sure the cooling system is similar.
Mine would do the same thing yours was and could not figure it out for a long time I tried everything and about 4 different radiator caps everyone would test good but somehow were seating properly or something. But after 4-5 caps I found one that finally worked.
This day and age the way parts are made its hard to find good quality stuff. Hopefully you figure it out.
Mine would do the same thing yours was and could not figure it out for a long time I tried everything and about 4 different radiator caps everyone would test good but somehow were seating properly or something. But after 4-5 caps I found one that finally worked.
This day and age the way parts are made its hard to find good quality stuff. Hopefully you figure it out.
- Thread starter
- #31
Quick update.
The rain finally let up around here so I used my new block tester to check for exhaust gasses getting into the water jacket.
NOTE: Make sure the overflow nipple on the radiator filler neck is sealed or you will draw coolant from the overflow or air, depending on how the tool seats in the filler neck.
I did 3 sets of tests once the thermostat opened. Temp was 181-185F. Each test was 30 squeezes drawing air from the radiator filler neck.
Test 1 at 650 rpm: no change in color.
Test 2 at 2K rpm: no change in color.
Test 3 at 650 rpm: no change in color.
I'm going to say that there are no combustion gasses in the water jacket.
The rain finally let up around here so I used my new block tester to check for exhaust gasses getting into the water jacket.
NOTE: Make sure the overflow nipple on the radiator filler neck is sealed or you will draw coolant from the overflow or air, depending on how the tool seats in the filler neck.
I did 3 sets of tests once the thermostat opened. Temp was 181-185F. Each test was 30 squeezes drawing air from the radiator filler neck.
Test 1 at 650 rpm: no change in color.
Test 2 at 2K rpm: no change in color.
Test 3 at 650 rpm: no change in color.
I'm going to say that there are no combustion gasses in the water jacket.
Coming up on 1,000 views and 30 replies, and I just want to say that this thread is a testament to "...the more help you give, the more help you get."
You've helped me and a ton of other people on here, and everybody wants to help you on this.
You've helped me and a ton of other people on here, and everybody wants to help you on this.
I had the same thing happen to me and it ended up being the down spout hose return into the radiator on the passenger side. On my 3FE there is a metal coupler between the bottom hose and the top hose that comes out of the thermostat housing on the way down. Its attached (the coupler) right behind the PS pump area to the water pump housing, I think. There were two pipe clamps in there that were SUPER hard to get to, and both were leaking JUST slightly and vaporing on the way out. That's why it took me a long time to find them. It only happened while I was driving and vaporized because it was high enough pressure to spray out in a super thin line from the fittings. I finally ended up finding the white deposits from the fluid on the frame which directed me to find them. If not for that proof, I would have never found it. If I can take some photos for you tomorrow, I will put them up here. Might be something to check at least.
But it looks like in this case the system is completely closed with no leak as the extra volume in the overflow corresponds exactly to the volume initially drawn out from the radiator.
Well in any case, here is what I'm dealing with. Found today that it is leaking again. This is where mine comes from.
- Thread starter
- #36
Get rid of those Home Depot worm drive hose clamps.
Always use OEM hoses and parts.
Make sure the mating surfaces between the hose and hard pipe are clean and add a thin layer of grease.
^this. A dab of Vaseline on the hose nipple will repay you miles down the road.
Side note on Vaseline. I had two 2Fs and one 3FE motors rebuilt at an old, old machine shop where Vaseline was used as the assembly lube. Two of these motors have > 300k each on them indicating that Vaseline was a suitable assembly lube for the bearings.
It's the assembly lube recommended by Toyota for transmission assembly. Not that that means anything for hoses, but still...
- Thread starter
- #40
So I finally got the new overflow assembly delivered today after having to pay an additional $68 in orange douche tax to enter the country.
Maybe this will fix the issue, or maybe not. In any case, it's nice to have clean and shiny new parts.
I will say that the new tubing fits substantially tighter than the 29 year old ones and is in much better shape.
Maybe this will fix the issue, or maybe not. In any case, it's nice to have clean and shiny new parts.
I will say that the new tubing fits substantially tighter than the 29 year old ones and is in much better shape.