I have a coolant leak coming from the hose behind the air cleaner and not sure exactly why. Has anyone had similar problems or maybe someone knows? Maybe I need to replace the hose?
Coolant Leak
- Thread starter albino rhino
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yeah, that happens sometimes. when I did my motor swap, mine was so close to going that it fell apart from pulling it off the fittings. looks like it's kind of a bitch to get at it with the 2f in there from reading previous posts about it...
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- #3
the hose that it seems to be leaking from is right by the arm that the hot and cold switch operates.
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- #4
Here is a pic of what I am talking about
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- #5
This might be a better pic
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- #6
Does anyone have a clue what that piece is that the hoses are attached to?
That is the heater valve, controls the hot whater to the heat system..when you work the lever in the dash to "hotter" that valve opens lets h2o go to the cores.
If it is not leaking form the valve, and tightening the hose clamps does not stop it.
then yeah, replace the hose. I would replace all the hoses, (heater, radiator and the one down by the firewall on the drivers side) A lot of PO's only replaced the two main radiator hoses...You need to do them all at the same time. Put a new one on in the loacation in your photo..and you may blow another old one int that link..ie the little ones under the floor board for the rear heater. Several venders sell the complete "kit" of hoses for the whole deal.
This a great time to do flush on the whole system too...
If it is not leaking form the valve, and tightening the hose clamps does not stop it.
then yeah, replace the hose. I would replace all the hoses, (heater, radiator and the one down by the firewall on the drivers side) A lot of PO's only replaced the two main radiator hoses...You need to do them all at the same time. Put a new one on in the loacation in your photo..and you may blow another old one int that link..ie the little ones under the floor board for the rear heater. Several venders sell the complete "kit" of hoses for the whole deal.
This a great time to do flush on the whole system too...
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- #8
Is that a pretty tuff job?
also don't forget to replace the hoses that go to the oil cooler and into the rear heater (underneath the front passenger seat. the thread below has some screen shots of the parts microfiche that are covered.
If you have the right hoses the job is not too difficult. You'll need to drain the coolant. There are some tight spots that are a little difficult to get to. Particularly the hose that's at the fire wall on the drivers side. It's a little easier to get to the hoses on the front of the engine if you remove some of the fan belts and maybe the alternator.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=132073&highlight=hoses
If you have the right hoses the job is not too difficult. You'll need to drain the coolant. There are some tight spots that are a little difficult to get to. Particularly the hose that's at the fire wall on the drivers side. It's a little easier to get to the hoses on the front of the engine if you remove some of the fan belts and maybe the alternator.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=132073&highlight=hoses
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- #10
Thanks for the link. I know the radiator was replaced not too long ago along with the main hoses but the other ones are probably original.
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- #11
I looked at the hose were the clamps are attached and it does not looked cracked. I will try to tighten the clamps and see if that holds. Also how full should you fill the radiator?......I know basic question, but better safe than sorry.
those are not original clamps on the heater hoses. So they may have been replace too. Try tightening the clamp, it should "firm up"
don't crush the thing though.
The radiator should be filled after all the hoses are put back on. Then with the front end higher than the rear, like on a crub, run the engine with the radiator cap off and all the heaters on full "hot" untill it stops "burping" air out of the system, in other workds, when the thermostat opens up the fluid will start flowing in the radiator, it will surge up to full then "burp" and the level will drop back down, add a little more fluid to keep it from getting to low, continue untill Burping stops.. Then fill the radiator and the resivoir, it will still burp some into the resivoir, but should suck fluid out of the resivoir to replace the air burped out. If the rig starts over heating it still has air in the system,so again, while cool, take off radiator cap again and do the warmup-burp deal again, last time it took three cycles for mine to burp out..
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- #13
Is the heater valve easy to replace? Would I just have to detach those two hoses or is there another process?
I just replaced that hose on my 62 a couple of days ago. I put one of the Prestone flush T's in the horizontal hose to make future flushes easier, it is also the highest point in the cooling system so you can burp there.
Heater valve probably not bad, why do you think it is?
Mine leaked at that same spot! I changed the original clamp with the one you have pictured and the leak stopped. I had just replaced my radiator cap and did a flush and fill. My old cap was probably not holding pressure cuz as soon as I changed it, a lot of new leaks emerged. But I fixed them by tightening the clamps a little.
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- #17
Ok I will try and double check them again and make sure the clamps are nice and snug. Have you ever changed that valve?
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- #18
Ok I tightened the clamps and let it warm up and drove around the block and it is spitting fluid everywhere. I am going to try and pull the hoses off the valve and inspect the valve. Hopefully I can get this thing fixed by tomorrow. That is the only part about having a 25+ year old vehicle as a DD.
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- #19
I took off the hoses and inspected the heater valve and it looks ok. I might try new clamps to see if the will help at all.
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- #20
OK at this point I have tried everything except replacing the bottom hose, but I might have to take that route. Does anyone know of any radiator sealers that might fix that problem?
