Coolant Leak (1 Viewer)

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You need new hoses, anything else is gonna be a short term fix. You can drive it with it leaking a little, just so it's not cooking out a quart a hour or anything crazy. a high pressure leak won't hurt, least until the hose blows out. a "stop leak" won't cure bad hoses. Limp around till you can buy some hoses.
 
I just need it to hold out for a few more weeks, then I will have time to spend working on it. For right now it is just the weekends.
 
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Hose 87245E is the hose giving me the problems. Does that hose run into the cab or attach right at the firewall?
 
Here is another pic (not the best) of the bottom of the hose running into the firewall. Resize of Albino Rhino 003.jpg
Resize of Albino Rhino 003.jpg
 
As far as I know there is not hose inside the truck. In the bottom picture you can see a hose clamp. The hose ends there at the firewall.
 
hey 2mbb thanks. And also thank you for letting me "borrow" the schematic from a post you had back in 05. I will try and replace the hose and hopefully that will fix it, otherwise I need to find one from someone parting out. These things are like $80 on SOR. Everyone was freaking me out with talk of having to get into the dash..... which I am sure will have to be done eventually since this is an 81.
 
heater valve hoses

Has anyone on here ever changed out their heater valve hoses?
 
You can drive it with it leaking a little, just so it's not cooking out a quart a hour or anything crazy. a high pressure leak won't hurt, least until the hose blows out.


WRONG !!!! A leak will not allow the cooling system/coolant to pressurize. Coolant is pressurized to raise its boiling point. Non-pressurized coolant will boil at a lower temp and allow the onset of detrimental engine damage. Fix your cooling system correctly and be done with it!
 
WRONG !!!! A leak will not allow the cooling system/coolant to pressurize. Coolant is pressurized to raise its boiling point. Non-pressurized coolant will boil at a lower temp and allow the onset of detrimental engine damage. Fix your cooling system correctly and be done with it!

Read my post again...I didn't say leave leaking forever. There are rigs all over the world with leaks, Your right but I'm not "WRONG!!!!"...Maybe he can look at his temp gauge every now and then..

This guy does not want to replace the hoses he has said it over and over in this thread. Let it leak, IF, LIKE I SAID ABOVE, IT IS NOT PROFUSELY LEAKING (added the profusely just now since maybe my original wording didn't get my point across)
 
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even if the hoses look good from the outside, they may not be as they rot from the inside out. bite the bullet and swap them out with OEM or equivalent. won't be that bad a job, maybe two bananas, just have a little patience. use new clamps as well.

HTH.
 
Easy fellas no need to argue over a hose. I ordered the hose today. $25 from the dealer. I am replacing with OE. I am still driving it, but only 10 miles to and from work. I will have the hose by Wed. Thanks for all of your help guys. I will take some more pics for anyone who might want to use this thread for the future.
 
I found when I started removing heater hoses that the metal tube that it's attached to is hopelessly corroded and partly disintegrated when I removed the rubber hose from it. Be ready to order/repair the hardpipes in the system the same time you change the hoses.

For instance, I totally removed the route to my EFI throttle body because (a) it was totally plugged and (b) it doesn't get cold enough here to need it.

Note the short bypass on the left side of the thermostat housing:
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Well I changed the bottom hose and it wasnt that bad. Hopefully that is all I will have to do, but might have to replace the top hose as well. If that doesnt do the job, then I am not sure where to go from there.
 
Does anyone know how to take the plastic coolant resevior off? I want to clean it out.
 
Thanks 2mbb. No more leaking coolant and it seems to be running just right as far as temp goes. I just need to fix my motor mount.
 

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