Coolant Leak....overheating (1 Viewer)

[Huk]

I'm located in Brookhaven if you need some urgent help. I don't have much experience working on 80s but I could help you find the culprit.

 

[Huk]

I'm located in Brookhaven if you need some urgent help. I don't have much experience working on 80s but I could help you find the culprit.

Unless you got a cracked radiator then it's probably just a hose which should be an easy and CHEAP fix.

 

[MoJ]

Unless they're referring to the phh neighbor. If so, removing the throttle body is commonly done. Short fat hose is phh, long skinny formed hose is phh neighbor.

 

[thekitchensink]

I'm located in Brookhaven if you need some urgent help. I don't have much experience working on 80s but I could help you find the culprit.

Unless you got a cracked radiator then it's probably just a hose which should be an easy and CHEAP fix.

Thanks, but I think I can do it. I'll let you know if I need anything (Brookhaven is 20min from my place).

 

[thekitchensink]

Unless they're referring to the phh neighbor. If so, removing the throttle body is commonly done. Short fat hose is phh, long skinny formed hose is phh neighbor.

I asked and it's just the PHH.

 

[Huk]

Thanks, but I think I can do it. I'll let you know if I need anything (Brookhaven is 20min from my place).

Gotcha I'm driving up to Athens soon as I'm still changing the head gasket on my bmw e30 but I have tons of spare heater hose up there. There are also tons of google searches that should help you. I found this pretty fast.

1. For the PHH, I found the most useful tools were:
a. needle nose vise grips.
b. cutting knife.
b. 12mm gear wrench.
c. dremel tool.
d. 1/4" finger ratchet.
e. 1/4" drive ratchet.
The sears clamp tool is pricey (~40). I found needle nose vise grips to be just as effective for the OEM clamps. You could get 2 or 3 multiple sizes of pliers for the price of the sears tool.

2. Remove both bolts holding the metal tube for the PHH.The lower one is hard to get to (use the gear wrench for this, if you can't move it with your hand, tap it with a hammer to break it loose).

3. Remove the little mud flap in the fender well (you will have to get new fasteners to put it back on, but that's the least of your worries at this point!). With a 12mm ratchet remove the trans filler tube bolts (2)and move it out of the way.

4. The outer hose clamp is the OEM wind up type. Dremel (carefully) through this and remove it. I then used the Sears hose clamp tool to open the inner clamp (by the block) and rotate it around to a more accessible position. Use the needle nose vise grips to open this clamp and move it out of the way. Cut(carefully) along the length of the hose and remove the old one. Put your new hose on the metal tube along with both clamps. Slide this onto the block nipple. Get everything into position and tighten with your finger and/or drive ratchet.

5. Burn the old PHH in sacrifice to the the Strong Land Cruiser spirits and dance three times around your truck. (Local air pollution laws may apply).

If you're in a pinch, I know Lowes carries some bundles of 5/8 heater hose.(Saved my ass a couple of time with the engine swap in my bmw)

 

[Grench]

Now for the 'while you're in there' bug.

Coolant system will be completely drained for changing the PHH - it is near the bottom of the block after all.

This is a good time to change ALL of the soft/rubber coolant lines and flush the coolant system with about 4-6 courses of tap water followed by 2 courses of distilled water followed by the Red Toyota coolant (someone will know the part number) blended half with distilled water.

Probably time to change belts too.

Of course with the hoses all off - that thermostat will already be accessible. They don't last forever - you'll want the genuine Toyota one.

 

[thekitchensink]

Now for the 'while you're in there' bug.

Coolant system will be completely drained for changing the PHH - it is near the bottom of the block after all.

This is a good time to change ALL of the soft/rubber coolant lines and flush the coolant system with about 4-6 courses of tap water followed by 2 courses of distilled water followed by the Red Toyota coolant (someone will know the part number) blended half with distilled water.

Probably time to change belts too.

Of course with the hoses all off - that thermostat will already be accessible. They don't last forever - you'll want the genuine Toyota one.

What's special about the Toyota coolant as opposed to a generic brand like Prestone?

 

[Red Merle]

What's special about the Toyota coolant as opposed to a generic brand like Prestone?

It's hard to get and costs at least twice as much. As long as you don't mix green with red, you'll be fine and you can buy it anywhere. I know there are some that are still holding on to the idea that the Toyota Red is the only way to go, but enough people have been running green for long enough for me to feel good about using green(I still go with Prestone though as I think having a name brand might matter, but not really sure). If you want to stick with red, that is just fine too.

 

[Kaninja]

As Red Merle said. Cheaper and easier to find. I switched to green as soon as I got my 80 last year. Although my coolant wasn't really red. The previous owner took the term long life coolant to another level.

 

[thekitchensink]

I guess we're about to find out what the PO did with mine...

 

[midfat]

They say it's the heater hose. But they want to go in through the manifold, which they would have to remove to get to (his words). From what I've read I can access it from the left wheel well...(?)

Find a mechanic that knows Land Cruisers. This should be an hour job for a skilled tech.

 

[thekitchensink]

Find a mechanic that knows Land Cruisers. This should be an hour job for a skilled tech.

Anyone know of a shop in the ATL area? I'm north-east of the perimeter, but don't mind driving a bit to get to a good one.

 

[Grench]

Anyone know of a shop in the ATL area? I'm north-east of the perimeter, but don't mind driving a bit to get to a good one.

Changing your own PHH is a bit of a rite of passage. Bleeding and cursing are usually involved. Once you get started your choice is to finish it or have it towed. Read up on it a bit - there are lots of good sources here.

Doing mine the first time took about 4 hours. 2 hours of that was trying to figure out how to loosen that damn bolt that holds the hard line heater tube that bolts between the firewall and the block.

 

[thekitchensink]

Changing your own PHH is a bit of a rite of passage. Bleeding and cursing are usually involved. Once you get started your choice is to finish it or have it towed. Read up on it a bit - there are lots of good sources here.

Oh, don't worry... I already have my hands dirty. And I prefer it that way... I only asked because it's good to know a place if I absolutely have to take it in.

 

[Huk]

Somoone at Toyota must still be laughing their was off at this common failure.

 

[thekitchensink]

Question time. Is this the engine block coolant drain bolt (circled in white)? I read some forums...but none that I found had pictures.

I don't want to start wrenching on something that I don't need to right now...

 

[Red Merle]

Question time. Is this the engine block coolant drain bolt (circled in white)? I read some forums...but none that I found had pictures.

View attachment 1509597

I don't want to start wrenching on something that I don't need to right now...

Yep, that is the block drain. Be careful when you go to put it back in. I almost cross threaded mine.

 

[thekitchensink]

Doing mine the first time took about 4 hours. 2 hours of that was trying to figure out how to loosen that damn bolt that holds the hard line heater tube that bolts between the firewall and the block.

Did you do the bypass? I'm trying to figure out if I should or not...

 

[Grench]

Did you do the bypass? I'm trying to figure out if I should or not...

No. It IS possible to do it right without bypassing the heater line. I ended up using a small ratchet with a low profile socket and another tool used as a lever against it to get it loose. There isn't much room in there to work - kind of a one-hand operation. Jack stands on the frame and lowering the axle down helped get enough space in the wheel well to -reach-. Disconnecting the transmission dip stick gives a few more inches of needed room to get an arm in there too.

A good chunk of the frustration comes from not being able to see what it is you're doing.

The factory one-use hose clamps can be fun to get off too. One truck I used a small pair of dykes (cutters). The other I carefully used a rotary tool to cut the clamps. Rotary tool is faster, but it's nerve wracking over concern to not cut into the block side stub.

There are -lots- of write ups over the procedure.