Coolant Leak - Opinions please

[123mattfisher]

Hello Fellas,
New to the forum and new owner here. Have had my FJ for a few months and slowly tackling some issues.
Had my rig in the dealer to diagnose a pesky coolant leak and it appears some rusty line at the firewall on the passenger side are being identified as the root cause among some other items noted at my local dealer.
Anyway, they are working a quote to replace the lines which they say requires the engine and the transmission to be dropped. I am expecting a sky high estimate, but thought I would reach out to the community for some thoughts on what is shown in the video and their recommended fix.
Many thanks in advance!
Matt
link here if video doesn't come thru: App - https://r7600305.m.reyrey.net/app/?ref=iksKVSfpQLGk99hMQ1O%2BiQ%3D%3D&sys=c08eabb3-daad-41b7-8c54-9053a7714437

 

[Kernal]

@123mattfisher : post up the video on youtube and add that link.

Unless you're a wealthy person you definitely need to fix this yourself, start searching in this 80 Series forum
using terms like "rear heater leak delete bypass" and "PHH leak repair"

Quick summary:

The rear heater pipes (corroding) are a known issue where the pipes rust out, usual location is under the vehicle/right passenger seat area near/above the catalytic converters which causes a coolant leak. Most people just eliminate or bypass the rear heater circuit entirely, it's been discussed on the forum many times.

One possible quick fix is to connect a heater hose (1/2" ID) from one pipe to the other somewhere under the vehicle before the leaking pipe ie: connect an OUT pipe to the parallel IN pipe under the vehicle using two clamps for each end.

You can use the original hoses, remove one of the parallel hoses (before the leak) from one parallel pipe, then take the other hose and disconnect the downstream end and bend it over to the other pipe and use two hose clamps to hold it in place. Done.

The water doesn't have to flow so don't worry if the hose kinks. Or, if you can find the correct size 1/2" coolant bypass cap (short section of hose with one end closed) you can use two of those instead on the pipe ends after removing the original hoses.

A different method of bypassing the rear heater is to substitute a Toyota formed heater hose (not available from a US dealer) such that the rear heater circuit doesn't receive any water ie: you're bypassing and abandoning the rear heater pipes in place but your front heater will still produce heat.

(While you're doing all this you should replace the Heat Control Valve on the firewall at the same time if it's the original)

Here's the link for one source for the rear heater circuit bypass hose.

LCP - Rear Heater Delete Hose

Molded Rear Heater Delete Hose The upgraded installation with a perfectly molded hose.

sites.google.com

Another link:





The Pesky Heater Hose is also something most people can replace themselves with basic tools. Hardest part is working up inside the left front wheel well
and reaching up/rearwards toward the side of the engine.

 

[123mattfisher]

@123mattfisher : post up the video on youtube and add that link.

Unless you're a wealthy person you definitely need to fix this yourself, so start searching in this 80 Series forum
using terms like "rear heater leak delete bypass"

Quick summary:

The rear heater pipes (corroding) are a known issue where the pipes rust out, usual location is under the vehicle/right passenger seat area near/above the catalytic converters which causes a coolant leak. Most people just eliminate or bypass the rear heater circuit entirely, it's been discussed on the forum many times.

One possible quick fix is to connect a heater hose (1/2" ID) from one pipe to the other somewhere under the vehicle before the leaking pipe ie: connect an OUT pipe to the parallel IN pipe under the vehicle using two clamps for each end.

Another method is to substitute a Toyota formed heater hose (not available from a US dealer) such that the rear heater circuit doesn't receive any water ie: you're bypassing and abandoning the rear heater pipes in place.

Here's the link for one source for that hose.

LCP - Rear Heater Delete Hose

Molded Rear Heater Delete Hose The upgraded installation with a perfectly molded hose.

sites.google.com

Thanks for the reply. I will try to post the vid on YouTube. I’ve pulled the heat shield under the cat and replaced the 2 hoses there. They were pretty shot. The leak is much higher up as it exits the firewall. the dealer provided me a parts list with the rough estimate.
It’s looking to be 2400 roughly in parts about 6200 is labor. Sounds like a pill I’m not willing to swallow.
Anyway, I will do some research on bypassing the rear.
Appreciate the feedback

 

[Kernal]

Cheapest/quickest route if the leak is in the first section of rear heater pipes would be a rear-heat bypass using the non-USA Toyota hose (from a diesel 80) linked above.

If you could post up a photo of the actual leak that would help.

 

[CruiserDave]

LCP - Rear Heater Delete Hose

Molded Rear Heater Delete Hose The upgraded installation with a perfectly molded hose.

sites.google.com

Get the complete kit and be done with the rear heater.

 

[alia176]

LCP - Rear Heater Delete Hose

Molded Rear Heater Delete Hose The upgraded installation with a perfectly molded hose.

sites.google.com

Get the complete kit and be done with the rear heater.

The fella is in PA so he might want the rear passengers to freeze a little less..... Assuming the hard pipes are not beyond corroded.

 

[Devils Paw 80]

Naturally a dealer will look at returning the truck to its original, fully functional condition. Usually it's not recommended going to them for repairs. If rear heater line is the issue I don't care if you live in Greenland, just bypass it. $8600 is insane.

 

[CruiserDave]

One thing the 80 doesn't lack is heat. Not once have any of my kids, and they complain about everything lol, said they were to cold. This is from the NC mountains where temps drop to low single digits with winds blowing 10 to 50 mph. Now if you have people in the third row constantly it may be an issue but definitely not the second row.

Mine wasn't even leaking or corroded and I bypassed it to make the system less likely to have unrepairable issues out on the trail/road. It's not missed. $70 bypass vs 8k repair?

 

[60 toy ota]

8 replies in and nobody has mentioned routing soft lines all the way to the rear heater, another common and proven solution. You don't have to bypass the rear heater necessarily, just the rusty hard lines.

 

[CrabCake]

One thing the 80 doesn't lack is heat. Not once have any of my kids, and they complain about everything lol, said they were to cold. This is from the NC mountains where temps drop to low single digits with winds blowing 10 to 50 mph. Now if you have people in the third row constantly it may be an issue but definitely not the second row.

Mine wasn't even leaking or corroded and I bypassed it to make the system less likely to have unrepairable issues out on the trail/road. It's not missed. $70 bypass vs 8k repair?

I totally agree with this...I bypassed mine just to save on potential issues down the road. And heat wise, agreed too...mine pumps more than enough heat out of the front vents than I can ever use on the coldest days.

And with the bypass, you can leave all of the other stuff there to repair at a future time if you're so inclined....

 

[duece71]

Bypass the rear heater is fairly simple and peace of mind for the future. The dealer option sounds insane. I learned my lesson early on with the stealer ship. Never return except to order parts which they absolutely hate. Is there a specialty import car/truck shop near you? Anyone else own an 80 series near you?

 

[Kernal]

"no one has mentioned routing soft lines all the way to the rear heater"

It's been discussed in the past (one person may have done it??) but I don't recall anyone showing exactly how they did it or if it was successful??

A few people have replaced short sections of rotted out pipes using two clamps on each ends of the hoses as when you cut
the pipes you may remove the lip near the ends which helps the hose/clamp seal.

You might could reuse the attached brackets (cut them off) from the original pipes and modify as necessary so that the hoses could be clamped/attached
to those brackets then bolted back up to the same locations as the original pipes. Problem is there will be some sagging so that might not
be enough to keep the hoses secure and away from the Cats.

Point is, it's been discussed in the past but all that would need someone to work out the details on routing/securing the hoses (and post them up if they've already done it).

In the OP's situation it may be easier to maybe try again (with the correct 1/2" ID) heater hose using two clamps on both ends of the hose, or just bypass the rear heater circuit.

We'll have to wait for @123mattfisher to report back to see what he's done.

 

[BTLSHP]

I ran Gates green stripe back to the heater bypassing the rusty hard lines while retaining the rear heater. It is connected to the frame by a couple of ANC hose brackets. It is also heat wrapped up near the manifold. The only challenge was finding hose clamps at the heater end. The line are too close for the Toyota spring clamps I used elsewhere. Gates heat shrink clamps were the solution.

We ran the heater all winter looking for signs of issues and had none.

Pretty low cost approach, but I am prepare to bypass if problems emerge.

 

[Kernal]

Got photos of the hose routing and installation??

 

[BTLSHP]

I will get some

 

[BTLSHP]

It is pouring outside, but here is a start

Top shows the heat tape running down along the exhaust manifold on the pax side. Middle shows barely the driver's side coming across the back of the engine with my yet to be completed heat tape for the wiring harness.

The final one is my one area of concern I have not addressed. There is a tiny bit of rubbing between the hoses and the body at the top right of the frame rail. And, yes, I did not bother to remove the old pipe. From there it is along the frame rail and up to the heater. At that point the clamps are Gates thermal couples as there was limited working room for good spring clamps.

 

[Kernal]

How were they secured to the frame/body?

 

[BTLSHP]

How were they secured to the frame/body?

It has been pouring rain here today. I will get pictures when it dries. I used something called AN12 brackets and did a bit of finagling with a drill to fit them to pre-existing threaded inserts in the frame. At the curve up to the heater fittings I used a metal "L" bracket. One I worry about in terms of corrosion/durability.

https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Clamp-AN12-Separator-Mounting-Fitting/dp/B089SG241K?th=1

 

[BTLSHP]

Here are the rest of the photos. Please understand that had I had my way, I would have bypassed the second row heater. But sometimes I do as I am told....

I was terrified of the temps between the exhaust and the two hoses, so I put this motorcycle heat shield on. After measuring several times with an infrared gun, I never saw temps that were troubling (can't recall precise max but the Gates hose has a 250f limit). That said I do not like the condition of those worm gears. The Gates Power Grip clamps were the only clamps that would fit and they seem brilliant. I stole the idea from @Kernal. I did not drill any holes in the frame rails, there were plenty of pre-existing threaded fittings including a stud available to mount the hose clamps to on the underbody.

I am open for people's concern on this one. I watched it closely for heat and leaks over the winter and ran the rear heat all winter/spring.

The new owner will get a bypass hose and clear instructions to bypass the rear heater if this becomes an issue.

 

[Kernal]

Looks good.

If the temps were to (still) get too high near the exhaust a length of split heat sleeve slid over each of the hoses closest to the exhaust/cats might help.

How many feet of Gates 1/2" Green Stripe heater hose did you use?