Cool

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Joined
Jan 22, 2007
Threads
4
Messages
20
Location
Smithville, TN
I started a thread called “Not Cool” a while ago about my overheating woes, which I’ve been fighting on and off for a year or so. I finally feel like it’s fixed, and thought I would share.

I first left it in the hands of the mechanic, which means fixing the easiest part first, without a lot of diagnosis. This is how I got a new fan clutch, water pump, flushed radiator, and two thermostats.

Then I decided I was a great mechanic. So I ordered a gasket kit and tore into it. I actually successfully replaced the head gasket and had the head magnafluxed, new exhaust valves, etc at the local shop. Nothing

Then I spent about an hour on a steep incline bleeding every bubble out of the system. Still no fix.

After a few more trips to the grocery store pegging red before I got home, I took it back to the mechanic for a new head gasket (yes again). This time the machine shop found a crack inside the head.

I ordered one from cruiserparts.net. They were GREAT. Good head in a few days. Got it machined and bolted on. This was when I found out my 86 fj60 had an engine from a 78 2f (PO surprise !!)… So cruiserparts sent another head at no cost and waited for me to swap everything and send the other head back, I can’t say enough good about them. Got everything installed and hit the trail. After a 12-hour ride where two other trucks boiled over, I never even got up to operating temp (no thermostat). I can definitely say that my problems are over…for now.
 
Damn, what an ordeal.... But glad you got it fixed... Get that thermostat in there soon, lot of wear on a motor that does not reach operating temp.
 
No affiliation, but if it still has issues when you get a new tstat in, try throwing some Water Wetter in with your coolant. It reduces the surface tension of the coolant, which not only reduces localized boiling around the exhaust valves (which is what the authors of an article in Car Craft were working on when I first read about it), but helps with heat transfer. I added some in shortly after doing the electric fan conversion, and it made a noticeable difference in the temp shown at the gauge. I wish I would've taken before and after readings with a thermostat, but no joy. Suffice it to say, it does help keep coolant temps down, which might give you a little more edge in avoiding overheats.
 
glad to hear a happy cruiserparts.net story.

just sayn...
 
my t stat only goes up a little after I've been driving a while, and never comes close to the warm/hot range...is that good or bad?
 
My first step was to question the dash gauge. I bought an IR handheld gauge, but there are a bunch of other ways to check the actual temp. Replacing the T-stat is a $ 20 / 1 beer job if you think it might be sticking open and overcooling the engine.
 
No affiliation, but if it still has issues when you get a new tstat in, try throwing some Water Wetter in with your coolant. It reduces the surface tension of the coolant, which not only reduces localized boiling around the exhaust valves (which is what the authors of an article in Car Craft were working on when I first read about it), but helps with heat transfer. I added some in shortly after doing the electric fan conversion, and it made a noticeable difference in the temp shown at the gauge. I wish I would've taken before and after readings with a thermostat, but no joy. Suffice it to say, it does help keep coolant temps down, which might give you a little more edge in avoiding overheats.

The last time I used water wetter (on customer's request), it stated that there should NOT be anti freeze in the system? Just sayin.....
 
No affiliation, but if it still has issues when you get a new tstat in, try throwing some Water Wetter in with your coolant. It reduces the surface tension of the coolant, which not only reduces localized boiling around the exhaust valves (which is what the authors of an article in Car Craft were working on when I first read about it), but helps with heat transfer. I added some in shortly after doing the electric fan conversion, and it made a noticeable difference in the temp shown at the gauge. I wish I would've taken before and after readings with a thermostat, but no joy. Suffice it to say, it does help keep coolant temps down, which might give you a little more edge in avoiding overheats.

Water wetter is a band-aid for a real problem. However, it works... It will drop your temp 15 degrees. we always ran the stuff in our FSAE race car so we could get away with a smaller rad. Thermodynamically, we knew the rad was too small, but we svaed 3 pounds...
 
Or Water-Wetter can be an insurance policy for difficult operating conditions.
But, I do agree, it isn't for "curing" problems.

Anti-freeze/coolant is not better than water for transferring heat, nothing is. It just boils at a higher temperature and freezes at a lower temperature. Which is why the bare minimum needed for the area is always the best policy. There are many areas in the U.S. where you can do totally without IF you add in something for the water pump seals.
 
Or Water-Wetter can be an insurance policy for difficult operating conditions.
But, I do agree, it isn't for "curing" problems.

Agreed. I completely reworked my cooling system before adding it in. It certainly wouldn't be the first thing I try if I had an overheating problem.
 
Similar story with cruiserparts for me too. Replacement head had a very small crack in it though. They sent me a replacement immediately no questions asked. Great experience with them!

The PO had the original head welded up in three places where it was cracked nearly across the entire head! Needless to say it had some overheating probs. One of these days I will swap out the 180 tstat for a 190 so it can get all the way up to operation temp. Now it just barely gets into the cold area of the gauge... of course thats assuming my guage is still accurate.
 

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