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Now that I am getting a lift on my 200, I have sort of opened pandora's box on tire sizes.

Slee has devised a way of mounting 35" tires underneath the stock fenders, and it looks badass.

Now I am new to the concept of re-gearing, but one thing that I do know, is that my MPG will get smoked from going from my originally stock 32" to 35" tires. I also know that going from the stock 4.30s to 4.88s should really help correct the gear hunting that will occur with 35s, and thus get me better MPGs. Now gears are expensive ($1400 a set) and getting them installed (which I am afraid to do myself) will be costly too.

My question is, is would I actually be required to regear, or could I get away with holding off, at least for a while? On the other hand, since
I now have 33.1" Duratracs, I thought that I could go ahead and regear now to 4.88s, and get even better MPGs than a stock 200. Is that correct? Forgive my ignorance.
 
To be honest you are just at tip of iceberg....you need to forget MPGs.

If you are worried by a used Prius for the amount you will spend to chase MPGs.

If you get over 10 be happy in any cruiser. I would spend money on aux tank before the $3k to regear....then not as many trips to pump.

These guys post these BS mileage claims....we drive 5 ton bricks down the road.

Hedge your beats with ExxonMobil stock.
 
Yeah, don't worry about the MPG's. Do it and see if the gear hunting bothers you, if it does much at all. It bothers me on the 80 series, but your motor has more power and the tire size isn't as much of a jump.

Does it really cost that much to regear? That sounds quite high, but I don't know squat about 200 gears.
 
FJ60Cam said:
Does it really cost that much to regear? That sounds quite high, but I don't know squat about 200 gears.
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Yes. A full 4.88 swap is $1399 from JustDifferentials.

Here is a picture of Slee's 200 Series with 35's. Looks perfectly proportional to the fat@#$ body of a 200.

2014-05-01-15-38-08-jpg.904537
 
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I would not re gear. Just wait and see how it drives with your new bigger tires. That 5. 7 has more than enough power to compensate for the bigger tires.
I don't think you will even notice a 4.30 to 4.88 gear change.
Get rob to change out your gears.
 
I'm running 295/60 R20 on my 5.7L Tundra. That's only 33.9", but also only an inch shy of 35's. And the Thundra hauls the mail with no issues. I agree with Lenny, you won't notice the difference.
 
Thats very good to hear. Thanks Heather.
 
sleeoffroad said:
FWIW, the 200 does not run 4.30's. Should be 3.9's
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Thanks for clearing that up, Christo.

I called your company yesterday, and this is what the salesman told me:

1. Wheels with the correct offset are a must. Slee recommends the 17" TRD Rock Warriors.
2. Tire brand is important. Slee said that they have had best results with Nittos. WCT, can you comment on why this may be?
3. Bump stops must be installed. They are $200 a set on Slee's site, and I would need 2 sets.
4. The KDSS arm gets in the way when turning, so it must be pushed slightly forward. Slee also sells a bracket that accomplishes this for $65.
5. A lift is obviously a must. I just purchased an IronMan Foam Cell Pro kit.
6. With a lift, and diff drop is suggested. I have also already purchased one.
7. With a lift, adjustable upper control arms are required to regain factory camber. Again, I have already ordered a set.

Can you explain why you went with the Rock Warriors? Are there any other options that you might suggest (I am having trouble locating a set for a decent price)? When I called your company yesterday, I got pretty excited about potentially doing this swap.

Other than the gear ratio, is there anything else I got incorrect?
 
MScruiser said:
Thanks for clearing that up, Christo.

I called your company yesterday, and this is what the salesman told me:

1. Wheels with the correct offset are a must. Slee recommends the 17" TRD Rock Warriors.
2. Tire brand is important. Slee said that they have had best results with Nittos. WCT, can you comment on why this may be?
Click to expand...

That is what we have tried and fitted. We just don't have a way to experiment with a large number of different tires.

3. Bump stops must be installed. They are $200 a set on Slee's site, and I would need 2 sets.
4. The KDSS arm gets in the way when turning, so it must be pushed slightly forward. Slee also sells a bracket that accomplishes this for $65.
Click to expand...

The price on the swaybar spacer kit is $85. They did not have the updated price in the system. Also on that note, there is still rubbing on the swaybar but liveable since it happens at full lock and where it rubs is pretty smooth. Also the moving of the KDSS swaybar does put some angle and additional stress on the swaybar links and I would expect that to shorten the life of the bushings in the links.

5. A lift is obviously a must. I just purchased an IronMan Foam Cell Pro kit.
6. With a lift, and diff drop is suggested. I have also already purchased one.
7. With a lift, adjustable upper control arms are required to regain factory camber. Again, I have already ordered a set.
Can you explain why you went with the Rock Warriors? Are there any other options that you might suggest (I am having trouble locating a set for a decent price)? When I called your company yesterday, I got pretty excited about potentially doing this swap.
Click to expand...

We have run those on a lot of trucks. They allow for just a little more clearance on the A arms without getting into the fenders on full stuff. Also allows you not to run spacers. There might be other wheels available but I doubt you would get the same quality.
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sleeoffroad said:
snip
Click to expand...

Thank you very much.

So just to verify, the stock wheels have a +60mm offset? Getting a 10mm spacer (I dont think those exist, lol) would essentially allow me to use the stock wheel?

I am confused about the TRD offset. I have read that they are +50mm, but your site says 6mm.
 
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Ok, thanks.
 
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