Considering Buying a PA/OH 200

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Cactus Camper

Cactus Camper

SILVER Star
10 Year
Joined
Feb 21, 2012
Threads
33
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431
Location
Tucson to Dallas
Hello Cruiser Gods,

I’m weighing the decision to purchase a 2016 200 series with 160k miles. Reviewing the carfax it seems to have a well documented service history, which indicates that the vehicle spent more than a few years in Ohio and Pennsylvania. The vehicle is out of state and I’ve received photos of the frame. Based on what you see tell me if I should pursue or walk-away. Still waiting on photos of the spare tire area and engine bay to have a more complete picture.

To me, the frame itself seems fine with only surface rust, but more concerned about bolts and faster removal down the road. What would you do?

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I personally don't think that's in the "walk away" category. A few annual coatings of NHOU or Fluid Film will get that stopped. I bought a Tacoma last summer that was a little worse than that, and I have no concerns, especially since I've had it sprayed with NHOU now. It comes down to the deal and the condition of the interior.
 
KLF said:
I personally don't think that's in the "walk away" category. A few annual coatings of NHOU or Fluid Film will get that stopped. I bought a Tacoma last summer that was a little worse than that, and I have no concerns, especially since I've had it sprayed with NHOU now. It comes down to the deal and the condition of the interior.
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Agree with this.

Definitely not a walk away unless the seller is trying to get a premium for a pristine truck.
 
If you have to ask, it's too much.

I'm in the northeast and that amount of rust is not an issue at all, especially if you live in a dry, no rust, climate where it won't progress. However, if it's bothering you enough to ask, it's always going to bother you. Just be patient and wait for a cleaner one. I've been down this road a few times and have even asked this same question a few times. I always end up waiting as that's 3 winters worth of rust in my area (without protection of course).
 
I don’t think rust is a deal-breaker on that one, but I would investigate what appears to be oily residue on the engine and transmission above the engine under-covers. Maybe just the photos or some sloppy oil changes, but if it was me, I would have a PPI carefully check that out.
 
Like others, I see no concern with those photos at all. The seam welds on the frame have superficial rust on them - nothing close to negatively affecting structural integrity.

I live in the salt belt (northern IN) and purchased mine from Green Bay, WI with 127k miles on it. The surface rust on mine was comparable to what is shown in the photos you posted. I have not discovered issues with the fasteners, nor (more importantly) any of the structural welds. To mitigate rusty fasteners, I have replaced most of the (non-structural ones) with stainless steel ones, e.g., skid plates, protective covers, shields, etc.

I had to replace engine and transmission skid plates because their thin sheet metal has perforated rust, but I was OK with that because I wanted to install proper skid plates anyway. I wire brushed my frame and undercoated entire truck with Surface Shield (lanolin based) with periodic maintenance. I am sure I'll replace the fuel tank skid plate in the future.

Hope that helps.

Cheers,
Melvin
 
You have the opportunity to have a totally rust-free 200 for as long as you want to, apparently living in DFW. IMO that makes the case for waiting on a rust-free rig.

No, that rust isn't terrible, but it is to the point that it will make some of the work under the rig more difficult than it needs to be. For large fasteners like the front LCA pivot bolts, that could save hours of work. Knowing you would never have to deal with that in the future, to me, is worth a fair amount of extra cash up front. And if you keep looking you may not have to pay any extra at all.
 
bloc said:
You have the opportunity to have a totally rust-free 200 for as long as you want to, apparently living in DFW. IMO that makes the case for waiting on a rust-free rig.

No, that rust isn't terrible, but it is to the point that it will make some of the work under the rig more difficult than it needs to be. For large fasteners like the front LCA pivot bolts, that could save hours of work. Knowing you would never have to deal with that in the future, to me, is worth a fair amount of extra cash up front. And if you keep looking you may not have to pay any extra at all.
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I have some rust on my cruiser that's been in South Florida its whole life. Nothing serious, but some light surface rust on certain welds and some exhaust bolts that are seized up. Hitch receiver and KDSS valve also had surface rust (now wire wheeled and painted).

I don't know. Maybe I'm wrong (I have very limited experience), but these things really like to rust and having a 100% rust free rig seems aspirational more than anything, even in the South. That or you have to be really on your s*** in terms of maintenance and upkeep when it comes to painting every rock chip on the frame and oiling bare metal parts like the KDSS valve and the spare tire carrier.

The quest for 0 rust drove me a bit crazy when I first got the truck last year. You are 100% right about checking fasteners because that can be real time and money if there are corrosion issues, but if it's just the frame welds in the pictures above seems like an opportunity to negotiate for a discount more than anything else.
 
Mingus Dew said:
I have some rust on my cruiser that's been in South Florida its whole life. Nothing serious, but some light surface rust on certain welds and some exhaust bolts that are seized up. Hitch receiver and KDSS valve also had surface rust (now wire wheeled and painted).

I don't know. Maybe I'm wrong (I have very limited experience), but these things really like to rust and having a 100% rust free rig seems aspirational more than anything, even in the South. That or you have to be really on your s*** in terms of maintenance and upkeep when it comes to painting every rock chip on the frame and oiling bare metal parts like the KDSS valve and the spare tire carrier.

The quest for 0 rust drove me a bit crazy when I first got the truck last year. You are 100% right about checking fasteners because that can be real time and money if there are corrosion issues, but if it's just the frame welds in the pictures above seems like an opportunity to negotiate for a discount more than anything else.
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My good friend’s ~150k mile 13LX came from dfw area and is absolutely rust free. Mine was from Tennessee and would be also if not for my ski trips to Colorado and beyond multiple times most years.

I agree a little weld rust on the frame isn’t a show stopper.. that is how mine has ended up after the skiing. but IMO there’s enough corrosion on the above rig to be worried about inconvenient things like the LCA bushings/bolts.
 
I like the suggestion by @Sandroad to have a PPI completed. The vehicle is at a dealer in Colorado Springs. I’m looking into this on my own, but maybe someone reading this already knows of a reputable shop/individual to perform a PPI in the area? TIA
 
Will let others speak to local shops but if you come up empty Lemon Squad is an option.

Spare tire mechanism rusted as expected. Need to make sure that isn’t seized and the spare tire lowers.
 
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