Considering an 87 Pickup

[GLTHFJ60]

So I am a FJ60 guy, but I am thinking about buying a pickup because it's the right price and it gets really good gas mileage. Truck is in good condition, but has some problems like all of these trucks probably have.

So the major problems that would prevent it from getting an inspection. The horn doesn't work and the e-brake doesn't hold. The horn is probably an easy fix, but the e-brake is a concern. When I pull the handle out, I can feel the tension in the line, and my friend that was with me said that the cable was pulling tight all the way to the drum, but I couldn't get the handle to "latch" into the tense position. How far back do you have to pull the handle? Does the handle mechanism break often? Is it easy to fix?

The truck has 146k miles, a busted drivers side window mechanism, a small hole in the exhaust at a joint, what seems to be a small water leak in the bottom of the windshield, almost bald tires and pitted paint. I can fix the exhaust and window easily, and I don't care about the paint, but is a common place for the water to leak from the windshield, or are the rain gutters more common? Are there any easy fixes for the windshield gasket other than replacing it?

The truck seems to operate well. Sounds really good and has a bunch of new parts. I'm sorry for all of the stupid questions, but I want to buy something that will last at least a year and will be fun to drive until then. Will this truck last for me?

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

My guess on the e-brake is the levers at the rear wheels are rusted in place, you just need to take the rear brakes apart and free it up. I had a windshield leak and just siliconed it.... How much are they asking? Is it carbed or EFI?

 

[amgraham]

The horn problem 90% of the time is a worn out contact in the steering column. It is a brass pin with a spring and c-clip and it takes maybe 20 min to swap out (you do have to pull the steering wheel and column trim). The dealer normally stocks them for about $5.

On the e-brake it should pull out quite a ways. I'm not sure if you were trying to say that the ratchet mechanism wasn't working or it wasn't tensioning the brake or both. The ratchet mechanism is pretty simple, just stick your head under the dash and see how it should work. A brake inspection is always in order with a used vehicle and I think the other guy hit it that you will find the adjusters/arms froze up.

The windshields are prone to leaking. I would try to silicone it up good and if that doesn't work then have it professionally replaced.

Other than that, check the frame for any rust, especially around the rear spring mounts. Also, listen for any timing chain rattle as the guides are prone to breaking in the 22-R/RE motors. If it has been somewhat maintained and you keep it up it should last you awhile. I have 274K on my 87 22R-E 4Runner and 181K on my 88 22R-E pickup.

Good luck man!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Thanks guys. This guy wants 1500 for this truck, and has mild rust in the rear section of the frame, but it's not that bad. The engine sounds good, and the transmission feels good as well, but I'm going to have to think hard about it. The owner is being reluctant to let me drive it because it has no plates, but I'm not going to buy it unless I can drive it. We'll have to see.

Anything else I have to look for??

 

[tntoyota]

Is it carbed or EFI?

X2, In my experience cab motors wear (cylender walls) way more than EFI,

Say a carb motor with 180k is like an EFI with a 140k watch for the carb, hard (can be) to source, rebuild, and with age all the gas thats been through it, seals, if its ever blown a diafram, AGGHHH!!!!!!!!!!!



EFI, no problems.



Cant find carb? Weber, they been in buiz for years and wont go anywhere, they'll never not have a REbuild kit, and they have a good snorkle kit pretty cheap.









Put youre plates on it and go. ( )