Considering a 180k mile 2016 model for 15k, would you buy it?

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I have a 2015 and it's in the dealer getting the valley plate and timing cover resealed. Hoping this won't need to be done every 150k.

At least they can do the timing cover reseal with the engine in the truck, right? V6 its an engine out job.

Did you have oil hitting the floor?
 
I have a 2015 and it's in the dealer getting the valley plate and timing cover resealed. Hoping this won't need to be done every 150k.
If there's no abuse, chronic overheating and whatnot I cannot imagine it'll need done every 150k. Maybe a trip to a couple of Tundra forums would be a good idea to see what sort of cadence they would have (if any)? Though I imagine they are a little rougher with their trucks than we are. LOL
 
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If there's no abuse, chronic overheating and whatnot I cannot imagine it'll need done every 150k. Maybe a trip to a couple of Tundra forums would be a good idea to see what sort of cadence they would have (if any)? Though I imagine they are a little rougher with their trucks than we are. LOL
That's the cadence I saw on a few different forums for LS, GS, and Tundras. Tundra also reporting cam tower and valve cover.

The other thing I think I remember reading is a lot of this is down to the design of the V of the engine and how the heads, intake and block mate.

I am also wondering if reverting to something like dexcool with shorter intervals would help. But at some point it's just a matter of cycles, if there is a stress point.

Also explains why this is not seen on the RZ and TR engines. I am looking for a TR powered 3rd gen with a R151F manual transmission. That truck should run until the end of time itself.
 
I ended up passing on the gx. Seller did go down to 14,000, but, after shocks, fluid changes all around, possible worn suspension pieces and axles needing replaced along with transmission worries, I just couldn’t make it work in my head. I am nursing a broken arm so for at least the next few months I’d be paying someone to do the work. For the price I’d have invested in it when it was all said and done I could’ve just found one that didn’t need so much. Thanks all for the feedback!
 
I ended up passing on the gx. Seller did go down to 14,000, but, after shocks, fluid changes all around, possible worn suspension pieces and axles needing replaced along with transmission worries, I just couldn’t make it work in my head. I am nursing a broken arm so for at least the next few months I’d be paying someone to do the work. For the price I’d have invested in it when it was all said and done I could’ve just found one that didn’t need so much. Thanks all for the feedback!
I think that was a wise move. Find one with a better maintenance record, that's much more important that miles.
 
I think that was a wise move. Find one with a better maintenance record, that's much more important that miles.
Yup, unless you have the time, tools, space and just plain enjoy that kind of work, you're better off with one in better conditions for a wee bit more coin.
 
Not a bad idea to check for possible suspicions signs of a blown head gasket: check coolant level, bubbles in expansion tank, white exhaust smoke, running rough, scan for codes, and a long test drive with a live data scan tool to monitor ECT for consistency.

But I think a compression test is more than likely outside the scope of a PPI (too invasive). And it's more than likely fine anyway if all of the above checks out.
 
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Not a bad idea to check for possible suspicions signs of a blown head gasket: check coolant level, bubbles in expansion tank, white exhaust smoke, running rough, scan for codes, and a long test drive with a live data scan tool to monitor ECT for consistency.

But I think a compression test is more than likely outside the scope of a PPI (too invasive). And it's more than likely fine anyway if all of the above checks out.
Anytime one purchases a used vehicle, unless it's still under factory warranty, a full inspection should be done to include:
  1. belts
  2. hoses
  3. brakes
  4. ALL fluids
  5. ALL lights
  6. compression test
  7. bushings and control arms
  8. steering
  9. And??
A good mechanic should know exactly what all to check.
Then IF you purchase it, do a FULL maintenance to be your starting point for all maintenance's going forward.
 

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