I did the same thing on my Speed Air pump - short brass street L and a brass ball valve - just added a drilled hole and tie wire for safety so it doesn't drain itself without warning .
Sarge
Sarge
concrete pad for 60 gallon air compressor?
- Thread starter swelltimes
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- #22
Sarge and Rusty_TLC, great ideas, I'll do that too! Probably will run the break-in cycle, drain it once, then add that pipe and valve. Awesome!
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
Here's a trick to reduce the noise level, run the air intake outside. Probably 70% of the noise from a compressor comes from the air intake.
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- #24
@rusty_tlc , I'll have to take a look at that!
splitshot
Head cook, Bottle washer, and Peace keeper.
X2, I used Glad Hand grommets to insulate the vibration through a steel wall, just another option if plumbing through steel.
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- #26
@splitshot , great idea. I saw that in another thread of yours - will have to keep that in mind next time I need a clean pass through some metal.
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- #27
Yes it is.
The cheapest place I found to buy it is Northern Tool. Easy to install. I bought two complete kits and have air hose drops at each door of my shed plus two hose reels mounted above the main bays that I work out of.
The cheapest place I found to buy it is Northern Tool. Easy to install. I bought two complete kits and have air hose drops at each door of my shed plus two hose reels mounted above the main bays that I work out of.
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- #29
Made some progress this weekend in the shop, and am pretty close to having my compressor ready to go.
I ended up getting a precast pad of concrete, made to cover a part of a septic system or similar hole. $60 bucks, and just light enough to I could move it on my own. Got that placed on the dirt floor and leveled out.
Installed a shut-off valve to the tank, then the correct hardware to run a short rubber line to the air filter / regulator.
All that's left is to get a couple of spade connectors to install the power cord correctly, then borrow a hammer drill to install some anchors into the concrete pad. I drilled a hole in 3 hockey pucks for the vibration dampers that will go between the tank feet and concrete.
I ended up getting a precast pad of concrete, made to cover a part of a septic system or similar hole. $60 bucks, and just light enough to I could move it on my own. Got that placed on the dirt floor and leveled out.
Installed a shut-off valve to the tank, then the correct hardware to run a short rubber line to the air filter / regulator.
All that's left is to get a couple of spade connectors to install the power cord correctly, then borrow a hammer drill to install some anchors into the concrete pad. I drilled a hole in 3 hockey pucks for the vibration dampers that will go between the tank feet and concrete.
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- #30
Slow progress here. Borrowed a Hilti hammer drill from a buddy, wacked some holes in, and got the concrete anchors installed. Had to be careful with depth / distance to edge on the pad, but so far, so good. Have some buddies coming over to help me lift the compressor on to the pads later this week.
Vibration isolation is very important for a trouble free air system. Hard plumbing to compressors/dryers will haunt you after many hours of operation. Copper can "work harden" from prolonged exposure to even slight vibration resulting in failure. If you spend a little extra time and money you will not have to stop working to fix a leak.
As far as bolting compressors down, it depends on how smooth the unit runs. I have not had to bolt down my current compressor, but it does sit on vibration isolators on the floor without any evidence of "walking"
($7.00 ea. Zoro tools). The rubber hose connecting the compressor to the regulator and the two connecting the air dryer to the bypass manifold are simple sections of good quality (goodyear) air hose rated at 200 psi max working pressure. Barbed fitting and air hose clamps make the connections. A smaller section of hose connected to the bottom of the compressor to the auto dump ($30.00 eBay) facilitates the dump timer routing the dumped air via smaller copper line out through the wall for a quieter dump.
As far as bolting compressors down, it depends on how smooth the unit runs. I have not had to bolt down my current compressor, but it does sit on vibration isolators on the floor without any evidence of "walking"
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- #32
That is a fine looking set-up, @firestopper! I'll be routing my air drain from the bottom of the tank to outside to keep dust and debris from getting kicked up in the shop.
Thanks, routing auto dump to the outside make for a quiet and clean/dry shop. I can tell you on thing for sure, if your on the other side when it dump, it catches you by surprise. haha.
I recommend putting a ball valve in the dump system prior to the hose leading to the auto dump. This way you can replace the hose or auto dump valve without draining you tank. FWIW, the auto dump has been working for eight years without problem. The receptacle the auto dump and dryer are connected to is switched so no unplugging/plugging is necessary.
Good luck!
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- #34
OK, finally up and running! Some tweaks and additions to hoses / lines are planned down the line, but the compressor's going to make a lot of projects on my truck a lot easier.
Just looked into that kit from Northern Tool. Do you recommend getting the 3/4" version over the 1/2" one?
