Cold Starts

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

GTSSportCoupe

2LTE abuser
Joined
Mar 23, 2012
Threads
241
Messages
9,470
Location
Victoria, BC, Canada
Here is a a video of a morning -8C cold start a couple days ago using a single factory glow cycle. (block heater was NOT used this day). Little pos motor still has good compression from the looks of things.

Day after I decided to try my block heater. I don't use it much as Evans Coolant company doesn't recommend them for some reason with their coolant. Anyhow, block heater definitely puts out, as was melting ice off my hood in the morning at -8C the next day. Engine warmed up much faster of course. Usually just use it if I'm traveling to the interior and it gets really cold.

 
Last edited:
Wow, that’s a clean start. Nice. My old 12HT puffs the blues for a while if I don’t preheat.
I‘d use the Webasto for sure if I was heading out at -8. With preheat mine looks a lot like yours.
 
I had to start mine the other day when it was about -8 without any block heat, wasn't terrible, although there was certainly a lot more clattering from the engine than when I use the webasto :lol:

Mine always starts for 1 second then dies when it's really cold like that. Does that a couple times unless you're quick to tap the throttle.

I usually turn on the webasto about a half hour before I leave for work just so I have heat in the cab a little sooner. Just wish they made a remote fob for it.
 
They make a timer, but it was $400. Easier to put on my boots and walk out to flip the switch.
Or crawl over console and flip the switch.
 
They make a timer, but it was $400. Easier to put on my boots and walk out to flip the switch.
Or crawl over console and flip the switch.
Yeah it's way too expensive for what it is.

Plus I wouldn't be able to program it for a 4 on 4 off work schedule, so a simple remote on switch would be better.

I might rig something up with a remote relay if I get bored, but probably won't get to it.

I don't mind walking out to the truck to start it a half hour before I leave work, it's the 530am , jammies in the snow or rain I object to. :lol:
 
Yes, glow screens. Mine works ok on a wilson switch. The technique of hitting the throttle right at ignition
does help on the cold starts, bit of a timing thing
 
Mine is the exact same. Blip throttle. It’s piss poor. Webasto makes the truck possible to use up here in the winter.
 
The first morning I hopped in the diesel at -6 or so… it started well enough, but I started driving too soon. A couple blocks away I pulled out onto Quadra… as I got onto the road it felt like I was running out of fuel, but is started to have white smoke. I was limping back towards home and I wasn’t sure if it was going to die. It slowly started to run more smoothly and smoke less. After 3-4 blocks it would slowly accelerate. After a few more blocks it ran properly again.

I’m thinking I got going too quickly and flooded it? Any thoughts?

‘97 7.3 PSD
 
The first morning I hopped in the diesel at -6 or so… it started well enough, but I started driving too soon. A couple blocks away I pulled out onto Quadra… as I got onto the road it felt like I was running out of fuel, but is started to have white smoke. I was limping back towards home and I wasn’t sure if it was going to die. It slowly started to run more smoothly and smoke less. After 3-4 blocks it would slowly accelerate. After a few more blocks it ran properly again.

I’m thinking I got going too quickly and flooded it? Any thoughts?

‘97 7.3 PSD
Hmmm, when is the last time you filled? Summer diesel still? Not sure exactly what happened there, you're probably onto something with misfire for a bit. Just let it warm up a bit longer I guess.
 
-10 and I do 3 glow cycles on my BJ60. They are only 3 second glow cycles. Starts up fine with no accelerator. Although I have brand new Interstate batteries. My cranking speed is insanely slow. I might have to address my grounds???
 
The big thing i found is to scrub the corrosion from the mating surfaces between the bellhousing, nose cone and the nose cone to steel starter motor housing as it grounds threw the body of the starter to the aluminum nose cone and on to the bellhousing. When it’s corroded between the aluminum and steel it causes the starter to run slow or not turn at all. A aluminum oxide purple scrubby works well.
12553941-078E-4CD4-BD27-2556BA09724D.webp



Oh yeah and cold starts for a 12v 3b:

Without the glow controller system and 10.5v glow plugs is recommend 20 seconds.

Super glow system with 6v plugs will only glow for 3 seconds or so of full 12v then reduces voltage for another 15 seconds or so.




My super glow system used to work great years ago, now I just have a push button and 10.5v glow plugs on my high mileage, just under 500,000k bj60 still with 480psi compression. At -7 the other day it started up normally after a 20 second glow but then after another 20 seconds of running time it coughed a couple times and needed another bump of glow. The coldest I have ever started mine is -19 it needed several extra shots of glow time and was smoky and very grumpy for about 2 whole minutes. During the winter I almost always use the throttle cable to bump it up to about 1000 rpm for cold starts, roars like a jungle beast! the manual calls for extra throttle for all starts but I don’t bother.
 
Hmmm, when is the last time you filled? Summer diesel still? Not sure exactly what happened there, you're probably onto something with misfire for a bit. Just let it warm up a bit longer I guess.
I hadn't filled in a while... definitely a misfire for a a bit. Even had the check engine light on till it had smoothed out. I hadn't really let it warm up much. Six or seven years back I replaced the glow plug relay because it was cracked in half and not working. I've still got a new set of glow plugs in a drawer waiting to go in. I'm sure the new plugs would help... as would the low mileage injectors. The injectors and plugs are an ugly job that requires pulling the valve covers, seats, etc.. General recommendation is to pull the body or the engine. With an Ambulance I’ll struggle through… no way I’m gonna pull the body. The engine is also staying put… despite claims it can come out the front, no way I want to do that.

I’d rather be working on my Landcruiser than the Ambo. In the meantime I’ll just let the glow plugs do their thing and let it warm up for a couple minutes before expecting it to go when it’s below freezing.
 
One of the bigger issues is with clean/dirty oil and the HEUI system on the Fords. My 550 didn't get much more than 250 hours on an oil change if ever and needed to be plugged in, warmed up and kept running all day in the cold. Dirty oil is the worst thing for them. My other trucks all had espars in them on timers to cycle them on and off.
 
Good to know about Ford diesels... or in my case International built for Ford.
 
I had '96 Powerstroke 7.3 4x4 PU for quite a number of years, quite a number of years ago. I did like that truck. I'd regularly plug in the block heater below 0C just to keep the oil 'flow-ier'. Can attest to needing to keep the oil fresh with changes at 5000km. Also, they have a pesky issue with the wiring harness for passenger/left bank of engine passing over a rather hot area of the engine. Leads to the harness becoming brittle, cracking, and shorting - for some reason it starts to run rather poorly then.
 
I had '96 Powerstroke 7.3 4x4 PU for quite a number of years, quite a number of years ago. I did like that truck. I'd regularly plug in the block heater below 0C just to keep the oil 'flow-ier'. Can attest to needing to keep the oil fresh with changes at 5000km. Also, they have a pesky issue with the wiring harness for passenger/left bank of engine passing over a rather hot area of the engine. Leads to the harness becoming brittle, cracking, and shorting - for some reason it starts to run rather poorly then.
Once it was warmed up a bit the clanking and clattering went away and it ran properly again. At first it was behaving like I'd run out of fuel... I thought something in the fuel lines or such was causing a problem. The Fuel bowl heater was also broken when I replaced the filter and O-rings. I simply disconnected it to avoid a short in a pot of diesel.

One of these days I've got a newer fuel bowl to go in, and a new fuel pump. Unless it stops running the front third and axle rebuild for the 40 is way higher up my project list. Once I get the axle pulled out from under the shelf, I can begin to pick away at it when I make some spare time, and then build it up with the newer 3.70 third. Once it's all ready, it would be an afternoon job to install in in my 40. It'll be even faster If I already have new hard brake lines installed so that it's ready to bolt in and swap on the disc knuckles... I suppose even the knuckle bearings can be installed and ready for the knuckles. I know what I'll be doing January 2023.
 
@GTSSportCoupe I noticed in a previous post you made that you had installed injectors from a later model year. Is this cold start with the old or new style injectors?

Did you notice a difference with cold starts between the two styles?
 
@GTSSportCoupe I noticed in a previous post you made that you had installed injectors from a later model year. Is this cold start with the old or new style injectors?

Did you notice a difference with cold starts between the two styles?

Sorry for the delay. This cold start is with new injectors. But just as important for a good cold start is: engine compression, injection pump condition, glow system condition, and diesel leaks around primer or soft hose connections (if seeping diesel, it means air is getting in, and will cause missfire on startup).

I live at sea level, but found high elevation starts are a little less ideal (less air being compressed means less heat produce on compression stroke, so more possibility of missfire on cold start). I started the truck at -10C at 5700ft (Baldy Ski Mountain) recently and had some missfire smoke puffs before it cleaned up. Probably if I glowed twice (~15 sec) instead of once (~7 sec) it would have been clean though.
 
A bump on my hand throttle helps in all my cruisers so not to scare the environmentalists. So start up hits 1000 rpms.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom