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Are you able to time the engine? Almost sounds like your dizzy is off a tooth.

If the check connector doesn't idle down the engine when shorted then the issue is your tps.

Many of the issues sound like OX sensor.
 
pappy said:
Are you able to time the engine? Almost sounds like your dizzy is off a tooth.

If the check connector doesn't idle down the engine when shorted then the issue is your tps.

Many of the issues sound like OX sensor.
Click to expand...

Tps is good. I can short the connector with the truck idling down roughly 100 rpm.

Engine was timed at 5* with connector shorted.
 
liljlandon said:
Could I be one tooth off with the distributor and it still appear to time correctly?
Click to expand...

My experience is no. When I made that mistake I could get the engine to run, barely, but there was no way I could time it ... which was my clue.
 
For a 22re timing; I always bring the engine to TDC, assuming the chain is aligned properly in regards to the cam and crank. Then turn the crank to 5* and then insert the dizzy with the match marks at 12 oclock. The hold down bolt will fall about dead center of the adjustment range and the rotor will point at #1. Then you short TE1 and E1 and fine tune it again to 5*. It should need little to no adjustment if you did it right.

I have seen so many engines where the dizzy is inserted at TDC and then they try and adjust ignition timing by moving the dizzy to one extreme or the other. That will allow the engine to run, bet it is never right and it usually falls on it's face.

You should snap a pic of where your hold down bolt on the dizzy is currently. I can tell whether or not it's timed right. Once your timing is correct, then you can accurately diagnosis the rest...
 
snobdds said:
For a 22re timing; I always bring the engine to TDC, assuming the chain is aligned properly in regards to the cam and crank. Then turn the crank to 5* and then insert the dizzy with the match marks at 12 oclock. The hold down bolt will fall about dead center of the adjustment range and the rotor will point at #1. Then you short TE1 and E1 and fine tune it again to 5*. It should need little to no adjustment if you did it right. I have seen so many engines where the dizzy is inserted at TDC and then they try and adjust ignition timing by moving the dizzy to one extreme or the other. That will allow the engine to run, bet it is never right and it usually falls on it's face. You should snap a pic of where your hold down bolt on the dizzy is currently. I can tell whether or not it's timed right. Once your timing is correct, then you can accurately diagnosis the rest...
Click to expand...

I like your technique, I usually stab the dizzy at TDC then adjust from there , next time I'll use your method, see if it works better.
 
Okay, 5* for 22res. This is an 84 block and 84 head that the 22re intake bolted up to. Should it be 0* instead?
 
That is a good question.

I really can't say for sure.

Never pondered that before, however I think the biggest difference between the two set ups is the fuel injection vs carb and relating accessories.

If it was me I would run 5* with the fuel injection set-up.
 
snobdds said:
That is a good question.

I really can't say for sure.

Never pondered that before, however I think the biggest difference between the two set ups is the fuel injection vs carb and relating accessories.

If it was me I would run 5* with the fuel injection set-up.
Click to expand...

I called a local guy who said run 5* for efi and 0* for carb regardless of year.
 
I did the supra afm upgrade today, found it for 25.99 I pull it, seems to run much much better in the higher rpms now than ever, but still wont idle. For anything. It starts for about 10 seconds, dies, and smells flooded. I checked the cold start injector, its delivering fuel. Sensors ohm out correctly. Injectors are good, wiring is perfect... im sure its a small detail I'm overlooking, ugh!
 
liljlandon said:
Iacv makes no difference plugged in or unplugged and blocked at both the intake and the air tube.
Click to expand...

Assuming you have it timed correctly...

This sounds like something is up with your TPS. Also, is the throttle plate closing all the way?

If I remember correctly, Supra AFM's do make it run a little more on the rich side. I think you can lean it out by taking the cover off and taking a few clicks off.
 
snobdds said:
Assuming you have it timed correctly...

This sounds like something is up with your TPS. Also, is the throttle plate closing all the way?

If I remember correctly, Supra AFM's do make it run a little more on the rich side. I think you can lean it out by taking the cover off and taking a few clicks off.
Click to expand...

Is this right?

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uploadfromtaptalk1394918622460.webp
 
You're cam timing looks good. You're ignition timing is off. See how your hold down bolt is all the way up. It should be about dead center on the adjustment range. See my post above to see how to set the ignition timing.
 
Solved! Borrowed another ECU and it runs with no codes. Timed at 5*.

35110- no run, codes 21 and 52.
35030- no run, code 14 (old style)
35040- run, code 12 (old style)
35020- run, no codes.

So I've had 35020 in there and ran it for an hour or so last night with no issues!
 
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