I was finally able to start my 40 as part of my frame off restomod project. Sadly, when I press the clutch, I get bad rapid ticking sound. At first, I couldn't shift into any gear, but after some pedal and slave cylinder push rod adjustments, I can get it into gear and drive it. But I still get grinding when trying to shift into reverse. I replaced the clutch while I had the engine out, and I'm worried that i messed up the throw-out bearing installation.
Specs:
9/75 US market FJ40
Small block chevy crate engine
Advance Adapters Ranger Overdrive between the SBC and stock 4 speed
I'm using the FJ40 clutch master and slave, with an adapter from Advance Adapters that mounts the slave to the SBC bellhousing. I'm using a cast iron clutch fork.
Here's a video of the sound. It's unpleasant to say the least. In the video, I say I can't get it into gear. I later made some adjustments and now I can shift. But it still grinds a bit getting into reverse. I basically have no more adjustment in the slave push rod.
Here's a pic of the slave/etc:
Here's a pic inside the bellhousing, looking down the clutch fork to the throw-out bearing. I pulled back the dust boot on the clutch fork- tough to get a good picture. Probably obvious, but the clutch plate is on the left side.
Here's what the throw-out bearing looked like on tear down, to give you a sense for how the TO bearing should look. It worked fine before I took it apart, but I decided to replace the clutch and TO bearing while I had it out as preventative maintenance.
Any help you guys can provide will be deeply appreciated. I'm kind of freaking out.
Specs:
9/75 US market FJ40
Small block chevy crate engine
Advance Adapters Ranger Overdrive between the SBC and stock 4 speed
I'm using the FJ40 clutch master and slave, with an adapter from Advance Adapters that mounts the slave to the SBC bellhousing. I'm using a cast iron clutch fork.
Here's a video of the sound. It's unpleasant to say the least. In the video, I say I can't get it into gear. I later made some adjustments and now I can shift. But it still grinds a bit getting into reverse. I basically have no more adjustment in the slave push rod.
Here's a pic of the slave/etc:
Here's a pic inside the bellhousing, looking down the clutch fork to the throw-out bearing. I pulled back the dust boot on the clutch fork- tough to get a good picture. Probably obvious, but the clutch plate is on the left side.
Here's what the throw-out bearing looked like on tear down, to give you a sense for how the TO bearing should look. It worked fine before I took it apart, but I decided to replace the clutch and TO bearing while I had it out as preventative maintenance.
Any help you guys can provide will be deeply appreciated. I'm kind of freaking out.