Clutch Master Cylinder 51...rebuild or replace (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter sanantonio67fj40
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I got mine from JTOutfitters. I like the stainless braided line. Are you looking for factory original?
- Thread starter
- #3
Not necessarily. Just want one that works and will bolt right up. I'm getting withdrawals not driving it. I'm not the greatest mechanic, but want to get this done.
Interesting - that looks just like the brake master cyl on my 66 FJ 40. What year is your 40??
LBM
LBM
- Thread starter
- #5
It is a 1967.
- Thread starter
- #6
It looks identical to my brake master also.
Interesting and more interesting I wonder if someone changed out the clutch MC at one time with a Brake MC because they couldn't get the correct one? I suppose it would work in a pinch. Did you look at the Brake MC and see if it has the same numbers. There are a lot of clutch and brake MC's available. You can get a new one for about the same $ as a kit - if you can even get a kit for one that old. Try Specter Off Road. "Factory Toyota MC's are not cheap. Good luck.
Yup, looks like a brake MC.
- Thread starter
- #9
Thank you for the information. I greatly appreciate it.
- Thread starter
- #11
Do you happen to know what part number I need for the correct clutch master and slave?
- Thread starter
- #12
I am guessing I will need a new hard line as mine is bent properly for the clutch master (or brake master, as you pointed out) that connects on the end.
It's really fairly simple to go to the Specter Off Road site @ http://www.sor.com. In the upper left is a search box and put in clutch master cyl. It opens to a box where you can click on clutch and it opens to a break down where you can see the master cyl #1. Click on that and it opens to show a list where it shows a Kit (#2) #018-01-kit and it shows a master/slave/hose kit /tube for $189 that fits 1958 to 1970 FJ40's. You can click to add to cart and complete the order or you can call them direct.
It does not effect this "kit" because the cost is the same for all but if you are planning on ordering other parts over the course of the year you can buy into the "club" for $50 or so to get a discount. Just have to decide if you will order more then the cost to join the club or not to see if it is worth while.
Specter has been around for quite awhile and generally speaking there service is pretty good. I have ordered a fair amount from them with good success. I have also had at least one issue with them that never got resolved and I swore off them only to go back a year or so later and order a bunch of stuff.
You can find all the parts at other places on the web for about the same $. If it was me and I needed the whole shebang - as it sounds like you do I'd just go to them and get-er-done. If they don't seem like a fit you can send them back for a refund.
LBM
It does not effect this "kit" because the cost is the same for all but if you are planning on ordering other parts over the course of the year you can buy into the "club" for $50 or so to get a discount. Just have to decide if you will order more then the cost to join the club or not to see if it is worth while.
Specter has been around for quite awhile and generally speaking there service is pretty good. I have ordered a fair amount from them with good success. I have also had at least one issue with them that never got resolved and I swore off them only to go back a year or so later and order a bunch of stuff.
You can find all the parts at other places on the web for about the same $. If it was me and I needed the whole shebang - as it sounds like you do I'd just go to them and get-er-done. If they don't seem like a fit you can send them back for a refund.
LBM
dohcdelsol93
snoogans
Just had the clutch master cylinder on my 67 fj40 die. It's @ 120 commercial price at Orileys for a new one.
I installed a 3/4 bore Wilwood clutch master cylinder (i'm using a Howe pull slave and an 86 f150 clutch/pressure plate) but it has just as much if not more throw than the OEM fj40 clutch master.
It also ran me approx 65 shipped.
required me to drill one hole above the stock master cylinder mounting hole, i reused the lower hole and i had to machine off (with a grinder) about a 1/16th inch or less material on the top 1/8th inch if the master cylinder foot to fit flush.
Took all of 30 min to install, drill and adapt.
It doesn't look stock but it's very compact and works well.
I installed a 3/4 bore Wilwood clutch master cylinder (i'm using a Howe pull slave and an 86 f150 clutch/pressure plate) but it has just as much if not more throw than the OEM fj40 clutch master.
It also ran me approx 65 shipped.
required me to drill one hole above the stock master cylinder mounting hole, i reused the lower hole and i had to machine off (with a grinder) about a 1/16th inch or less material on the top 1/8th inch if the master cylinder foot to fit flush.
Took all of 30 min to install, drill and adapt.
It doesn't look stock but it's very compact and works well.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #16
I ordered the clutch master and slave kit from JTOutfitters and attempted to put it in today, a few stitches later from a busted knuckle (pic is pre stitches) and I'm bummed. I couldn't free the front nut on the slave no matter what I tried and I was at it for about 3 hours. Any suggestions? I soaked it in WD40 but I'm not sure what to hold onto to break it loose, or if it's a revere thread. Anyone know? Ugh...
dohcdelsol93
snoogans
lock it in a vice and use an impact gun. That was the only way i could get mine loose.
using some spray lube (good stuff not WD40) can also help.
using some spray lube (good stuff not WD40) can also help.
You may also carefully use heat to try to get it loose.
- Thread starter
- #19
Which part would you recommend locking in a vice? The nut on the outside or the one on the other side of the shifter linkage bracket? Also, even though it's a dumb question, which way do I turn the nut? Clockwise or counterclockwise? I can't get it it hedge either way. Thank you for your help!
- Thread starter
- #20
I used Liquid Wrench, not WD40 as I said earlier. Sorry.
