how to
So I am going to replace my clutch this weekend and I dont have an fsm can anyone post up (Scan?) the section on clutch install/removal. Will a haynes or chiltons get me through the proceedure as a last resort? and finally do I have to drain the engine oil to do the rear main seal?
Thanks Mudders,
John.
Ok. it is not that bad if you are handy. I just did my clutch last week.
If I forget anything, someone will point it out quickly, or so I hope.
Start with the shifters. Take the knobs and boots off and then the floor plate under that if you can. I don't have carpet so I can remove that easily. Now you will have a dust cover on the trans. shifter. Lift it up and you have a silver disk. If you push it down and turn it counterclockwise, it will release the shifter arm. The transfer shifter can be removed after taking the 17mm nut off and then removing the cotter pin. While your'e in there, unplug both of the electrical connectors, and make sure that the wires are free from the retainers. Go underneath and remove the speedometer cable and tie it up. There is also a ground cable that bolts to the t-case. take it off and start the bolt back in the hole so you don't loose it.
Be sure to chock your truck and set the e brake. You did that already right?
Remove your driveshafts next. I was able to do this with the transmission and tc in Neutral, but you may need to lock them up occasionally to free a stuck bolt. For the front shaft, there is a slot in the crossmember for you to put your wrench through, in order to remove the bolts on the tc flange. On my truck, it was necessary to remove both driveshafts completely. Now is a great time to uncrust your u joints and purge new grease through them.
Go ahead and take the inspection plate off of the bellhousing. There are the obvious bolts, and there are two more on the top, facing the engine. A haynes manual will tell you to remove the clutch slave, but it is not necessary.
Now jack up your transmission and secure it to the jack. I used a trasmission adaptor for my floor jack, but there are several alternatives. Some folks use a cherry picker to lower the trans down from the cab. Others use ratchet straps, but I ain't sure about that, cause that trans/tcase combo is heavy. Make sure it it cannot roll off of your jack or whatever you are using because it will try.
When you are satisfied that thte trans/tc cannot come loose from the jack, you will remove the crossmember(cm) under the transmission. I took the four top bolts out of the cm, and then took the four out of the transmission. Then just jack the transmission up, and lift the cm off of the frame mounts. You may be able to do this differently, but my trans mount's studs are stripped, so i can not dissasemble the rubber mount.
After the crossmember is out, if your motor mounts are good, you can lover the transmission a pretty good bit. The engine will come to rest on the firewall and then the transmission will come down no farther. Time to take out the four 17mm bolts that attach the transmission to the bellhousing. The bellhousing does not come off. when you have them out, you will need to remove the transmission. It needs to go backwards approx. 7+ inches. If you do it as above, it will be moving back and downward because it is tilted. I had to pry it back the first 1/2" and then it came off freely.
Now you can see the clutch, pressure plate, and release bearing.
Do yourself a favor and get your new pilot bearing out. Try to slip it onto the end of your transmission shaft. If it will not go on freely and fully, take some emery paper and clean the shaft until the bearing will slip onto it. This will save you a ton of hassle when you are putting it back.
Take the Release bearing and clutch fork out now. I just removed the spring on the clutch fork, and the whole deal slipped out for the back. Pay attention to how the bearing is attached to the fork. It uses two spring clips, so keep those handy. Use a brass drift to separate the release bearing from its base, and put the new bearing back exactly as the old one was installed. Lightly grease the face of the release bearing.
Now remove your pressure plate. Put your alignment tool into the hole that the transmission came out of, and press it in until it stops in the pilot bearing. It will support the clutch and pressure plate as you unbolt them. Unbolt the pressure plate and remove it as well as the clutch disk. The flywheel has dowels that locate the pressure plate, so gently pry the pp off of the flywheel.
The only thing left to take out is the pilot bearing. It is now exposed in the end of the crankshaft. The best way to remove it is a pilot bearing puller and a slide hammer. You can also use hydraulic pressure to remove this bearing. Fill the bearing and the cavity behind it absolutely full of grease. Find yourself a dowel or rod that just barely fits inside the bearing's center hole. Insert it on top of the grease pack and hit the rod with a hammer. When it compresses the grease, the grease will push the bearing outward. Top off the grease in the hole, and repeat until the bearing is out. Put your new bearing back in there after you clean up that huge grease mess. Tap it in with a socket that fits the bearing's outer race.
Now is the time to remove that flywheel and have it turned. Mine was blued a bit and it did not require much material to be removed to correct it. It set me back $45, but it looked great when I got it back, and it works great too. BTW, if you have it turned, make sure you get your dowels back. that caused me a nice little hangup.
Start putting it all back together, and be careful about your torque specs.
You just took it off, so I know you can put it back.
Good luck. You can email me for a phone # if you need tech support
. c dot ware at yahoo dot com
Chris
