Clutch Inspection and rear main bearing R&R

[GeoW5]

All,

I finally dropped the clutch today. According to the FSM you only have to have .03mm whereas I was measuring 1.56mm. What I don’t know is the value for a new clutch in that is this clutch half way through its life? I also noticed the bolt heads on the pressure plate lever arms are pretty thin; is that normal? Lastly, to get the rear main seal out it looks like a circular clamp affair. Am I to assume to loosen both sides and the halves split enought for it to be able to be pried out? Is the torque spec listed to re-tighten this clamp.

Please look the pics over and let me know what you all thin. Thanks for the help.

George

 

[1911]

All,

I finally dropped the clutch today. According to the FSM you only have to have .03mm whereas I was measuring 1.56mm. What I don’t know is the value for a new clutch in that is this clutch half way through its life?

On my trucks, I replace the clutch with a new one any time the transmission is off - not worth doing it again in a few years just because there is still some thickness on the friction material left.

... to get the rear main seal out it looks like a circular clamp affair. Am I to assume to loosen both sides and the halves split enought for it to be able to be pried out? Is the torque spec listed to re-tighten this clamp.

Not sure what clamp you are speaking of. The rear main (crankshaft) oil seal is just an interference fit, but the best way to replace it without having to dig the old one out and potentially damage the new one going in is to remove the oil pan and take the rear-most main bearing cap off. Then the new seal will go on easily without buggering or distorting anything. Your oil pan could probably benefit from a new gasket anyway.

Please look the pics over and let me know what you all thin. Thanks for the help.

Didn't see any photos -

 

[GeoW5]