Clutch/brake problem related?

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BDA130

BDA130

10 Year
Joined
Feb 12, 2014
Threads
10
Messages
205
Location
Houston, TX
Gents,

I have a lot to catch up on here and really appreciate the help I've gotten on threads and through PMs. I'll post a build thread soon as in the last two months I've put on new OME springs/shackles and a turbo on my 86' BJ70. Lots more the learn.

Now for a new problem.

First day after Turbo, I had to drive home from the shop ~20 mins with just the down pipe which probably heated up stuff that wasn't meant to be heated. On one brake application, the brakes were extremely "squishy" and and didn't brake till near full travel. I immediately pulled to the side to check the lines and I assumed the brake fluid was hot and that's why they were't performing. Drove slow on back roads, exhaust fitted next day, no more brake problems.

Today, going up a slight incline in 4th gear, vehicle loses power and RPM stay ~2800, I downshift to third, no power, RPM still ~3k. I pull off. Vehicle stopped and ON, clutch depresses all the way, I can shift into any gear, but transmission does not engage. Clutch returns normally.

During the turbo install process I also know I knocked the cap off the brake fluid res. and it did not seem to seat very tightly. Should this seal be air tight? Perhaps air got it during the install or when the exhaust was heating that area up?

It's a 50k km transmission, and before I look at rebuilding the clutch I want to make sure it's not either the master/slave cylinder or a bleed problem.

Am I on the right track? Bottom line, clutch goes to the floor and returns; I can shift to any gear while engine running or off, but no engagement of the transmission.

Edit: 5 speed manual H55F.
 
BDA130 said:
Should this seal be air tight?
Click to expand...

no ..

Did you check movement on the clutch fork ..?

It could be as " simple " as the clutch bearing or pressure plate.. if hydraulics are working ok .. then you need to go in ..
 
If you can shift whether running or not, then your clutch isn't engaging. if it was lost under load, which it appears it was, then it most likely is a bad clutch, but odd that it would go all at once.

Try starting it in gear with the clutch out. If the vehicle moves with the starter, you clutch is engaged. If not, then probably need to go in to check the disc. Hydraulic failure or fork failure would leave the clutch engaged, not disengaged, which is what you described.

Any odor from a burning clutch when in gear?
 
Update: I can creep forward very slowly in first gear. Could i have an engine power problem? I just turbocharged. What could go to take away 99% of the engines power. Possibly something in the drive train assuming clutch is functioning?
 
Checking tranny fluid:

Opened plug and oil poured out. I opened the plug halfway up (pic attached I got the right plug yes? Svc manual pic is not that clear) and probably a quart of oil came out. Checked the transfer case and it was barely wet. I was under impression that of that seal was bad it would be the transfer case full of oil. Does this offer any hints?

uploadfromtaptalk1407351905640.webp
uploadfromtaptalk1407351926342.webp
 
when you say the truck moves very slowly only in first, does the truck make the revolutions but doesn't move (clutch is slipping), or do the RPMs never increase. At idle the truck should be moving forward about 5mph in first gear.
 
2mbb,

Truck creeps forward in first and slowly gains momentum in about 20 yds to 5 mph. This is clutch out at 1000 rpm idle. Step on gas pedal, engine rpm increase normally with just the slightest increase in forward speed.
 
Sorry for the rambling post but after talking to some wiser friends than I and doing some more research, I'm pretty sure it's a worn clutch disk. I had originally thought the clutch and brakes shared the same res. I'm discounting slave/masters because I have the capability to shift into any gear and a tiny amount of power is being transferred to the transmission. I'm ordering the following parts based on Kurts recommendation (thanks Kurt!)

31210COVER ASSY, CLUTCH
31210-36100

31250DISC ASSY, CLUTCH
31250-60090

33311WBEARING (FOR INPUT SHAFT)
90363-12002

31231ABEARING, BALL(FOR CLUTCH RELEASE HUB)
90363-45002


They guys at Toyota gave me this part # for the Rear Main Seal 90080-31021.

Anybody have any input on these part numbers or can think of anything else I should do when I have the transmission down? I'm kind of concerned about my previous post with the excess oil in the transmission vs. the transfer case. Should I just fill them to spec and check in a few 100 kms?

What manual would detail this procedure and system? It's not in the 3b or H55F manuals...

Thanks again guys. Here's a quick picture of when she was running!

Cruiser1.webp
 
Hi BDA130,

Since you will have to drop the flywheel to gain access to the rear seal, I would go ahead and grind (resurface) the flywheel so your clutch starts with a new fresh surface. Also, get a clutch aligning tool (plastic insert to align clutch, pressure plate, and pilot bearing). Specter Off-Road sells them relatively inexpensive. Other vendors might have it too.

Regarding the oil issue with the transmission and transfer case, there is a seal that is located in the front cover of the transfer case (front plate of the transfer case that bolts to the transmission) and people experiences either the transfer case pumping oil into the transmission (which seems to be your case) or the transmission draining the oil to the transfer case (which you would see oil pouring out of the transfer case breather). That seal is probably damaged in your 70.

I guess that you have two options:

1. Get a by-pass hose that connects the fill-hole of the transmission to the fill-hole of the transfer case (very common for people to do) if you don't want to open the transmission - transfer case assembly or,
2. Separate transmission and transfer case and replace the damaged seal

I have posted some photos on my BJ40 thread of what you will see when you drop the transmission and transfer case. I can post them here if that would help, but it is pretty straight forward.

Hope this helps. Keep us posted and good luck.

-Alberto

P.S. That is a very nice looking BJ70!
 
Went ahead and ordered the whole kit Specter. Thanks for the heads up. I think I will replace the seal between the xfer and transmission and see if fluid still transfers.

I found the Chassis Manual. Holy smokes, it all makes sense when I can see a picture! That's the only way I could grasp airplane systems. Thanks for all the advice, goal is to drop the transmission this weekend and rebuild kit should arrive Monday.

Thanks man! While she's down I can fit the snorkel and finish up my boost/EGT gauges. I have a lot to write up and will try to get to that soon.

I'll say quickly for the two days I could drive post-Turbo, whole new vehicle man, ZERO smoke up here at 5k', not exactly "sporty" ha but I got everything I wanted. Thanks D42!
 
I went with Safari. Yeah it's a pain though it will be a nice little setup. Are you familiar with the 12v power source that comes off of the cable bundle that plugs into the stereo? I'm not sure if it uses an actual converter, or just a resistor... but that's what I tapped my pyro into and seems to work fine. I used the ground in the glove box though I need to find a better one as I get interference when the blinkers are on. I put in 24v bulbs and am going to connect them to the same power as the inclinometer bulbs which has an on/off switch on the panel. Eventually I'll get one of those fancy solar converters and get a real 12v source.
 
Flywheel us actually not bad at all but getting it machined today. Last thing I did was get the flywheel off and I'm at about 7 hours in working solo. Hope I can get it back together faster than that ha.
 
image.webp
Better option than my effort...
I lost all drive power during a gear change so I pulled the transmission expecting to find a worn clutch.
Should have known I couldn't be that lucky, clutch was fine but the rear main shaft bearing cover had an odd looking bulge in it.
I stripped the box and found this...
 
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