Clearance for 35's and 2.5" Lift

[Brav]

I got my new 35s on (Toyo MT 315/75R16), 16x7.5 zero offset wheels with 1.5" spacers. The fitment was pretty great with my 285s, but now poke out a bit with the 315s. When I flex, its hitting the flares slightly, and some of inner fender liner. It seems I have plenty of room to move inboard, but the smallest spacer I can find is 1.0", giving me a half inch of extra clearance on the outside.. which just may be enough.

I haven't been able to get full stuff yet, as it gets hung up on fenders. But it seems I have 2" plus of room on the inside of each fender (front and rear). Am I right that 1.5" spacers on zero-offset wheels is too much?

Also, it seems my Dobinsons VTs are over-worked, as the top 5 coils are practically touching. And they are noisy as hell clinking down rougher roads. Not sure I have the old version or not, I bought them in 2021. Front lift = 23.0 Right, 23.25L from axle to bottom of fender.

 

[Brav]

More pics

Front stuffed vs ride height. At droop they don't come apart much. Maybe my shock is too short to utilize the VTs

 

[OffRoadScott]

Looks like you have the stock bump stops. I would lengthen the bump stops to limit up travel and last resort trim the flares.

 

[Brav]

Looks like you have the stock bump stops. I would lengthen the bump stops to limit up travel and last resort trim the flares.

I have then ready for the front. But would like to get the last 2-3" of travel out of my front shocks if possible.

 

[AgentOrange]

So for the springs, I believe that the upper tightly grouped coils are to help keep the coil seated when flexed. Mine on a 3.5" lift did that. Noise is hard to say. I've seen some that the coils didn't get the isolators back in. Mine were always quiet, but I bought new isolators. No clue if that's the noise you're hearing or not.

For your wheel offset, I'd say there's two options as clean as the rest of your rig is. 1, go to 1" spacers, but that may require trimming of the wheel studs depending on what the mating surface of that wheel looks like. Option 2, trim the inner portion of the flares a little. I know I have seen some people on here do it nicely and it looks good. Bonus option, turn into an animal like me and cut it all off Sheet metal is in the way of partying.

 

[OffRoadScott]

I have then ready for the front. But would like to get the last 2-3" of travel out of my front shocks if possible.

Getting the last few inches of travel could be an issue, you do not want to bottom out your shocks. Binding of the springs will limit up travel too possibly.

 

[Brav]

So for the springs, I believe that the upper tightly grouped coils are to help keep the coil seated when flexed. Mine on a 3.5" lift did that. Noise is hard to say. I've seen some that the coils didn't get the isolators back in. Mine were always quiet, but I bought new isolators. No clue if that's the noise you're hearing or not.

For your wheel offset, I'd say there's two options as clean as the rest of your rig is. 1, go to 1" spacers, but that may require trimming of the wheel studs depending on what the mating surface of that wheel looks like. Option 2, trim the inner portion of the flares a little. I know I have seen some people on here do it nicely and it looks good. Bonus option, turn into an animal like me and cut it all off Sheet metal is in the way of partying.

Thanks. Will order some 1" spacers and see if I get lucky. I don't have a problem cutting inner flare/inner metal liner if need be.

 

[jonheld]

OEM rims have 4.5" backspacing. You're going to want 4" BS with no spacers to stuff properly. They will clear the plastic and the rears might rub slightly on the frame rails.
I've never liked the idea of lowering the bump stops to limit flex. If your tires don't rub you can fit bigger tires.

 

[Shoredreamer]

If you’re rubbing like that in a shop, you’ll rub much more out in real world driving scenarios and rip those clean flares off, ask me how I know haha. Without knowing what shocks you have, but assuming you have something longer than stock, you’re gonna want to address the bump stop spacing, not to limit flex or prevent flare damage, but to prevent bottoming out of the shock itself. Once you adjust bumps to match shock length, then look at where you’re at with rubbing. I ran -25 offset with low lift and 35s with long shocks and had to do some minor flare trimming, and I definitely had to lower my bump stops, in the rear especially because of the longer compressed length shock. Axle location can play a part too. Centering the axle via adjustable panhard and adjustable control arms and caster add factors to how much or little you rub too.

 

[77mustard40]

I'm on the Gen 1 VT-146(7) and the IMS 4-5" shocks with stock rims and 315's, I have no wheel travel issues at all so I'm thinking the wheels are the issue. Yes the springs squeak a little but the performance has been super.

 

[CruiserDave]

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I've read you can use these to silence the spring noises.

 

[AN470]

I don't have any personal experience (yet), but been reading up on threads here trying deciding between 35vs37. I think what others said about the spacers is correct. 3.5-4.0 backspace is what you want, depending on the width of the wheel. Are these Toyota OEM steel wheels?

 

[Brav]

The wheels are Fifteen52 Analog. Look like steelies.

I put the 1" spacers on, and it helped a lot. It may be possible to run no spacer with these wheels. I gained 2" + of flex without cutting anything yet. Need to center both axles a little bit. I did a month ago. and seems to have moved a bit. Either way I may add bump stops just to be safe. I still have 2" to go on both shocks (fortunately or unfortunately). Will test no spacers next week and check again, then start cutting.

 

[80t0ylc]

I got my new 35s on (Toyo MT 315/75R16), 16x7.5 zero offset wheels with 1.5" spacers. The fitment was pretty great with my 285s, but now poke out a bit with the 315s. When I flex, its hitting the flares slightly, and some of inner fender liner. It seems I have plenty of room to move inboard, but the smallest spacer I can find is 1.0", giving me a half inch of extra clearance on the outside.. which just may be enough.

I haven't been able to get full stuff yet, as it gets hung up on fenders. But it seems I have 2" plus of room on the inside of each fender (front and rear). Am I right that 1.5" spacers on zero-offset wheels is too much?

Also, it seems my Dobinsons VTs are over-worked, as the top 5 coils are practically touching. And they are noisy as hell clinking down rougher roads. Not sure I have the old version or not, I bought them in 2021. Front lift = 23.0 Right, 23.25L from axle to bottom of fender.

View attachment 3652892View attachment 3652893View attachment 3652894View attachment 3652895View attachment 3652896

I run the Toyo AT II Extreme 315/75/16 on the OEM ‘94 Alloy wheels (8” width) which I believe to have 0 offset with OME 2.5” lift and have had no problems with stuff and turns running the stock flares. No wheel spacers involved either. IMHO, zero offset and no spacers is your best bet for the 35’s with 2.5” lift. Strangely enough, that’s stock except tires and lift.

 

[AgentOrange]

That all looks a lot better. Now just check that you can turn without chewing up flairs or those front mudflaps while flexed like that and set your bumpstops

 

[Brav]

I run the Toyo AT II Extreme 315/75/16 on the OEM ‘94 Alloy wheels (8” width) which I believe to have 0 offset with OME 2.5” lift and have had no problems with stuff and turns running the stock flares. No wheel spacers involved either. IMHO, zero offset and no spacers is your best bet for the 35’s with 2.5” lift. Strangely enough, that’s stock except tires and lift.

Thanks. I will give it a whirl

 

[Kabanstva]

Sell those wheels and go back to stock alloys. Or what's the issue with just removing the wheel spacers altogether?

 

[Kabanstva]

So for the springs, I believe that the upper tightly grouped coils are to help keep the coil seated when flexed. Mine on a 3.5" lift did that. Noise is hard to say. I've seen some that the coils didn't get the isolators back in. Mine were always quiet, but I bought new isolators. No clue if that's the noise you're hearing or not.

For your wheel offset, I'd say there's two options as clean as the rest of your rig is. 1, go to 1" spacers, but that may require trimming of the wheel studs depending on what the mating surface of that wheel looks like. Option 2, trim the inner portion of the flares a little. I know I have seen some people on here do it nicely and it looks good. Bonus option, turn into an animal like me and cut it all off Sheet metal is in the way of partying.

coil isolators? where are you getting those? any pics? my VT coils never came with that.

 

[Shoredreamer]

Tein coil isolators. Can find them on eBay. They do help with rattling.

 

[80t0ylc]

Thanks. I will give it a whirl

Sell those wheels and go back to stock alloys. Or what's the issue with just removing the wheel spacers altogether?

@Brav , I believe you said your steel wheels are also zero offset. They may work, but are 1/2” narrower than the OEM alloys. Toyo website recommends 8” minimum width for 315/75/16 and that’s what the alloys are. Bump stops are next to keep ‘em from rubbing near the top of wheel wells on bumps at speed carrying a load. That’s the only rubbing mine have done. Lose the spacers and you should be fine, like @Kabanstva suggested.

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