Clear hard plastic for wind fairing?

[FullyLitLED]

I am planning to run a gamiviti flat rack on my 100 series. I want to mount an LED light bar on the rack. I plan to make a fairing out of aluminum or hard plastic but want the fairing to completely match the roof line(thus preserving some MPG). I want to however, make the fairing so it is in front of the LED bar and has a transparent portion which vent out light without ruining the light pattern of the light bar. I do not know if that is possible but I am in the designing stage right now so any advice on materials would be helpful. Having the fairing composed of mainly clear plastic with a protective film will allow me to have the LED bar protected and have a fairing all at once...help please

 

[Mace]

look up speedglass.

 

[zebrabeefj40]

I think you are looking for Lexan. Same stuff used for race car windows and other impact resistant apps. I'm guessing that is the same stuff that Mace is suggesting by another name.

Nick

 

[Mace]

Not quite, Speedglass is a polycarbonate with a scratch resistant coating.

Percy's Polycarbonate Windows - JEGS

 

[zebrabeefj40]

I see the difference now. Lexan is a brand name for polycarbonate without the scratch resistant coating...

Nick

 

[FullyLitLED]

Polycarbonate looks attractive after doing some searching! If I place a light bar behind it, will the light bar's light be diffused in a different direction? Couldn't find a straight answer! I pulled the trigger on a gamiviti flat rack so it should be here by next week

 

[Mace]

No. most of the lenses that are used on lights are polycarbonate

 

[elephantsCBR]

But then most lens are perpendicular to the projection. His will be at an angle. If I remember it still wouldn't matter.

Thanks Cody Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

 

[FullyLitLED]

No. most of the lenses that are used on lights are polycarbonate

But then most lens are perpendicular to the projection. His will be at an angle. If I remember it still wouldn't matter.

Thanks Cody Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

Thanks guys! I just ordered some material up from the link a couple posts above! Now have to figure out how to mount it to the metal!

 

[elephantsCBR]

Hey. I'd try drilling the holes on a scrap piece. The first time I drilled on that stuff. Crack clear to other side. So get your technique down first

Thanks Cody Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

 

[cody c]

You have to go very easy on the drilling.

What happens is the cutting edge of the bit catches and twists, which instead of cutting material, twists the plastic outwards cracking it.

I also seem to remember that as it heats up it melts the cut plastic abit. So, as soon as you finish drilling run a window scraper over the hole to remove the material and prevent it from melting/sticking to the material under it.

I cant remember the best technique, maybe it was lots of pilot bits or drill really slow or fast with very little pressure or something.

 

[handcannon]

It takes a special grind/angle on drill bits to keep from breaking the plastic. It's been too long since I had the correct info on this so I don't remember just what was needed. I'm sure that with a bit of searching you could find the info on the internet.

Don

 

[scottm]

We use a fair amount of polycarb (Lexan, Makrolon,...) and acrylic at work, cut and bend and drill it regularly. I mostly get acrylic laser cut, and polycarb waterjetted. Acrylic doesn't waterjet well, and polycarb doesn't laser.

I drill and tap polycarb, it is softer and very machinable, while acrylic is like working with glass, fairly brittle but stronger and harder to scratch. Both can be bent or molded when hot, polycarb can be bent cold. I bend 1/4" polycarb cold in the sheet metal brake, and shear it in the power shear and notcher.

Acrylic would be stronger hold up better to scratching, but you have to be carefull about preventing stress at the fasteners. Polycarb would be easier to fab, and if you clear film it or buy it coated it will stay clear.

Cutting fluids can cause acrylic to craze and look bad, test them on a sample if you go there.

I pay around $120 per 4x8' sheet of 1/4" polycarb, a little more for acrylic. Good luck with the project.

 

[FullyLitLED]

Ended up using this, cost me about $68 for a 48" x 6" cut, hope it holds up, need to fab a mount now

http://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/cut_to_size_plastic/polycarbonate_sheets_ar/517

 

[Slowerthanu]

Ended up using this, cost me about $68 for a 48" x 6" cut, hope it holds up, need to fab a mount now

http://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/cut_to_size_plastic/polycarbonate_sheets_ar/517

I'm thinking this may be the new windscreen for the fj40 since I rolled it.