Clarification on a brake job - easy questions I'm guessing

[CarcaineProblems]

Well I'm going to tackle my first brake job in the next day or two, as soon as the parts come in from C-Dan. I was going to get a FSM, but its a couple weeks out and I really can't wait, so I went out and bought a Chilton manual, what a piece of junk that is.

I've got new pads (80 and 100) and new rotors on the way. Also something else C-Dan said I'd need, but I can't remember what the heck it was (sorry)

I've done a lot of research but I've found conflicting advice - could someone clarify a few things for me?

1. Is it a 52mm or 54mm axle nut socket that I need?
2. Are there any 'sizes' to the snap ring pliers or is it just 1 size does it all?
3. When repacking the bearings up front, I've found a few people saying I need to take the rotors to a shop and have them "pressed on" - what is this all about? I live a ways from town so the less trips the better. (I do have Beo's list of tools from a previous thread)

I really hate to ask this, but is there any way I can get just the brake pages from the FSM? I plan on buying the FSM b/c I'll be doing the birf job this spring, but my brakes pulsate terribly and they make a grinding \ rubbing sound in the back so I gotta get it done ASAP.


Thanks for your help, this forum is probably the most informational of all the car forums I belong too.

Thanks!
Brett

 

[concretejungle]

I'll try to help.

1. I'm pretty sure it's 54 mm.
2. For the most part, it's one size fits all. I'm sure there are some huge snap rings out there that require an "industrial strength" snap ring pliers, but for what you need just go pick up a regular pair from the store.
3. The way i "pressed" mine in was to take a 6 inch piece of 2x4 and gently hammer the new bearings in. Just take your time and tap,tap,tap and move the board around so that the bearings go in flush and straight. Hard to describe but i know you would say "oh, yea, that's what you mean" kind of thing.

Hope that helps a little.

edit: just trying to make this clear as mud for ya, the bearings are in the rotor. So to get them out just do the opposite of putting them in. I don't think you can use a 2x4 though since it won't fit. I can't remember what i used, a brass drift i think to punch them out the back of the old rotor. THen take your new rotor, lay it on the table and (after repacking the bearings with grease) hammer them into the new rotor.

 

[elmariachi]

Well I'm going to tackle my first brake job in the next day or two, as soon as the parts come in from C-Dan. I was going to get a FSM, but its a couple weeks out and I really can't wait, so I went out and bought a Chilton manual, what a piece of junk that is.

I've got new pads (80 and 100) and new rotors on the way. Also something else C-Dan said I'd need, but I can't remember what the heck it was (sorry)

I've done a lot of research but I've found conflicting advice - could someone clarify a few things for me?

1. Is it a 52mm or 54mm axle nut socket that I need?
2. Are there any 'sizes' to the snap ring pliers or is it just 1 size does it all?
3. When repacking the bearings up front, I've found a few people saying I need to take the rotors to a shop and have them "pressed on" - what is this all about? I live a ways from town so the less trips the better. (I do have Beo's list of tools from a previous thread)

Thanks!
Brett

The races are what need to be pressed in, not the bearings. If you don't have a brass drift (a big brass punch with a flat end) or if you have never done this and don't have a book, you are well-advised to have someone show you how or you need to take it to a shop. Otherwise, clean the hub up completely and bang the old races out. Using the old race on top of the new one you can tap on it to drive the new one in part way. Then move the old one out of the way (before it gets stuck in on top of the new one) and start tapping the new one in evenly around its circumference with the brass drift and a hammer. Never hit a race with anything steel. You'll nee to whack it pretty good on all sides and make sure each race gets seated on all sides. Also make sure that if your brass punch sacrifices any brass splinters that you clean that up before packing the hub with grease. Put the big rear bearing in (after packing it) and then install the rear oil seal, which holds it in. Don't put the smaller front bearing in until you are ready to mount it on the spindle.

I can't help you on the FSM because I am at work, but you definitely need the pages.

Jim

 

[robbie]

If the bearings/ races are good all you will need is the grease and seal. No need to remove the races. As for the rotor, if the hub is clean and not rusted the old rotor will just need some taping after you remove the 6 bolts. then clean the hub matting surfaces with scotch brite and the rotors will slip right on the hub. no need to press the rotor on. The bolts will then need to be torqued to 54 FTLBs. Later robbie

 

[elmariachi]

If the bearings/ races are good all you will need is the grease and seal. No need to remove the races. As for the rotor, if the hub is clean and not rusted the old rotor will just need some taping after you remove the 6 bolts. then clean the hub matting surfaces with scotch brite and the rotors will slip right on the hub. no need to press the rotor on. The bolts will then need to be torqued to 54 FTLBs. Later robbie

And if you don't know, by "races good" Robbie means that the inner surfaces of the races are smooth and show no signs of pitting or discoloration, especially blue or brown. I blasted my hubs and POR-15'd them and the new rotors literally dropped in place. Man they look nifty.

Jim

 

[landtank]

I did an axle job on a 91 a few months back and thought I'd add something here that I saw then.

When I pulled the front hubs off I noticed that the area around the inner race was beaten to hell. I wasn't sure I'd get the new grease seal back in it was so bad.

What I'm guessing is that the PO did his own rotor swap by placing the rotor on some blocks with the hub facing down and DROVE the hub off the rotor.

This is backwards!!!! You want to block up the hub while it is facing up and DRIVE off the rotor. The rotor is garbage and that's what wants to be hit!

 

[tucker74]

1. Is it a 52mm or 54mm axle nut socket that I need?

54mm

2. Are there any 'sizes' to the snap ring pliers or is it just 1 size does it all?

Any should work - they usually have a "slide" bolt to adjust for smaller/bigger rings (at least my Craftsman does).

3. When repacking the bearings up front, I've found a few people saying I need to take the rotors to a shop and have them "pressed on" - what is this all about? I live a ways from town so the less trips the better. (I do have Beo's list of tools from a previous thread)

Look at Robbies reply on the rotor ... if it's the bearing races, brass drift to remove and use old (reversed) to start - then drift to seat.

Good luck!

Tucker

 

[concretejungle]

Sorry about that, i should have clarified. I usually just speak of bearings and race as one, since you really can't have one without the other. My bad.

 

[elmariachi]

When I pulled the front hubs off I noticed that the area around the inner race was beaten to hell. I wasn't sure I'd get the new grease seal back in it was so bad.

What I'm guessing is that the PO did his own rotor swap by placing the rotor on some blocks with the hub facing down and DROVE the hub off the rotor.

This is backwards!!!! You want to block up the hub while it is facing up and DRIVE off the rotor. The rotor is garbage and that's what wants to be hit!

And if you need to save the rotor, soak the hub-to-rotor area with penetrating oil first. Then use two small prybars and a hammer and come in from the side between the rotor and the hub, separating them whack by whack.

Jim