City racer Fuji carb

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Carb work isn't for everyone. A friend rebuilt the carb on his jeep a long time ago. It would only run at full throttle. I showed him how to check for vacuum leaks with a can of WD-40. He had some gasket midlevel turned around and it wouldn't seal correctly because of some little protrusion sticking down. Soon as we turned the gasket around and put it back together it ran fine. He had spent many hours trying to figure out what was wrong - took like 20 minutes to fix once I showed him the problem.
 
Echoing what @Racer65 posted, there are way too many cases where a carburetor is the victim, not the culprit. Latest case in point.

New customer comes in three weeks ago with his 1971 stock carburetor that was in a box when he bought the truck two months ago (He’s got a Weber on the truck) I rebuild the stock carburetor, and of course he’s interested in having me install it. I give him the standard speech about base lining the engine before doing a swap, and he made an appointment to bring the truck by this morning for a valve adjustment and tune up.

I put a vacuum gauge on the truck and was hard pressed to see 14”. This is a strong indicator that putting on another carb is not going to change things. Pull the valve cover (Note: all the valves are quiet) and sure enough, 9 out of 12 are too tight. I ran a ‘before’ compression test and two cylinders were poor (105 and 70) . Did the adjustment and rechecked the two low cylinders. Now they’re 150 and 130.😊

What do you know! Now the engine is pulling 20” of vacuum and the Weber is running flawlessly. Carb swap is now pushed way down the list (it’s got MAJOR rear end and transfer case problems)

Moral of the story: always baseline the engine first if you can.
 
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Carb work isn't for everyone. A friend rebuilt the carb on his jeep a long time ago. It would only run at full throttle. I showed him how to check for vacuum leaks with a can of WD-40. He had some gasket midlevel turned around and it wouldn't seal correctly because of some little protrusion sticking down. Soon as we turned the gasket around and put it back together it ran fine. He had spent many hours trying to figure out what was wrong - took like 20 minutes to fix once I showed him the problem.
Yah I hear ya, I have rebuilt a couple Rochester quadrajets for my olds hurst(wish I didn’t sell them). so I think this one will be fairly simple.





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The Aisan carb is not difficult at all to tear down and rebuild.
My question is, when is a carb too old and worn to rebuild where you should just buy a new Japanese after market one?
 
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I'd say that a carburetor is toast when there is too much corrosion in the internal passages, or the primary or secondary throttle shafts create a vacuum leak. A rebuild kit is necessary when gaskets get fused to the casting (not sure why we don't assemble them with oil?), or the pump plunger boot is torn, the rubbery pump plunger itself is worn-out, or the original leather pump plunger is solid with varnish (as in my case), or the secondary or AAP ('75) diaphrams are leaking. Otherwise, a carburetor-rebuild is just cleaning, and checking that things are in specification.

No one is making a new Choke Breaker for their rebuild kits? Both of mine are slight vacuum leaks. There is even a provision (torsion spring and slotted-linkage connection) for it on the end of the Aisan 21100-61012, the Fuji 'made-in-Japan,' and china-carb(s) choke-butterfly spindle/shafts, even though these carbs don't employ a Choke Breaker? The Choke Breaker is your lifesaver at the mechanic, or for anyone borrowing your keys who has little to no manual-choke experience. As, the choke button on the dash is basically operated either all-the-way-in, or all-the-way-out with engine vacuum itself adjusting the choke-butterfly to sit partly open just after the starter gets the engine running.
 
Thinking about buying this carb instead of dealing with my carb that has been sitting in a box 10+ years. That’s how I bought the truck. I have read it’s a good carb. Just wanted to see if I need anything else with it or will it just bolt right up and adjust? Engine has not run in 10+ years and will get a new fuel tank also.

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Hey Fj80Oregon, did you end up going with the city racer carb. The one I order for my 84’ 60 showed up today. Before I installed it, I figured I would comb threads. Being an 84’ I don’t think I need it do anything with linkage. I’m disappointed to hear others have had issues.
 
Hey Fj80Oregon, did you end up going with the city racer carb. The one I order for my 84’ 60 showed up today. Before I installed it, I figured I would comb threads. Being an 84’ I don’t think I need it do anything with linkage. I’m disappointed to hear others have had issues.
I Did not.
 

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