City Racer Brake Booster Fit

[appleburger]

Having a hell of a time getting the City Racer brake booster to go on ('94). The stock one had JUST enough clearance to wiggle past the intake manifold on the way out. Looking closer at the City Racer it has a slightly different shape that puts the shoulder that interferes with the intake mani even more in the way than stock. I've had it in and out 10 times so far and not getting any closer. I'm starting to think this thing isn't going in.

Anyone else run into this? Obviously these have successfully been installed before. Wondering if they changed design.

 

[Malleus]

Try loosening the engine mount bolts and lifting the DS. That should give you enough room to get it in. Unless you want to remove the intakes.

It doesn't really matter if the booster profile has changed, does it? You have it in hand and have to get it in. Unless you're going to send it back, I mean.

 

[reklund5]

remove the clevis from the other side if you haven't already.. It'll give you some additional wiggle room as well.

 

[appleburger]

Removed the clevis but didn't help. Looks like I'm jacking up the engine.

 

[Malleus]

FWIW, I've never been able to remove a booster without doing something to get it by the intakes. And they've all been OEM.

I'm working on my DD now and removing the upper/lower intakes halves, TB and valve cover for 250k maintenace and cleaning, while I'm (unplanned) replacing an booster. The two R&Rs just happened to coincide.

My booster was about 5-mm from clearing the firewall; I couldn't get the studs clear no matter how I held my mouth.

 

[appleburger]

FWIW, I've never been able to remove a booster without doing something to get it by the intakes. And they've all been OEM.

I'm working on my DD now and removing the upper/lower intakes halves, TB and valve cover for 250k maintenace and cleaning, while I'm (unplanned) replacing an booster. The two R&Rs just happened to coincide.

My booster was about 5-mm from clearing the firewall; I couldn't get the studs clear no matter how I held my mouth.

I guess I just took for granted how easy it was on my 3FE '92.

Finally got it bolted on. Just trying to thread the clevis back on now that the brake pedal is in the way. Realizing I should have threaded it back on before snugging everything else down when I still have some wiggle room. Got frustrated and came inside to Mud. Realizing now I should be able to just start the engine and use the new booster to make it easy to depress the rod by hand and create clearance to thread the clevis back on.

Trying to maneuver under that dash as a 6'2" dude sucks. Short kings check your privilege.

 

[reklund5]

I guess I just took for granted how easy it was on my 3FE '92.

Finally got it bolted on. Just trying to thread the clevis back on now that the brake pedal is in the way. Realizing I should have threaded it back on before snugging everything else down when I still have some wiggle room. Got frustrated and came inside to Mud. Realizing now I should be able to just start the engine and use the new booster to make it easy to depress the rod by hand and create clearance to thread the clevis back on.

Trying to maneuver under that dash as a 6'2" dude sucks. Short kings check your privilege.

Pull the seat and all the lower dash trim. thats what my 6'2" 275lb ass has to do in order to do anything under the dash!

I'm cheating my booster replacement. I'm doing it while EVERYTHING is out of the way...

 

[appleburger]

Job done. A few final thoughts for future reference.

- Just jack up the engine. Don't waste your time trying to avoid it. 17mm, undo both sides as far as you can without taking the nut off, raise the driver's side up.
- Unbolt your power steering reservoir before you jack the engine up. I put too much tension on my line and created a leak.
- Don't mess with removing the clevis. The clearance you need is to the manifold. I didn't find the clevis to make a difference in that. Getting the clevis back on with the booster installed was a pain.

 

[devo]

This is great info, but I can’t figure out what the clevis is that you refer to?

 

[NorthWA]

Thanks for sharing. I have a booster from city racer for my 96. I’ve been dreading putting it in so it’s still on the shelf.

 

[appleburger]

This is great info, but I can’t figure out what the clevis is that you refer to?

It what attaches your brake pedal to the pushrod. The pushrod just ends in threads. The clevis screws on and has ears that straddle the brake pedal arm and accepts the pin.

 

[MrMacdugal]

Way to go on this. I can understand your frustration. I've taken out a few 80 series boosters in rigs I parted out. Each time I recall thinking that I'm sure glad I dont have to put one back in, because that would be frustrating. They come out like a beeyotch.
Go Team.

 

[joxeale]

Damn it sucks that you have to mess with the engine mounts to swap the friggin brake booster. If you were to get the OEM branded one (seiken), would that one slide in without messing with the mounts? I think those mounts have been what I've hated doing the most on the cruiser

 

[appleburger]

Damn it sucks that you have to mess with the engine mounts to swap the friggin brake booster. If you were to get the OEM branded one (seiken), would that one slide in without messing with the mounts? I think those mounts have been what I've hated doing the most on the cruiser

From the video I watched, it seems like the Seiken is still tight but gets in with some persistent wiggling.

 

[77mustard40]

From the video I watched, it seems like the Seiken is still tight but gets in with some persistent wiggling.

Replaced mine last year with a Seiken and deleted the ABS and LSPV at the same time, it was a tight mother getting the old one out and new one in. Seems like there was a certain way I wiggled on it where it suddenly went in, I used a friend on the inside of the firewall to help guide it in and we finally got it. We didn't have to mess with the engine mounts.

 

[appleburger]

Happy to report that I put over 1000 miles on it this weekend and it worked just as it should on and off road.