Cigarette Lighter probs

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Pulled out my cigarette lighter from the dash since it hasn't worked in many years. Reviewed some search posts on cigarette problems, and one in particular mentioned blowing the 15A fuse (3rd down left side on schematic) this is assoc w/ Cig. The post described how the ignition switch may be a contributor. I cleaned the whole mechanism of carbon build up and put back together. Nada. But I thought i heard a little click/pop from the fuse box. No smell. If I wanted to inspect the ignition switch, where/how would I access that? Any other ideas? No other dash issues.
 
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If I recall, the cigarette lighter socket doesn't need the key in the ignition to have power. I'm not sure right now because mine isn't working either. But when it did, it had power all the time. Key in or out (I think).

My socket eventually just fried and no male plug would work in it. Maybe just replace it would be the best solution.
 

HemiAlex

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Where does the cig lighter take power from? If I wanted to rewire mine, where would I follow it to?
 
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Here's a sequence of action: with truck OFF, connected the cigarette lighter assembly into the dash connector. No lighter or anything in the socket, it's empty. Turned key to power ON, and immediately the 15A fuse pops. While the Cig assembly was out, I cleaned it up, and removed the fiber washer by the hex nut at the rear of the socket. I read that was a fix for some people. Any ideas?
 
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There's a short in the 12V+ wire from the fuse to the cig lighter.
Remove the fuse.
Place one lead of a volt/ohm meter (set to DCV) on one side of the fuse holder contact, and the other probe to shiny body metal ground. Do that on the other contact too. One of the fuse contacts will be hot 12V+. Ignore that one.

Connect the meter lead to the non-12v+ fuse contact and the other lead to shiny metal body ground. Set the meter to continuity so that it will beep when there is continuity between the two leads. It will beep if there's a short in that wire. Will be silent if not.

Trace the wire if possible to find any suspicious burnt or frayed insulation.
If you can't do that or don't want to, just rewire the cig lighter socket with new wire & new fuse.
 
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Ideally, I'd like to swap it out for a USB port(s) to plug in phones, etc, but also for possibly powering smaller air compressors.
 
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There's a short in the 12V+ wire from the fuse to the cig lighter.
Remove the fuse.
Place one lead of a volt/ohm meter (set to DCV) on one side of the fuse holder contact, and the other probe to shiny body metal ground. Do that on the other contact too. One of the fuse contacts will be hot 12V+. Ignore that one.

Connect the meter lead to the non-12v+ fuse contact and the other lead to shiny metal body ground. Set the meter to continuity so that it will beep when there is continuity between the two leads. It will beep if there's a short in that wire. Will be silent if not.

Trace the wire if possible to find any suspicious burnt or frayed insulation.
If you can't do that or don't want to, just rewire the cig lighter socket with new wire & new fuse.
Difficult to trace the wire back to the fuse. It's wrapped up and covered in a firm plyable tube thing and disappears back into the dash. I'm still a novice w/ the multimeter, so I'll keep studying that.
 
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The cig lighter is only an unswitched 12v socket. Personally if I couldn't see any obvious problems with the wires, id just rewire it (with a fuse).
 
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The cig lighter is only an unswitched 12v socket. Personally if I couldn't see any obvious problems with the wires, id just rewire it (with a fuse).
OK, rewire the main red power wire that connects to the rear of the socket? I can do that, but when you say (with a fuse) does that mean the main 15A in the fuse box, or is there one on the socket assembly?
 
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New fuse wired in line with the 12v+ wire. Start over. Run a 12 gauge wire inside a split loom protector all the way to the battery. Install the fuse close to the battery.

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gregnash

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What @Output Shaft said... and the black stuff you are referring too is called split loom (see his post above mine). Used to protect multiple lines in a heavier gauge plastic that is made to keep a somewhat rigid shape.
 

Spike Strip

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I made a simple shelf/bracket that bolted to the fender in the engine compartment. It holds the ARB air pump for locker and the fuse block and some relays.
 
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Here's one way to install a waterproof box (Pelican 1150) for a fuse block enclosure in the engine compartment. No moisture gets to the contacts. No corrosion. No bracket needed.
Held in place by four bolts through the fender with nylon risers to clear obstructions. Thick foam strip under one side to support the box above the oem wiring harness. All cars that have OEM fuse blocks in the engine compartment always house the fuse block in a waterproof box.

There's enough room to mount FIVE relays in the box too. Perfect spot for headlight wiring harness relays.

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Last edited:
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Difficult to trace the wire back to the fuse. It's wrapped up and covered in a firm plyable tube thing and disappears back into the dash. I'm still a novice w/ the multimeter, so I'll keep studying that.
So after reading up on multimeters... followed your directions- one side of the empty fuse slot read a steady 12.3, and the other side nada. So keeping the lead on the side reading 0, other lead to the ground, set to Continuity-- No beep. So, no short? If no short, would a bum cigarette lighter be the culprit, and not some frayed wire buried in the dash?
 
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