Thank you I will be reinforcing the roof as well. The motor swap was a total PITA!!! But I filled her with fluids today and...... When the fuel started flowin she fired right up super pumped to have that chore behind me. On to the flatbed and moving the axle back. View attachment 1040943
The silicone job is kinda covered by the insulation now and I didn't get a pic before. I basically silicone'd the entire frame to the fiberglass.took quite a few clamps seems to make a huge difference and it straightened the shell out nicely.
The silicone job is kinda covered by the insulation now and I didn't get a pic before. I basically silicone'd the entire frame to the fiberglass.took quite a few clamps seems to make a huge difference and it straightened the shell out nicely.
Really that is pretty interesting. so do you mean just that clear or white silicone II you could get out like Home Depot or Lowes? and then you just clocked it between the outside of the square tubing frame and the inside of the fiberglass shell?
Bro, when you get back to Arizona, please post up some pictures, I would love see your rig so far, and especially the roof supports, we're exactly are you talking? The actual pop top roof, or the upper rail of the actual chinook framing?
Im talking about the rail not the actual pop top roof-- although this area could be done much better than how it came from the factory. The lip around the bottom end is supported by thin wall c-channel all the way around. This is welded to the square tube which has a bend to make the right angle. This angle will not hold up over time and/or if you put some additional weight on the roof. IM adding solar panels and mine was already slightly inward.
Was just informed of this build by @scrapdaddy (thanks a lot BTW, now I have another section to follow ).
I've got a '78 I've been working on. It's going to stay original as it is my MIL's, and not an expedition rig.
I ended up doing the same thing Re connection of fiberglass to the frame, and used Sikkaflex and clamps. Had the windows out, which as you said, makes it way easier.
The roof was sagging quite a bit, so I sawzalled the roof-rail support open and milled a piece of wood that fit the entire length of the U-shaped channel (it was just three pieces of thin wood made into a rail, hollow inside). Did that on each side. I ended up using 3/4 EMT conduit for ribs. I put in 4 total. I found that 1" PVC threaded
caps fit nice and tight over the EMT, so I used those as the end holders for the EMT, and screwed them into the roof rail (which now is solid wood). It all seems very snug, but I've been working in isolation, so let me know what other roof fixes are out there!