New to the LC...I have an 80 series 146K miles...looking for a mechanic or someone with LC experience that can help out with my brake issues...soft pedal...replaced pads and MC. I have a vacuum bleeder from Griots Garage. Never had any problems bleeding. Cant figure it out. I did bleed the LPSV. I thought about replacing the MC with a 100 series MC. Is this possible? Who do you guys use in the area? I live in the West Chicago/Wheaton/Naperville area. Thanks...
Chicago area LC mechanic (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter mystican
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Some people like to turn the ignition to the on position or actually run the motor to have the ABS module part of the bleeding process.
Did you change any other parts? Did you do a brake in procedure for the pads? You might just have to wait until the pads seat.
Did you change any other parts? Did you do a brake in procedure for the pads? You might just have to wait until the pads seat.
Did you bench bleed the master?
Did you replace the parts to address the problem or was the problem a result of the parts replacement?
Did you replace the parts to address the problem or was the problem a result of the parts replacement?
- Thread starter
- #4
Thanks for the help. I have turned the LC on and bled it. I also did it turned off. No difference. The MC is a reman AISIN and changed out by POwner. I think he replaced the MC bc of the soft pedal. I also looked and he changed the pads all the way around. Rotors look old, but no burn spots or uneven vibrations when braking, so I dont think I need to turn the rotors. I am going to rebleed everything and pull the caliper pins and actually look at the new brake pads and the piston. I did perform a bedding procedure around the area with small frequent stops. Maybe I should pull the MC and either replace it or rebleed it? Would a 100 series MC work? Thanks again for all of your help.
when you pump up the pedal and hold it, does the pedal slowly drop? or stay 100% firm? If former, MC is the best place to start.
On a weird note, if your sick of going in circles. Make sure your wheel bearings are tight. I have seen loose wheel bearings allow the rotors to move to a bit and push the pads back into the caliper enough that the first pump or two feel soft as the stroke is spent pushing the pads back to the rotor.
On a weird note, if your sick of going in circles. Make sure your wheel bearings are tight. I have seen loose wheel bearings allow the rotors to move to a bit and push the pads back into the caliper enough that the first pump or two feel soft as the stroke is spent pushing the pads back to the rotor.
Seen rotors warped enough to do that too, but usually the violent shaking when braking is a give away.
Yet another thread full of actual straight talk & tech
WTF is this place coming to!????
WTF is this place coming to!????
hahahaha John said pump
tonyota said:
It's a club.
It's tech day.
Well, whatever it is....I don't like it
Don't worry. It's past. No more tech until next year's tech day.
- Thread starter
- #13
Sorry guys if this was not the tech forum, but I will post on 80s tech then. I was more looking at finding a local LC backyard mechanic with some experience working on the LC. Who do you guys use? Any local toyota dealers that know what they are doing? I live closest to Toyota of Naperville?
BTW, I am going to look at everything again. I think a rebleed of the MC is in order. update soon.
BTW, I am going to look at everything again. I think a rebleed of the MC is in order. update soon.
Everyone I know does it themselves.
I'm done with side work myself.
I don't live in your area, so I'm no help
Even if I did live in your area, I'm usually no help
I'm pretty much worthless
I'm totally ok with that
Even if I did live in your area, I'm usually no help
I'm pretty much worthless
I'm totally ok with that
Me either
I miss Tony.
Tony who?