It would be nice if someone can reference a table showing how much a given clutch must be compressed to fully disengage. I think this might be called the clutch “throw”. I suspect a “low profile” clutch requires less “throw”, but it might mean that the overall height is less. If the latter is the case, a “low profile” clutch might not work any different than what we have been using. Rather, it would just affect the length of our slave cylinder rod, and the starting point of where the clutch will begin to compress. Without knowing the “throw” of our clutch and how much travel our hydraulic clutch release system will provide, we can never be certain that our system will work satisfactorily.
Like many of you, I have been battling clutch adjustment problems for the past 18 years. It’s been livable, but not ideal. The clutch has now worn enough that a replacement is needed. But how do I buy a clutch that will work better?
For our given combination of (a) master cylinder, (b) slave cylinder, and (c) clutch fork we are able to compress the clutch only so much. For example, I have a 1976 Toyota master cylinder and slave cylinder and a Chevy cast iron clutch fork. I can only guess what clutch is installed and that is on the basis of having a part number from the previous owner. My combination can compress the clutch 0.541 in.
· Throw for my particular clutch: 0.540” (Note: I found this number on the internet somewhere??)
· Slave cylinder travel: 1.125” (Note: I measured this on my specific slave cylinder rod.)
· Clutch fork ratio: 2.08 (Note: I found this ratio somewhere on the internet.)
· Therefore, the clutch can move only 1.125”/2.08 = 0.541” (Note: Explains why my clutch adjustment has always been so tricky.)
We need to know the “throw” for any clutch we are considering and then compare that with the amount of travel we are able to achieve with our hydraulic system.
As for me, my solution might be to use the same clutch and go to an older Toyota master cylinder with a larger bore so that I can move the slave cylinder rod further. I would prefer finding a clutch requiring less “throw”.
So…. does anyone have access to a table or chart showing the “throw” for various clutches? It would be helpful to all of us with Chevy conversions.
Thanks in advance.
Like many of you, I have been battling clutch adjustment problems for the past 18 years. It’s been livable, but not ideal. The clutch has now worn enough that a replacement is needed. But how do I buy a clutch that will work better?
For our given combination of (a) master cylinder, (b) slave cylinder, and (c) clutch fork we are able to compress the clutch only so much. For example, I have a 1976 Toyota master cylinder and slave cylinder and a Chevy cast iron clutch fork. I can only guess what clutch is installed and that is on the basis of having a part number from the previous owner. My combination can compress the clutch 0.541 in.
· Throw for my particular clutch: 0.540” (Note: I found this number on the internet somewhere??)
· Slave cylinder travel: 1.125” (Note: I measured this on my specific slave cylinder rod.)
· Clutch fork ratio: 2.08 (Note: I found this ratio somewhere on the internet.)
· Therefore, the clutch can move only 1.125”/2.08 = 0.541” (Note: Explains why my clutch adjustment has always been so tricky.)
We need to know the “throw” for any clutch we are considering and then compare that with the amount of travel we are able to achieve with our hydraulic system.
As for me, my solution might be to use the same clutch and go to an older Toyota master cylinder with a larger bore so that I can move the slave cylinder rod further. I would prefer finding a clutch requiring less “throw”.
So…. does anyone have access to a table or chart showing the “throw” for various clutches? It would be helpful to all of us with Chevy conversions.
Thanks in advance.
